Man, talk about an all-encompassing build. Just read through from the beginning. Had to change my drool rag roughly 7 times in the process. I think my favorite part so far has to be the bypass in the sump. First time I’ve seen that. Seriously though, from start to current, great job all around. I’ll be going through the same process with a 110 and a 50gal sump once I move to a place with a floor that can support it. This is pretty much exactly what i’m going for with the LED’s, DSB and all. Super jealous of the man-cave. Kudos, my friend. :
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Each driver is 30-70 V 680mA running parallel 18 LEDs on each.I hope that is after the math ? for each parallel string your amps would be halved so if your driver is really 680mA then you would only be pushing 340mA to each string., that's the reason for fuses with parallel string, because if one goes it doubles the amps to the other. A have you checked what the amp are though your strings ?
Thanks Alex, I can’t wait either, but have to wait till the room gets built to put the tank up. Meanwhile I’m making the DIY LEDs light for it. Please post you build here as well. We would like to see/follow your build.
Frank, I don’t have an amp meter. Plus I don’t even know how to use one. I’m just reading off the label from the driver for what amperage and I just follow the instruction that was givin on how to put this thing together. also it state it can run 12-20 LED on one driver. So, are you saying its not enough or too much?
the 10 - 20 is based on volts, the amps is what is going to drive the intensity of the LEDs
do you have a link to the LED emiters you are using. I’ll try to make a very easy to follow with pictures of how to test the amps with a very cheap $5.00 Multi-meter that you can get just about any hardware store.
Thank you Frank. I appreciated, electronic 101. The LED chips are Bridgelux LED. I never did any research on the chips, but I read that they are almost the same as others for the money. There are many thread on RC about the company where I got the kit from. http://www.aquastyleonline.com/
OK so looking at them they seem to be 3.6 FV @ 700mA so you can run 19 on each driver but the problem is the amps, each time you add a Parallel string you halve the amps, so right now you are running them at half power when you have them cranked all the way up, that explains the lower than expected heat.
If you remember earlier recommended the G-185-42B and to wire them in parallel with that driver.
that driver puts out 2.2 - 4.4 amps at 42V so at 3.6 FV that would be 11 Leds per string with a minimum of 4 strings with a max of 6 strings, now that is at full power. So that would be 66 leds per driver at full power, right now your getting 36 leds at half power. (thats is by the numbers, it would not have a problem doing 12 Leds per string and 7 strings at 628mA which would take you to 84 Leds per driver if needed)
A Mean Well ELN-60-48D is 0 - 1.3 amps at 42V so same thing 11 leds so that would give you two strings of 11 for 22 leds running at 650mA which is near full power.
A I have the meter you need I have a spare you can borrow. I know how to use them but I am lost on parallel led setup. I have series. But Hudz has it under control! I have a fluke 87 and a spare 89 both will measure all you need. Like I said the 89 I don’t use it’s a spare in my garage.
Hudz I have a question do you wire a parallel then series it or just strait parallel? And does the driver a has have multiple outputs to run multiple strings or do you split off from two output wires?
[quote=“dunk, post:87, topic:5327”]
A I have the meter you need I have a spare you can borrow. I know how to use them but I am lost on parallel led setup. I have series. But Hudz has it under control! I have a fluke 87 and a spare 89 both will measure all you need. Like I said the 89 I don’t use it’s a spare in my garage.
Hudz I have a question do you wire a parallel then series it or just strait parallel? And does the driver a has have multiple outputs to run multiple strings or do you split off from two output wires?[/quote]
OK, I just got lost. What is the different between running parallel and or series? I just run + from my driver to ± on each chip then back to - on the driver. I’m guessing that’s parallel, correct? or how should I connect it?
Series is out positive from the driver to the first led positive then from that led negative to the next led positive and at the end of the string you will have the negative going to the driver negative
Ok, while still waiting for my builder/neighbor to finish his project at his house to get my tank up. I finished the light rack for the tank. Instead of waiting to use on the 225g tank. I took the MH off my 120g and set the LED lights up on it. For a rookie, I think I did OK. At this time the blue and 420nm are at 75% and the other colors and white are at 50%.
I turned up 100% on each just to see what it would look like and it looked just as bright as 250w or maybe 400w MH, don’t know for sure, but I know it’s bright.
Here’s some pics:
Looks great A
looks awesome!! i was thinking of experimenting with full led with the colors you have keep us posted how the corals respond. it looks really good i like the color kind of looks like the metal halides still on there.
I take it you got the parallel strings and drivers worked out to get the full amps ?
Fantastic!!! :BEER
Corals look great under the new LED’s. Nice job A. ::
Lots of LEDs to solder A. Must have done a bunch of all nighters. the color mix looks pretty good. are there some teals and reds in there too? Cant wait to see the new system, when its up.
Thanks guys. Actually its been up for about a week now and the corals seems to like it so far. At least the deresa clam seems to really like it too, it opens up really wide.
[quote=“Hudzon, post:94, topic:5327”]
I take it you got the parallel strings and drivers worked out to get the full amps ?[/quote]
I sure did Frank. Thanks for your help and that link.
[quote=“kaptken, post:96, topic:5327”]
Lots of LEDs to solder A. Must have done a bunch of all nighters. the color mix looks pretty good. are there some teals and reds in there too? Cant wait to see the new system, when its up.[/quote]
Yes, it was Ken. The soldering part wasn’t that hard. It was the chip placement and trying to figure how the wiring would go. It got confusing after a while.
There’s royal blue and 420nm for the blue lights. 10K, 65K, 45K and some green and pink in the mix for the whites. I’m not sure yet as to what purpose the green and pink will serve. I read somewhere that it doesn’t do anything. I’ll test it for now and see if it does anything, if not I’ll just pop it out and replace it with something else.
Any new progress A?
Sorry John, wish I can tell you that I’m progressing. But I’m still waiting for the good help, builder/neighbor to finish his project, he’s almost done. And for me to get the shed done in the back yard so that I can get the stuff out of the garage and into the shed, then he can start on the garage. 2-3 more weeks maybe to get to start on the tank. Believe me I will let people know. Thanks for looking out.
are you going to build a sump room in the garage? With heat and AC service? i think i missed something.