also for a littlebit easier build and maximum inside stand, 6 sheets of 3/4 hardwood plywood can support a tank up to around 120gallons. HARDWOOD means oak, maple etc… not pine or particle board. im gonna build my stand like that. im gonna square out 2 vertical supports made out of two 2x4s, kind of like the supports on nemmys pics that for the L. and than bolt the plywood. on to that so its square. i have seen many stands made out of only 3/4 plywood and there sturdy as a brick. check the diy section on reef central thats where i got the idea.
HARDWOOD means oak, maple etc... not pine or particle board.
it also means EXPENSIVE and OVERKILL lOl
Thin hardwood is nice if you want to skim the stand, but i probably wouldnt use it for the top. I build my stand for my 265g using the exact method above except with lag bolts instead of screws. I put construction grade 3/4" plywood on the top only because its barebottom and i wanted to paint the wood instead of the glass. You can see pics of it here on the first page. Grand total it probably cost me $50.
deck boards, wains coat, any kind of paneling/paint. get creative!!! maybe keep a window of sorts open in the front just to show off the fuge… the nice thing about diy projects is, u can customize it. take your time, and make sure its what u want. the journey should be half the fun.
looks to be more than enough to me. i guess the supports r gonna be necessary simply because the stand is gonna be larger than the tank right?? if the stand was the same exact dimensions as the footprint of the tank, no supports across the top would be necessary. i still think the supports would not need to hugely structurally dependant if your top plate was strong and laid over the frame all the way around… would still add em, simply to keep the top from bowing more or less. i would think a few supports simply screwed in, and attached to the top plate would be more than enough
+1 Foam is critical for rimless tanks, but arent necessary for a rimmed tank. However, like fishguy said, it wont hurt. Ive seen people use foam for rimmed tanks.
your CAD looks very good now. if you construct it correctly that stand will last forever. i wouldnt use hardwood on the top. waste of money. also, be sure to not screw the plywood to the frame if you use plywood. let it float or use a little wood glue.
Im not going to use plywood, i really dont know what im going to use ill just walk around lowes till i find something… If i dont use hardwood on the top, how would i get enough support to hold the tank, as it willnot be resting on the stand but in the middle of it… cause the stand is bigger than tank
i only suggested you not use hardwood, regular 3/4" plywood will be more than enough. if i recall correctly, it think its about $17 a sheet. because the width of the stand will be the same as the width of the tank. the extra length wont be an issue. make sure the three edges rest on top of frame, and you can add a crossbrace for the fourth edge.
yeah, i think your right. it says 24" wide in his post, but one of the CAD’s has 36".
If the stand is both wider and longer than the tank, you are DEFINITELY going to need cross braces. I would put them no less than every 18". Also, i would highly recommend you use joist hangers on the cross braces if you do build the stand longer and wider than your tank.
ya and my tank is only a 1 foot wide… yep it will be longer and wider, and im going to put them i think every 12 inches or so i forget what it worked out to be, and i will put the holder things your talking about…
Lowes or homedepot. You can buy construction/insulation foam in 8’ X 4’ sheets up to 1" thick for about $10. The also have sheets of regular styrofoam that are 4’ X 18" with i think 6 or so in a pack for about the same price. Ive used both.
is this enough umph for the return?
I cant drill the 10g so how do i work the return for that?
Any suggestions for HoB overflows as im not going to drill main?
what about doing 2 20g and then drilling for the return pump?
Its up and running so i will have to empty half of the 30g then move it, and i dont know if i should drill with i t still half filled up…
and 10g to fragile and crack too easy, maby ill just get another 20 and drill it…
Any thoughts on drilling the 40g when its half full… ?
Also im having a hard time on what i want to do to finish the stand. I dont want to stain, and i dont want to paint… im so lost in that aspect… getting wood this weekend though
I know that drilling a 10g is possible… I have done 3. As far as drilling a full tank, I’m not sure… Al is the one to talk to. I think it should be possible, or simply borrow a 30g from someone, put the LR in it, drill yours, and put it back together.
Ya that works too, i have read a lot of stories thought were the glass is so thin that tighting a bulkhead or pushing in pvc an crack it. Actually john has quite some experience with it :)… but ya i really wouldnt mind drilling the entire tank…
