be careful to match your return pump to the effluent flow from the overflow… i’ve had problems with my return pumping more water than my overflow originally produced…the problem was solved with some tweaking but something to watch out for cause it flooded a few times… luckily i was around to catch the problem
did that overflow box look way to big?
also to match the overflow to the pump how is that done? cant i get valves to tweak the amount of flow either way?? I think i almost got it under my wings, but do not want a flood either 
I am going to that fish place saturday to hopefully get everything i need.
tubing wise i can use tubing or do i have to use pvc?
You want an overflow that is rated for higher than that of your return pump. I’m not sure what the id of the pipe connection is coming off of that overflow, but that should be able to do around 600gph, which is PLENTY for your 6 gallon.
The overflow can’t flow more than your pumping in with the return pump, so as long as your pump is under rated from your return, your good. If your pump flows more than your overflow you CAN neck it off with ball valves, but I don’t recommend it (although I haven’t had a flood from that, yet).
You can use tubing but it will eventually grow algae in it if it is clear and restrict flow. I would do as much as you can with can with pvc.
first, really thank you so much 4 the help so far. this stuff is over my head right now.
so with the overfllow box i showed coupled with the mag 1.9 everything will work from there?
also they have green tubing is that ok? also pvc just seems harder to do, am i wrong?
one last thing for the return do i use a u bend to put it in tank? too much flow for a 6?
[quote=“michaelangelo, post:24, topic:2021”]
first, really thank you so much 4 the help so far. this stuff is over my head right now.
so with the overfllow box i showed coupled with the mag 1.9 everything will work from there?
also they have green tubing is that ok? also pvc just seems harder to do, am i wrong?
one last thing for the return do i use a u bend to put it in tank?[/quote]
Just think it all out.
Yes, that overfow and mag should work. Check the size of that overflow compared to the size of your tank (dimensions) and see how much space it is going to take up back there and decide if that is what you want.
Never seen the green tubing, but if its not clear it should work. Clear will work (i’ve got some clear on my setup) but it will grow algae in it. PVC isn’t hard, just put the pipes where you want them and glue!
Do you mean a ‘u-tube’ like for a siphon? I just used two 90° PVC connections. It would be cool to drill the tank for the return have it come up in the center, that is what I want to do with our nano.
[quote=“IanH, post:23, topic:2021”]
You want an overflow that is rated for higher than that of your return pump.
The overflow can’t flow more than your pumping in with the return pump, so as long as your pump is under rated from your return, your good. [/quote]
Be careful here. An overflow box rated for significantly more then the return pump can either:
A. easily drain too much water too fast and ruin the carpet.
B. lose the siphon by dunping max capacity to the sump and then the return pumps a sump full of water in to and over the DT. Also resulting in wet carpet.
[quote=“IanH, post:23, topic:2021”]
You can use tubing but it will eventually grow algae in it if it is clear and restrict flow. [/quote]
You can wrap the clear tubing in black electrical tape to prevent algae growth. Algae growth is really only a concern when there is significant light involved (such as a sump w/ a fuge).
Be careful here. An overflow box rated for significantly more then the return pump can either: A. easily drain too much water too fast and ruin the carpet. B. lose the siphon by dunping max capacity to the sump and then the return pumps a sump full of water in to and over the DT. Also resulting in wet carpet.
I’m going to disagree.
The overflow will not flow more than the return pump. The water level in the DT will drop to the overflow level and can’t flow more than that (no water), therefore it will flow exactly what the pump is putting back into the tank.
Now if you loose your siphon then yes you will end up draining the sump (into the DT) and ending up with a wet carpet, but that is an issue with all overflow boxes (or anything that uses a siphon), and they are designed to maintain siphon with a power outage (or low flow). View the second picture in this link http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/overflow.htm
I couldnt wait!!! I went to that fish place and got my matierials!!! I need teflon tape as well as silicone so i cant set it up just yet but heres some pics for update
Watch freddie and the Saw guy don’t mess with your sump!
lmao!!! I think they might have to move after this project!! besides they bicker 2 much
got the silicone!!! I siliconed one baffle tonight , hoping it holds and if leak proof we ready to go tomorrow after an aquascape … im siked i cant wait, oh and teflon tape the pvc together…
oh and teflon tape the pvc together....
im almost 100% sure you dont mean it the way you typed it…but you know that the tape is only for threaded fittings and glue is for slip fittings right? ;D also, the any barbed connections for the hose should be secured if they are going to be used for the return. you can buy plastic clamps at most LFS, metal pipe clamps at any box store, or a simple ty-wrap will work almost as well.
hoping it holds and if leak proof
also, im not sure of your specific application for your baffle, but they generally dont have to be leak proof. as long as they are secure they will be just fine. a little trick is to use spacers. place the tank vertically and stack the first baffle on top of something(scrap wood, books, soup cans, whatever) at the height you want it and silicone it in place. the spacers will make sure it dries exactly where you want it without the use of any tape. after the first baffle is dry you add more spacers on top of the first baffle to adhere the next baffle. again, the right size book will give you the perfect space between baffles. adhere and repeat as needed.
hey with the teflon tape , i do have threaded PVC pieces, they twist together, every piece. so i would use teflon tape correct?
also the baffles, ( i just though they were called baffles, ) i have a baffle or divider so i have a chamber with the pump so sand and or algae doesnt clog it. i will have a fuge tied in with this. and with the hose coming into the sump i put light eggcrate diagnoly so keep it secure, but i will also have a clamp or tie wrap.
And you guys know what, it’s like my six gallon knew what i was doing i woke up today and the timer got reset for somereason and it turned on early dont you know 90% of all the cyano is GONE!!! what the hell, everything looks great today. ahh well, more filtration huge fuge and better circulation .
One question before i plunge, when i get everyhting set up, do i plug the pump in first? or start the syphon? or get a friend and count to three? lol.
also confused on how to start the syphon
hey with the teflon tape , i do have threaded PVC pieces, they twist together, every piece. so i would use teflon tape correct?
yep
One question before i plunge, when i get everyhting set up, do i plug the pump in first? or start the syphon? or get a friend and count to three? lol.also confused on how to start the syphon
doesnt really matter which you do first but its probably easier to start your return pump. the HOB overflow should auto siphon. my only suggestion would be this. have a bucket of saltwater standing by to add slowly instead of filling up your sump. when you first prime your new system you can add water as your pump starts to pull air to dial in the water level. once you have just enough water that your pump is submerged and everything is stablized your going to want to turn your pump off and see where your water level is. this will ensure that you wont flood your sump in case of power failure and give you your max water line. for example, after you turn the pump off if your water levels is 4" from the top of the sump then after you turn the pump back on you could safely add 3 more inches of water and make that level your “full level”. by that i simply mean taking a sharpie and marking you sump to know how to compensate for evaporation either through manual or automatic top off. what this would ensure is that as long as you keep your water level at “full level” or below, when the pump is turned off the water will not rais higher than 1" from the top of the sump. just make sure you take into consideration anything you may add to the sump that will displace water(i.e, sand, heater, etc).
Ditto to what Shawn said, knowing your fill line is very important and helpful.
Just so you understand why you need the overflow box. It is practically impossible to match a siphon and a pump exactly. You might get a drop of water per second more going up or down and that extra drop in time will over flow one tank or the other. Even if it were possible to match what was going up exactly with what is coming down the flow rates will change. Things will grow in the pipes, temperatures will change things, a snail could walk across either and slow things down. Nothing stays consistent for long and you end up with a wet carpet.
Many people have tried to set up a siphon and pump to get a sump attached in the past and ended up with wet carpets.(I know some former LFS employees in a shop over an hour from here that attempted it.) It’s good you asked questions ahead of time.(And asked on this forum instead of at that particular LFS 
yea im pretty much all set. your guys input was invaluable… trust me i cant thank you guys enough. i will have more questions though not out of the wood work till this thing is working. im not setting it up till late today round 4.
+1 to what those guys said. Instead of a sharpie I use masking tape to mark my ‘full’ line, that way it can be changed and you don’t end up with sharpie marks all over your tank, that are great to confuse the crap out of that friend you got to top off your tank while you were gone.
I’m not familiar with that particular overflow, but I don’t think its going to auto siphon, you need to get it started the first time you use it (or any time the u tube is filled with air). You can use an aqua lifter to suck the air out or a powerhead with a tube to shoot water through the siphon to get it started or anyother inventive ways you can find 
I would personally get the siphon going then starting the return pump is easy as plugging it in.
If you need to stop the siphon, just yank out the u tube.
It may also be beneficial to have a union ball valve on both the drain and return sides for any maintenance you want to do.
http://www.eshopps.com/Siphon/Self-StartSiphon.pdf
^^^ that is the directions for my overflow. I am not looking forward to trying to start the syphon. I will try the power head idea, or get a tube n suck , lol. should be easer than it looks. i really hope so
Aqua lifters highly recommended for this purpose. Can be set up to continuous start the siphon just incase.
i does seem like an invaluable tool. however after yesterday i am strapped for funds…
i hope my pw with a tube works… geez you always need something else lmao