i seem to use alot of cyclops, pure reef, and target feed mysis to most of my lps…
i try to do about 2-3 gallons every week or 2.
HJack light has been very important for me. started with 130w compacts. got a free 150 mh so i switched them out. looked better but reflector was small. about a month ago desided to put both fictures on tank. ding,ding,ding! my colors poped. browned milli is comming back. starting to notice colors i didnt know exsited are popping.
i have also been keeping up with changing phosban and po4 pad and im soure that dosnt hurt.
I do a 3-5 gallon change on each of my 65-85 gallon systems ever other day. I get to do this because i need to change water in my clown fish rearing tanks to keep them clean. so i drain water from the fish rearing tanks and replace it with aged water from my reef and frag systems. then use new saltwater make up for the reef and frag tanks. recycling. but my nitrates stay at zero in the reef/frag tanks. not so much from the water changes, im sure, but from either the fuges or nuisance algaes growing in them. and my plenum sand beds, too.
And also…
The solution, to Pollution, Is Dilution!
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php
thats a pretty nice system you have going on there ken!
Hey all
What % of a change should be done if your doing it every day or every other day??in my opinion a water change every day seems overkill. but every few days i would say around 5%/10% max.
:TWOCENTS do WC based on your parameters, not a predetermined day or %.
[quote=“logans_daddy, post:27, topic:2298”]
:TWOCENTS do WC based on your parameters, not a predetermined day or %.[/quote]
ehhhh… can i interject here? i agree to an extent. BUT, if a system is set up well… ie:low bio load/low or no phosphates/ de nitrifying source, etc. water testing may NEVER show signs of NEEDING a water change due to params. BUT certain small things accumulate when the tank is simply topped off over a long period of time. water changes and fresh salt mix replenish and/or remove beneficial AND non beneficial things in the water. just my opinion anyhow.
i know what you r getting at, just wanted to point that out
agree with your theory, kind of, but my worry would be about things disappearing(IE trace minerals) rather than un-tested things accumlating. either way, i dont think its an issue for most of us.
for example, if you do WC to keep your NO3 at 5ppm or less, then i would guess for 99% of us we will need to do a WC before anything else is out of whack with maybe the exception of Ca and Mg which can be dosed. If, as you say, someone has a system so tight that the parameters do not flucuate at all over such a long period of time that a lack of WC will begin to have negative effects, then sure, it might be a good ideal to do a “this % on that day” maintenace routine.
anyways. i think ive beat this topic to death ;D i think its a very simple, and common sense approach to husbandry but im certainly not trying to win over converts >LOL<
Bill - we can chat at the meeting if you want
touche’
Sounds good talk to ya then.
And guys if you were to see Shawns set up for water changes everyone would understand. It is very clean and about as easy as it gets once it’s set up.
Yeah, thats nice, but its collecting dust unfortunately ;D Waiting for the 150g in January. Unfortunately, i have to do a glorified bucket method for my 34g and 40g. The 265g has an auto fill from upstairs, but still needs to be manually drained. Damn i miss my basement ;D
Bring it over this way I’ll put it to use 