Drilling a 10g is possible. I actually have a 5g that i drilled and installed a homemade bulkhead that ive been using for about a year or so with no problems.
However, Jon is right, its really not suitable for most scenarios. The slightest pressure on the bulkhead or plumbing can cause stress fractures very easily. Im not saying its impossible, but i wouldnt recommend attaching a pump to the bulkhead of a drilled 10g because of the vibration. My 5g has two hairline fractures from when i drilled it but i never put pressure on the bulkhead so there hasnt been any issues.
Uhhh… That makes the 10g your surge capacity tank. that limits the amount of evap you can handle without running the pump dry, or the amount of drainback from the DT if the power goes off. Is that enough capacity to keep the floor dry? the 10 will no doubt run at half full, leaving 5 gallons drain down capacity, or only 3 gallons of evap or loss tolerance. pretty tight tolerances. see what i mean?
Ya, now that i think about it, i would much rather go with another 20g, and if the power goes out there will be more than enough tank to catch whatever drains… So right now my to do list:
gather wood and start stand
find another 20g and get it drilled
look into drilling 40g uptop, and how to drain the DT
ask more questions
So i want to incorporate 2 phosban reactors, one for carbon and one for phosban. How do i go about plumbing them into the system… or how do they work (mechanics)?
I also dont know how im going to do the plumbing, and what safety measures i will need. I heard about drilling a small hole in some pipe, but to tell you the truth i haven’t looked into plumbing yet. That will be my project for the next week. Do you guys have any input on it?
i have a couple of drilled 20g tanks that i was going to turn into frog vivariums. one is already baffled for a sump/refugium combination and already has a bulkhead installed at the appropriate height for an external pump. pm me if your interested, you can have it very cheap.
the “hole in the pipe” is an antisiphon and is only necessary at certain points. ive got a very nice trick for doing these in a much cleaner and effective way. let me know when you get that far.
as far as reactors, get everything else up and running first. there are different ways of incorporating them into your system, but personally, i would by a larger return pump and build a manifold off of your return pump. again, i have a very tricked out way of doing this, so let me know when you get to that point. essentially, you use your return pump as a return and to feed both reactors. they will then simply drain back into your sump. its simple, effective, and efficient.
My father believes that my plans are redundant, that screws transfer weight to the verticle beams, and that his way is better…
Thats his version. i got all the wood i need for my version but he thinks its pointless putting 3 studs in one corner… so he wants to do it his way, and i dont know how to explain that its structurally flawed…
The screws wont transfer the weight. Because your father is convinced of the design, i wont push the issue, but i sincerely urge you to reconsider that design especially if you still intend to build a 60" X 24" stand to support a 36" X 18" tank. Remember, although you tank is relatively small, it will still likely weigh between 350-400lbs full. Most of the load is unsupported in that design. As time goes by, and the plywood begins to bow(which it will), the load will begin to transfer inwards to the unsupported middle. Add in the effects of spilled water, humidity, salt creep, etc etc and it wouldnt be a risk i would personally take to save $10 on lumber. Its unlikely that the stand would collpase, but its much more likely that the shifting stand would put stress on the tank that could result in a cracked tank. It wouldnt be the first time.
just think about a house. your foundation carrys the loads of outside walls…floor joist carry the interior walls and tie it all together. floor joist are set on 16 inch centers. your last picture is like foundation walls, but there are no floor joist. need atleast 2 too 3 to help disperce load over the foundation due to your tank not sitting over perimeter. we are trying to give you a way to explain this as best as we can, but there is an old saying LIVE AND LEARN
[quote=“logans_daddy, post:68, topic:2332”]
The screws wont transfer the weight. Because your father is convinced of the design, i wont push the issue, but i sincerely urge you to reconsider that design especially if you still intend to build a 60" X 24" stand to support a 36" X 18" tank. Remember, although you tank is relatively small, it will still likely weigh between 350-400lbs full. Most of the load is unsupported in that design. As time goes by, and the plywood begins to bow(which it will), the load will begin to transfer inwards to the unsupported middle. Add in the effects of spilled water, humidity, salt creep, etc etc and it wouldnt be a risk i would personally take to save $10 on lumber. Its unlikely that the stand would collpase, but its much more likely that the shifting stand would put stress on the tank that could result in a cracked tank. It wouldnt be the first time.[/quote]
this is why i went with a metal frame stand!
seriously though, cutting any corners in the build of a tank spells disaster in ways people dont even anticipate!
ya, theres center braces i just didnt feel like putting on, i was talking about the whole no studs inbetween the upper and lower 2x4 boxes… and i will end up doing it my way… we are using 3" lag bolts/scres or what ever you call them, and then some 2.5" deck screws…
We start building tomorrow… Im going to use a veneer and stain it blackish.
so 12 8’ 2x4, 1 3/8 plywood sheet, and 2 1/4 veneer wood sheets, bolts, washers totals to only 110 so it was that expensive… i think i will need more veneer sheets.
[quote=“martinfaimly, post:69, topic:2332”]
we are trying to give you a way to explain this as best as we can, but there is an old saying LIVE AND LEARN[/quote]
something something horse…blah blah blah water lOl
Not to start an issue, but i do have a question. Why ask the club for our input if you were just going to do it your own way? I dont mind contributing my experience, but if its all the same, i would prefer to save my fingers the wear and tear of typing a long post if i knew it was for nothing.
couple of thoughts. lag bolts will work just find, but they arent actual bolts. they are self taping screws so you wont need washers or nuts. screws are good, but lag bolts will definitely add some serious strength to your stand.
with the veneer, are you talking about the thin little sheets that you glue on like wallpaper?
Ya, i didnt think i needed washers but he wants to countersink the lag heads into thewood, and add a washer… it was like 8 bucks for washers so ya…
Its 1/4 veneered plywood… its got a core center than like 1/16" of maple on one side and 1/16" of oak on the other side and a 2/16" center. its not going to bear any weight, so the 1/4 will work…
Ya, i didnt think i needed washers but he wants to countersink the lag heads into thewood, and add a washer
cant really picture what you mean. im guessing maybe that your using a spade or forstner bit the size of the washer and recessing the head of the bolt? definitely a must for skinning the stand and im sure the washers wont hurt.
Its 1/4 veneered plywood... its got a core center than like 1/16" of maple on one side and 1/16" of oak on the other side and a 2/16" center. its not going to bear any weight, so the 1/4 will work...
definitely. thats the ideal way to skin a stand. you cant stain regular plywood. well, you can, but it will just look like $hit. sounds like you guys got a pretty good start. i know its a PIA to take work in progress shots, i never do, but definitley try to take as many pics as you can.
are you guys using any moulding to pull the pieces of veneer together? what have you decided to do with panels/doors? if your not going to skin the stand with plywood first, then you could probaly make a faux-door with the veneer panal and a little moulding and hang it with magnets instead of hinges. pretty popular method.
cant really picture what you mean. im guessing maybe that your using a spade or forstner bit the size of the washer and recessing the head of the bolt? definitely a must for skinning the stand and im sure the washers wont hurt.
Yep, thats right…
definitely. thats the ideal way to skin a stand. you cant stain regular plywood. well, you can, but it will just look like $hit. sounds like you guys got a pretty good start. i know its a PIA to take work in progress shots, i never do, but definitley try to take as many pics as you can.
going to take pics as often as possible.
are you guys using any moulding to pull the pieces of veneer together?
Didn’t really think about that but might be a good idea… ill look into it. The problem is the top edges will be exposed, so do i mold the top too?
I like the magnet idea, but i want a swinging legit door. Havent thought about how to do this, as this will be the very last step in making the stand. Might just do 1/2ish plywood, skinned with veneer. and i still havent found the hinges im looking for.
update:
When i started cutting i realized that a 2x4 is not 2"x4" its 1.5"x3.5". Wish i had had this epiphany sooner as the drawlings were way off and we freeballed it. But it all worked out.
No pics tonight some tomorrow, cut all the wood (crap load). stacked it. Started on the top frame. 4 support beams. 2 lag screws per beam … so 24 bolts in right now… Things as sturdy as $hit. Going to get the bottom done tomorrow, and then connect the 2 top and bottem. friday, i will add all the 28" beams that go between top and bottem frame. thats gonna take forever… Sat measure and cut veneer attach to stand and put 1st coat of stain on. Sunday 2nd coat of stain. Monday 1st varnish. tuesday 2nd varnish. Wendsday 3rd varnish. Thurs, wola stand complete…
so i have till sat to decide on doors, and Thursday to decide whats going to be the deal with the sump… And then the next big project, PLUMBING…
Ya, i realized now. I guess it is 2x4 raw and then they grind it down a little. And i did the calculations real quick, and its fine. Need another 2x4, so have to get one tomorrow…
