Is anyone in the club using an aquarium controller like digital aquatics or apex? I’m on the fence with getting one. I’m using power strips nd timers now. I do have a heater controller. My tank is a simple mixed reef. I have a sump. A return pump. A skimmer. 1 wave maker. A heater. Marine orbit led with its own controller on display tank. An a led fuge light on a timer. I don’t dose. Haven’t had any real issues other then heater fail. So I guessing I’m really asking do u think I really “need” one. Input would b greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I have been using a DA Reef keeper for over 10 yrs and like the easy way of controlling all the equipment on my tank.The newer models have many more features included on them now. Do some research about the different brands out there before you make a final decision.
I’m leaning towards the da. Marinedepot has it for 199 w/ ph probe. I like idea of expandablity with the apex but will I ever use it to full potential?! What do I really “need” to monitor. I don’t want to spent 1000s of dollars on a system. Nd the apex modules/probes seem to b very pricey. I kno u get what u pay for but I don’t wanna break the bank.
I currently have an APEX controller. I am very happy with it. Programming and upgrading are easy. There is a lot of help on line and I have never had an issue with customer service. They have a lot of devices that you can add on as well as DYI’s. To interface or view the controller, they have 3 methods. Phone APP, Fusion (cloud), Web page. I used them to check on the system on vacation or to turn on and off pumps for water changes / feeding , get emails when parameters are out of wack, auto top off . The controller brings everything together under one interface. I have never had a failure of the controller. Do I “need it” no but it does make working with the tank a lot easier.
I have a Apex Jr. without the display, with a break put box PM1 module, PM2 module, VDM module and EB4
Now I only use the EB4 and Breakout box now as I don’t dose anything but kalk and have not bought new probes for PH or salinity and replaced my DIY leds with ones with built-in controlers.
But all that said, the controllable outlets on the energy bars and the breakout box let you do amazing stuff
using cheap float switches
On Mine with just EB4 and Breakout boxes and float level switches, a couple magnetic switches and homemade contact switch for leak detector.
I control heaters
monitor ato reservoir level and disable ato pump if low (and send email and text warning )
monitor sump low level and turn on ato pump if low and if stays low for more then 20 minutes disable ato pump, skimmer and send email and text warning
monitor sump very low and turn off return pump, ato pump and skimmer, sound DIY alarm and send email and text warning
monitor sump high and turn off skimmer so it don’t overflow and disable ato pump and if high for more then 20 minutes send email and text warning
turn on fuge light @ 10:00pm and Off @ 6:00am
turn sump light off and on when door opens (magnetic switches)
leak detector sound DIY alarm and send email and text warning
I think controllers are more and more becoming a critical component. I run a reef angel and love it. I strongly encourage you to get one, even the $200 basic one is a great choice.
most controllers have the ability to control ato, and in fact offer a lot more control of the process then dedicated ATO systems
so with a controller all you would need is a breakout box and some float switches an ato reservoir and small pump, I like aqua lifters as they are nice and slow and I add my kalk with my ATO so that works out nice.
[quote=“Hudzon, post:8, topic:8890”]
most controllers have the ability to control ato, and in fact offer a lot more control of the process then dedicated ATO systems
so with a controller all you would need is a breakout box and some float switches an ato reservoir and small pump, I like aqua lifters as they are nice and slow and I add my kalk with my ATO so that works out nice.[/quote]
Do u know it the da reefkeeper lite will do that?Controllers & Monitors - Controllers & Testing - Bulk Reef Supply
The wife already approved an ato. But… if it can do it I’ll go with the controller instead!
DA would be my last choice for a new controller, I would look into a APEX Jr or a Basic Reef Angel, the nice thing about Apex is they come with Ethernet built-in and free web monitoring and control via apex fusion.
for ATO
With the Apex you would need a breakout box very easy to DIY, and float switches
with Reef Angel it comes with the breakout for two float switches and includes the switches too
with DA lite, you would need a SL1/SL2 or SL5 module and the DA float switches
Now if you plan on adding onto your system in the future (dosing pumps, kalk reactor, etc.) then I would recommend going with a control. There are lots of good ones that others have already spoken too.
When it comes to an ATO, you need 2 things, pump control and knowing the water level of the sump. There are several ways to do this; buy a self-contained ATO like the Tunze or SmartATO, etc. or you can buy a water level sensor for your controller and hook up a small pump. Either will get the job done.
Given your current system, here are my thoughts:
LEDs: on own controller
wave maker: on own controller
heater: a) hook up to a controller, b) buy a titanium heater with a self contained controller; these are the safest options IMO
return pump: IMO its a bad idea to hook up your return pump to your controller bc it adds another failure point (ie if you controller fails, your return pump is off) Things that run continuously shouldn’t be put on a controller. An exception would be if you HAVE to have your return pump off during feeding.
Skimmer: only connect to controller for feeding mode
In summary I don’t think you NEED one given your current system, but I would get one if your planning to add onto it soon. Till then, you can probably get away with the smart outlet.
I largely agree with Bryant. A controller, for me, is an insurance policy and gives me some piece of mind since I travel so much. Controllers are not bullet proof, but they are reliable. That said, do you need one? Absolutely not. If your tank is stable and you are happy with what you have, stick with it. I don’t know enough about those wifi outlets to comment. Just make sure you get one that is reliable
My controller runs my lighting schedule, controls my heater, runs my ATO and everything that is simply on/off is hooked in too. There are only two things that need to be on external controllers, in my opinion: heaters and ATOs. A heater controller is an absolute must. The thermostats on the heaters are just too unreliable IMO. Having the controller is a great backup. I want my tank to be 80 dgrees, so the heater is set for that. My controller is set for 82. If the heater fails to turn off at the proper temp, my controller turns it off. Simple. ATO’s need to be on a controller if for no other reason than to avoid adding too much RODI. There are several ways to avoid that and a controller is part of a multi-faceted solution. For me, I run an Avast ATO sensor which has a digital output to my controller. The controller has a built-in timer that only runs the ATO pump for 3 minutes, even if the sensor is still calling for water. On top of that, my ATO pump pulls from a reservoir so even if my controller fails to turn the ATO pump off there is only so much water that can be added (2 gallons in my case).
There are plenty of other nice things a controller can do. Mine has overheat protection for example. If the temperature continues to rise after the heater is shut off, it will first shut down my skimmer. If that doesn’t help the lights will go off too. I run LEDs so that really doesn’t help, but it would with MH or T5s. I also check in on my tank from my phone while I’m away and can see where my temperature and pH are. See if the ATO timeout was hit (aka ask my wife to add more water to the reservoir). It can send alerts if something goes wrong too.
Annnnnd finally… If you don’t already, EVERYONE (yes EVERYONE!) needs to have an automatic backup air pump in their DT. They cost $20 and there is absolutely no reason not to have one on your tank. Power goes off, air pump goes on. Power comes on, air pump goes off. Mine is plugged into my controller on an always on outlet. Controller dies for any reason and the air pump comes on.
Ok, I lied… One more thing… Make sure everything is plugged into a GFCI!
Oh, the other nice thing about controllers is the ability to turn an outlet off by name on your phone/computer. I don’t label anything and I’ll be darned if I can figure out which plug is for what. With the controller I just tap on the “Heater” outlet and it goes off.
U guys have been a big help thanks. So much knowledge! So I do have future plans to upgrade. I have a 75g but no room to set it up yet. I talked to the wife nd tried my best to explain all that a controller can do. I was trying to sell her on the da rkl. Then I told her about the apex( I kno nothing about the reefangel). She said y not just get the one u can use ur phone for. So now I’m doing more research to decide between the jr or the classic. Biggest thing now is I am using 8 plugs. Jr only has 4. But ur saying I won’t need to plug my lights wave maker due to they have controllers nd my return shouldn’t b plug in to the controller either?
OK I would need some more info, but here is what I would do.
Start with just the plain Apex Jr. and a Break out box either theirs or DIY and a 5 pack of float switches
Skip the PM1 and PH Probe until you need it, i.e. when you add a douser or calcium reactor no need monitoring PH if you are not actively doing something that will effect it.
Now that being said if you plan on going full automation then a Apex or Reef Angel is the way to go as the Apex Jr is limited to 5 modules, but that being true they are still easy to sell second hand if you do need to upgrade later.
Plugs for your Apex Jr.
1 - heater ( temp control )
2 - ATO ( water level control )
3 - skimmer ( turn off if water level is to high or to low )
4 - TBD
