1.025
5 NO3
0.04 PO4
8.8 Alk
410 calcium
1440 mag
Probably will stop with 25% changes next week and resume 2.5 gallon changes though 5 gallon changes makes things super simple.
Those stats look good what is your ph and size of your tank ?
Biocube 29. at some point will move to a 40 breeder, and as I sit here now, probably find someone with 2 prime 16 HDās and trade them for my Hydra 26 HD or just buy 2 new ones and sell the hydra outright.
I think your headed down the right track. Just keep up those parameters and making sure as the algea dies the nutrients that rise are removed before new algea can use it to bounce back. I found in the smaller tanks this is the case for me. If you get a sump with the 40 that can help solve many issues since you have more space to develope a good nitrient export system.
The 40 will have a 20 long sump. Still working out those details. Not being setup anytime soon.
This weeks testsā¦
1.025
7.0 dkh
400 calcium
1400 mag
8 NO3
.02 PO4
I think i am going to start doing 2.5 gallon changes, though 5 gallon changes are so much easier to measure and remove.
should i stay with 5 gallon water changes? I worry about driving the nutrients too low, but perhaps I should start feeding every day? I currently feed every other to every 3rd day.
Your numbers look good except for dkh I would aim at 8-9 with your current no3 and po4 is a little low for your no3, I would aim for .04- .06. If you raise po4 remember you will have to dose no3 at the same time. when you raise one the other tends to drop. till you get that perfect balance. That is also just what I would do. In reality the real number I would be nervous of the most is dkh being 7, you wonāt kill anything but growth will be minimized and 1 point less torches tend to give you problems.
I like small water changes if possible, the bigger the change in a small tank the more things that will fluctuate. Stability is key in every aspect of this hobby.
thanks. i am feeding every day to bring up the PO4 a touch. Rather not dose PO4 since iām so good at elevating it haha.
Itās official, we are moving. Up to Hunt at Louvierās, and close on 11/30.
Now, Iām starting my planning and the first order of business is how to move this tank with minimal stress on the inhabitants. The biggest wicket I am having is with the RODI system because Iām not entirely sure what I can hook it up in the new house as the mud room isnāt that large, though there is a utility tank I can hook into. Thereās an unfinished section in the basement with the hotwater heaterā¦but thatās the first hurdle I have.
Obviously when I move the tank, the rock and live stock will be in 2 different buckets. and I think Iāll just make 25 gallons of new waterā¦but transporting that to a place (maybe my inlaws?) is where I have questions. I may see about hooking up the RODI system over there in their downstairs kitchen, making water, set the tank up with new waterā¦leave the tank there until I can set the RODI up in the new house, make water, mix it, then move it from the inlaws over to the new house in 1 swift shotā¦
there are a few hurdles that I need to figure out and probably figure out sooner than later.
Another option is make water here, get 2 20 gallon brute totes, transport that to my inlaws (12 gallons in each). pour into a 32gallon bin, mix it up. Move the tank and livestock over on black friday. we close on the new house on 11/30ā¦hook up the RODI system, make 25 gallons new water, mix it upā¦move the tank to the new house, and go from there.
I also have a 10gallon that no one ever picked up, i could use that as a temporary holding tank, but naturally my anemoneās are on 2 different rocks and they wonāt fit in the 10gallon.
Iām sure folks here have moved, just curious how you went about it.
Marc Levenson recently did a live stream on moving fish tanks. Lots of good information.
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Iāve had the āpleasureā of moving my tanks half a dozen times. It isnāt pleasant, but Iāve gotten a good rhythm down that works for me. If you can have a tank setup at the new place ahead of time, thatās easiest, but I havenāt ever had that opportunity.
For me, the tank is the last thing moved out and the first thing moved in. It shortens the transition time as much as possible. I save as much of the tank water as I can. Your goal is stability, so the less you change the better. Hereās my process:
- Begin draining the tank into 5g buckets (bigger if you can handle moving them into a truck).
- Grab inverts as you see them and put them in a separate container. Keep grabbing them as you proceed.
- Remove any corals not attached to containers or bags with tank water. Float the bags in the sump to keep them warm.
- Remove any rock with encrusted corals and place them individually (as much as possible) in the 5g buckets as they fill.
- Put the remaining rock in an empty bucket and put a lid on the container. You donāt need water for this short of a move, but you can put them in buckets of water if you want. Beware they will be crazy heavy.
- Catch the fish now that the rock is out of the tank. Bag them individually or I prefer to put them in a 5g bucket with a battery powered air pump.
This last step is a preference. I prefer to leave the sandbed alone, but some people use this as an opportunity to clean it.
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Leave it alone method: Do your best not to disturb the sand drain as much water as you can and then make a hole in one corner down to the glass. Tip the tank up so it drains to this corner and keep removing water until you have it all or youāve had enough and want to yell
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Clean it method: Scoop sand out into a 5g bucket about 1g at a time. Add 1g of tank water and swish like crazy. This will stink and the water will be nasty. Dump the water out and move the sand to another container. Keep repeating this process, moving the sand into one container at the end until the sand is mostly clear.
That method hasnāt resulted in any losses for me over the moves weāve made. Good luck with yours!
I would go with Adamās method here.
As for your rodi if you have a utility sink if they put standard high rise faucet on it then you should already have a hose adapter on it. i use the 3/4" hose thread to 1/4" rodi adapter.
I would have some fresh water prepared ahead of time as a just incase method and you wont be pouring all of the old water back in, let the detritus and debris on the bottom of the bucket stay at the bottom,
the sink isnāt the problem. the issue is, it also doubles as the washer/dryer room and thereās not enough room to make a water station.
As we have gone through i have been very cautious about adding stuff to the tank, anticipating this day. So fortunately itās only 1 frogspawn coral which I can put in a ziploc bag. I have 2 rocks with anemoneās, and thatās itā¦3 fish, a cleaner shrimp, urchin and some snails. Shrimp and urchin will go in baggies. Fish in a bucket, and snails in a bucket.
i think the day before thanksgiving, Iāll transport 25 gallons of fresh rodi over to my inlaws and start mixing it up/heating. Black friday, iāll remove the rocks, and livestockā¦drain. move tank and stand over to the inlaws. fill up about 1/3 way, put the rocks back in, while itās filling up, float the livestockā¦then itās set up, with 100% new water. Gives me a week to set up the RODI in the new house. I have a couple ideas, but that said, Iāve spent about 20 minutes in the house total, so thereās lots TBD.
Honestly, if I was ready, this would be the perfect time to upgrade to the 40 breeder that I was talking aboutā¦But weāre not ready.
For now while the tank is sma you dont need a elaborate water system. You can get 50ā plus of rodi worse case and just run the 1 hose out to a section of the basement that you dont have a issue setting up how you want it.
I have a 10 gallon with stand, and led light/lid thatās free.
In the garage. Has 2 weeks to get moved