Well as of now, the top of the stand is open, so I’d have to put a piece of plywood all across the top of that and then put the plugs on top of that. There are already a few holes plugged up with 1/2" glass. I believe its glass, can’t really tell if its acrylic or what. That sealed fine and held. I think I am going to do that. The thicker glass would be harder to break. To make it BB I’d have to run a piece of thin glass all along the bottom of the tank, which would be pricey and not to mention how I’d get it through the top of the tank. Tomorrow I am going to call around to some glass shops and get prices and ideas on 2.5"x2.5" pieces of either 1/2" glass or acrylic. I am just worried about acrylic leaking since its an acrylic to glass bond, don’t know if it matters. I always thought it had to be glass to glass or acrylic to acrylic. With sand over top of the glass squares and all my rocks drilled together, I don’t think I’d have to worry about anything breaking the glass, except the weight of all the water.
I would just be worried about the structural integrity. There is no way in hell i would put that tank on a stand without a flat surface.
as far as glass or acrylic. you are right, silicone does not bond to acrylic as well as it does glass, but in this case it makes no difference. The bond is not that important as far as keeping it water tight goes unless you plan to have lateral pressure on the squares. The silicone will act as a gasket with the weight of the water keeping it watertight. The silicon should bond well enough to keep it from being accidentally displaced.
after you silicone the square in place i would also make a angled coating all around the edges as well.
I really don’t know if the stand has a flat top on it. I still have to get it, it didn’t fit in the truck. I was told I was getting a 84x18x18 tank, turned out to be a 82x24x24 tank. Good surprise, but I left the stand behind until tomorrow. I will have to add a plywood board if it doesn’t already have one. I think I will go with 1/2" glass coverings, I’m too afraid acrylic won’t bond right (seal, whatever you want to call it, forming the gasket) and it could come loose, letting everything out. Maybe I could get tempered glass, give me more peace of mind. I might replace the other covered holes with tempered 1/2" glass, for even more peace of mind.
Now as far as the overflow, I’ll have three 3/4" bulkheads to work with. I’ll need to find a way to hide the pipes since I don’t have an overflow box. Any ideas on that one? I’ll figure out the rest of the stand/bottom of the tank stuff tomorrow when I get the stand.
Martin, good idea. The others were already done like that. I will definitely do that to prevent any injuries.
for the 3/4 pipes i say make concrete pipe sleeves.
the silicone acts as both an adhesive and flexible gasket. like an “O” ring, the weight of the water above it will compress it and make it a better seal. over a small hole a thinner oversized square or circle of acrylic or glass will hold the water pressure. the entire bottom has to be thicker to carry and distribute the whole load. if plexi is the entire wall or bottom it has to be much thicker to resist bowing. and the bottom should be on a full flat surface support. but little holes are little loads on the patch plastic. no problem you only got 2 feet of water. but all the holes are like the perferations on your credit card bill stub, to make it easier to TEAR ACROSS THE DOTTED LINE. or so the old ANT and saltine cracker box joke goes .
Makes sense. The holes I will be covering up are only 3/4" theres 8 of them. Then I will be covering up 2 1.125" holes. I will have 5 1.5" holes being used. I will have to go buy some plywood and brace the stand even more. I understand the whole gasket and it not leaked, being forced down on the tank. But I don’t like the fact that acrylic wont bond to glass, so I’d feel safer using 1/2" tempered glass. I wonder if I should leave the other holes covered up or should I replace all the glass coverings with the tempered sheets? Also, what silicone should I use? Thanks for everyones help.
Martinfam, I don’t know what you mean by concrete pipe sleeves? Sorry.
Ask Kaufman’s what the cost of a 1/2 inch acrylic would cost to cover the entire base of the tank. I would only fill that tank with some mega bracing. Those holes scare me. They are lined up and making them larger is not a good idea. Maybe remove the seals on the larger holes and use them
i dont think any glue bonds both glass and acrylic together like acrylic glue does by welding plastic. but silicone does stick to both. and is flexible and thats all you need. stores do that all the time. you could also use two squares of 1/4 acrylic glued or siliconed together to make the plug if you wish. find some scraps.
Al, I have changed plans. I am going to get tempered glass for all 7 3/4" holes and 2 1 1/8" holes. The other 5 1.5" holes I am using, 3 for drains and 2 for returns. I think tempered 1/2" glass should hold fine right? The tank is only 24" tall. Not your standard 29" tall 210g. I’d rather use glass (even if its more expensive) so I know I have a better bond, just to feel a little bit more safer. I will call around to some glass shops tomorrow and get prices.
I just need to figure out how to make overflow boxes. I can easily make them out of glass, but you’ll see right through into the plumbing. Any way I can paint the glass with a reef safe paint? Any ideas on how to design the drains so that they are hidden? I thought about drilling rock to put over the pvc but I am stuck at the top of the drain, durso drains are too bulky to hide. I’m kinda up in the air on this one.
Would covering and uncovering all of those holes really be easier then having a new piece of glass cut to replace the bottom of the tank?
I would think it woul dbe easier to take the trim off, cut the silicone away and install and fresh, clean, brand new pane of galss.
DPS…No your not either. To have a 7 special pieces of tempered fired to cover those holes would cost more then buying that tank new. Tempered glass can’t be bought then cut to size. It must be cut then fired (Tempered). Expensive to send out such a small order(couple $100 for sure). Plate glass can be cut.
Those 1.5 inch holes would allow for a 3/4 inch schedule 40 bulkhead.
Would covering and uncovering all of those holes really be easier then having a new piece of glass cut to replace the bottom of the tank?
sounds like the best idea yet. it would be a little labor intensive, but by far the best plan.
Scratch the tempered then. No big deal. I’ll just get 1/2" glass to cover the holes. I think you guys are thinking way to much into this and also forgetting some things. One, its 3/4" on the bottom, this is some serious thick glass, not thin AGA stuff. The tank was custom made. Two, the top is euro braced with 1/2" glass, I can’t just take it out and put it back. It’s not like a trim ring on a AGA tank. Three, you guys all act like taking the bottom pane out and replacing it is like installing a new bulkhead. I wouldn’t trust it, especially since I’ve never done something like that. There is less of a risk with me patching the holes then replacing the pane. I talked extensively with the owner and he had it full, never leaked, no problems with patching the glass. The weight will be distributed over a 3"x3" pane over a 3/4" hole, not really that much pressure on the hole. The stand is custom and beefed up as well, with plywood across the top but holes drilled where some (not all) of the holes drilled in the tank. I will have to make a few more holes for my overflow/return. I’ve been discussing this with a few other people (some engineers) and have an idea on how to get this tank right. It won’t be as bad as everyone thinks. I just have to wait until the glass shop reopens in a week! I should have this tank up and running sometime in jan, still figuring out a drain system. Thanks for the help and concern.
If you say so. All i will say is good luck, i hope it works for you!
Well let me be the first to say “I hope we’re wrong”
You have obviously done your research and have it all figured out. We whole heartedly wish you the best of luck and sincerely hope your plan works.
We seem to have offended you with our opinions on how to protect your purchase, your fish, and your parents house. We apologize. At least I do. You can be certain it will not happen again as I will no longer be offering my opinions or answers to your questions.
We apologize. I dont :P
My :TWOCENTS :
I sat through a few of those engineering classes once upon a time. I see a couple problems, and would like to offer the following:
- Holes all over with patches
I think it would be easier to apply a couple of large patches vs. a bunch of small ones
- Integrity of the bottom
I believe that you should place a piece of foam under the tank (inside the rim of the bottom) in order to support the weight of the tank contents. Not talking about shoring up the stand here, but between the stand and the bottom of the tank.(try insulation) Also, I would not go barebottom in this tank. With the bottom already compromised, placing pointed edges of live rock against it may prove to be too much. Think in terms of pounds per square inch. All that extra sand will distribut the contents evenly to areas without structural compromise.
- Overflow-
Dig up the RC link to the dude who did the foam background on his tank. That was bad ass! Just use cut PVC for the overflow, and foam around it. That would be killer on a big ol tank like this. When (if) I set the 125 up again, that’s what I will do.
Just my attempt at help. Good luck!
Joe
[quote=“Jocephus, post:38, topic:956”]
Also, I would not go barebottom in this tank. With the bottom already compromised, placing pointed edges of live rock against it may prove to be too much. Think in terms of pounds per square inch. All that extra sand will distribut the contents evenly to areas without structural compromise.
Joe[/quote]
If this were a concern and it was my tank I don’t think I would not attempt. I always over engineer a solution. Nothing sucks more then getting that call…you know the one. The bad part about this call is it will be from your parents on a cell phone in a life raft floating around what use to be there basement
I haven’t thought about it enough to give you a good answer so I’ll give you a meh answer.
I agree with most of the stuff Joe said.
I don’t think I’d trust myself with doing a whole bottom piece either…but you could always research it and it would be fun to do. Might take a bit more time then just patching.
I’m sure you have the bug now that you have the tank and simply want it up and running ASAP. Just think of how much better you would feel by ‘doing it right’. I think either way you’d probably be alright.
Some math I guess.
27.7" of water is 1 psi. Your tank is 24" correct? 0.86 psi. Pounds per square inch. The weight will be spread out over the size of your patch panel and as Ken stated the silicone will function like an o-ring and will help to seal it. I don’t think sealing would be an issue. I’m not certain on the strength issue, but I don’t THINK it would be.
Hope it works out for you.