AWI Typhoon 3 Reefkeeper RODI ?

Ok, I bought this RODI from AWI a month ago or so, used it at my Dads house to fill his 75g tank w/ 25g sump. It seemed to work without any problems whatsoever, made pure what, that is what was important at the time. Now, I have brought it home and installed it in my crawlspace in its permanent spot. I started filling up 5g buckets a week ago or so to get ready to do a water change and noticed a vibration coming from the spot where I put the RODI. It happened about every 10 minutes or so. I also noticed that the entire time while making water at my Dads, that the waste water ran, regardless of whether we were making pure water or not. So I emailed AWI and asked them what they thought the problem was. They said it was probably the ASOV, and replaced it free of charge. I got it yesterday, put it on and almost immediately the same thing happened again, real bad vibration and constant waste water running. I’ve put a call in down to them to see what the issue was but I figured I’d ask on here to see if anyone else had a recurring issue with their RODI, AWI or not. Also, if you did have the problem, is there a way to fix it without waiting for another new ASOV? Is there something else I should look at that might be causing the issue? My water pressure is at like 65psi at its max and 40psi at its lowest. When I looked at how the ASOV was hooked up, it almost looked like the system was in a constant loop where water would just constantly loop over and over again. Kind of hard to explain, i’ll get a pic if i can tomorrow.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’m confused, waste water should always come out weather you are running it in the bypass mode to flush it or making pure water. When you are making pure water you should get about 3-4 gallons of waste water per gallon of pure water.

Perhaps I am misunderstanding your problem though.

Actually, what I was trying to say was, even if the RODI is not making any pure water at all, it is still producing waste water. The Flush Valve is in the “off” position.

Have you checked it after a few minutes of not making RODI water. I know mine will run for a few minutes after the float valve kicks off.

How do you have it installed ? if you are just using a pressure float vavle and no solenoid to shut off water supply then it will continue to push water through.

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:4, topic:3895”]
Have you checked it after a few minutes of not making RODI water. I know mine will run for a few minutes after the float valve kicks off.[/quote]

Yea, I have been checking it and it really does just run non stop, even hours after I shut off the valve that runs between the RODI and the float.

[quote=“Hudzon, post:5, topic:3895”]
How do you have it installed ? if you are just using a pressure float vavle and no solenoid to shut off water supply then it will continue to push water through.[/quote]

I bought the system from AWI in a kit, everything was already put together. They come with a ASOV (Auto Shut Off Valve) and I purchased a separate float valve. I am assuming the ASOV is supposed to shut off the water moving through the RODI when it feels backpressure from a valve turned off or when the float valve shuts off. There is no other solenoids or anything. I am sure that AWI doesn’t sell the unit as is with the knowledge that you are wasting almost 12gallons of water an hour, even when you aren’t making pure water, So a solenoid shouldn’t be needed, unless you consider the ASOV a solenoid.

Does the ASoV close the output of the system or the input?

The AWI ASOV close both sides of the RODI when there is back pressure from the pure side.

I’d call them and go over the set up. It could be something as stupid as the output from the pure side is too fr from the ASOV so the back pressure never gets strong enough to shut off the valve.

Did you pull all the little blue rings at all of the water connections?

I did talk with AWI again. The lady down there (Marissa I think?) said that she thinks it is probably a pressure issue. This RODI was sent with a 1 micron filter in the slot next to the RODI and she thinks that is so tightly wound that it isn’t allowing enough water pressure through in order to activate the RODI. So, she said to remove that filter from the system, and let it run for a couple of hours. She is sending me out a 5 micron filter to put in its place so that I keep the 5 stages.

Just odd that it worked fine for the first 36 hours or so that it was used (on a lower pressure water system) and as soon as I hook it up to my house with a higher pressure system it starts acting up. We’ll see this afternoon when I get home if removing the 1 micron filter does anything.

Do you have this hooked to a faucet or on a supply valve? Any pictures?

Since it worked well the first time I would suspect a few things but I am not an expert like AWI. I would open all the canisters and empty the water and reseal. Then I would check the connection at the faucet or supply valve. Since its a vibration I would suspect traped air or water pressure.

If it is a faucet connection are you adding air? Some faucets for wash sinks have an airator but also have threads after the airator and if you attach the connection after the airator it will add air to the system and cause vibrations. It could also be a poor connection and need nylon/teflon plumbers tape on the threads to stop the connection from drawing in air. If you force a high pressure flow past a loose connection it will leak water and draw air. The basis for a becket style skimmer. (My best guess)

If a filter was unseated during the transition water maybe forcing past the filter vs through the filter. Open canisters and check the seating. (2nd guess)

You said the water pressure was higher then your dads, did you test this or just assume based on water flow? Pipes and faucets can make the pressure look slower when it is higher and vis versa. They sell testers for $20 but I do not think you need to go here yet.

When all else fails take it back to where it worked and see if it still works. If it now has a vibration it narrows down what it is.

[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:3895”]
Do you have this hooked to a faucet or on a supply valve? Any pictures?[/quote]

I will get pictures tonight if things work out right when I get home.

[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:3895”]
If it is a faucet connection are you adding air? Some faucets for wash sinks have an airator but also have threads after the airator and if you attach the connection after the airator it will add air to the system and cause vibrations. It could also be a poor connection and need nylon/teflon plumbers tape on the threads to stop the connection from drawing in air. If you force a high pressure flow past a loose connection it will leak water and draw air. The basis for a becket style skimmer. (My best guess)[/quote]

It is hooked up through a supply valve at my house. While at my dads I had it hooked up through a garden hose hook up that we had attached to his clothes washer hookup. So I’d assume that takes this out of the equation?

[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:3895”]
If a filter was unseated during the transition water maybe forcing past the filter vs through the filter. Open canisters and check the seating. (2nd guess)[/quote]

The drive from my dad’s house to my hose was about 15 minutes, of which I had it secured pretty good so it would not have jarred or anything like that, but I guess there is a possibility that while I was moving in the crawlspace i may have jarred something just a little. Since I have to move the 1 micron filter anyway, I’ll probably get pretty soaked, I will undo the other filters as well just to make sure they are seated correctly.

[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:3895”]
You said the water pressure was higher then your dads, did you test this or just assume based on water flow? Pipes and faucets can make the pressure look slower when it is higher and vis versa. They sell testers for $20 but I do not think you need to go here yet.[/quote]

I am assuming that the water pressure is lower because the house was built in the 50s, however the pump and all the galvanized pipes were replaced about 15 or 20 years ago according to my Dad. According to the pressure gauge on the pump shut off, his PSI is somewhere between 40 and 45 at its max and 30 at its min. Where mine is about 65 and 45.

[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:3895”]
When all else fails take it back to where it worked and see if it still works. If it now has a vibration it narrows down what it is.[/quote]

I think if this new filter does not work, this is something I may have to do. I may also replace the pressure gauge on my house water system (or add a pressure gauge to the RODI just to make sure its not reading incorrectly. For all I know, the gauge could be off and the pressure may be above the 75psi max of the system even though its only reading 65 at its max.

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:8, topic:3895”]
The AWI ASOV close both sides of the RODI when there is back pressure from the pure side.

I’d call them and go over the set up. It could be something as stupid as the output from the pure side is too fr from the ASOV so the back pressure never gets strong enough to shut off the valve.

Did you pull all the little blue rings at all of the water connections?[/quote]

Do you mean pull out on the water lines after pushing them into the connections? I did do that when I first hooked everything up. I have worked for a long time with these same types of connections on air line so I am used to how they should work. I will go back and double check the lines though, just to make sure I didn’t forget to tighten down on any of the lines, it is very possible.

a couple of questions: 1. tempenture of the water going into the unit? cold water makes less pure, more waste. and 2. do you have carbon filters in the right order? having a typhon myself for a couple of years, it is important to have the 5 mircon (red color band on bottom ) before the 1 mircon.

[quote=“dropin, post:13, topic:3895”]
a couple of questions: 1. tempenture of the water going into the unit? cold water makes less pure, more waste. and 2. do you have carbon filters in the right order? having a typhon myself for a couple of years, it is important to have the 5 mircon (red color band on bottom ) before the 1 mircon.[/quote]

  1. Temp of the water is probably 52deg plus/minus since its well water and straight out of the ground. But i am not really complaining about how much water it makes, I am actually VERY happy with that.

  2. I am using the system just like it was sent to me from AWI. Looking at the front of the system, from left to right, is DI, then a filter with red caps (assuming 5 micron?), then a filter with no color, then a 3rd filter with no colors. Here is a picture of the system from the front:

Doesn’t really give a good idea of what is where though. Just that the only one with any color to it is the 2nd from the left, which has red caps.

did a little digging on this and AWI RODI units hae a check vavle built into the outlet of the RO housing and they can get stuck causing the ASOV to stop working. They have an inline replacement available.

Well, patience really is a virtue. I check the waste line a few minutes ago and… nothing… seems that the ASOV finally decided to start working after I let it sit for a few hours. No vibration, no constant waste water running even when it isn’t making water.

When I got home yesterday I disconnected every single line on the system and reconnected them making sure they had a good fit. I also opened the 3 stages of RO, pulled the filters out and reseated everything.

Not sure if it was that, or if I just needed to have a little patience with it. Regardless, it all seems to be working as it is supposed to. Making about 2 to 2.5 gallons of water an hour also. I found out the hard way it was making it faster than i was expecting… had to clean up some water that had overflowed out of the bucket i was putting it in… oops…

[quote=“ihuntinde, post:16, topic:3895”]
had to clean up some water that had overflowed out of the bucket i was putting it in… oops…[/quote]

Well glad it started working for you. Like I said I had the same issue, after shutting of the RO I noticed the waste line still running, turns out it was just the left-over.

But aren’t you using a float valve in the bucket to shut off the RO unit when the container is full? That’s the only way an ASOV will work and keep your floors dry.

Yes, I put a float valve in my sump so that I didn’t have to keep doing top offs, but when I overran the bucket I was making water for a water change. I don’t have a spot for a bigger container, so instead I use 4 5 gallon buckets that I mix all my water in.

I am starting to look for a larger container, but I am also going to try to do water changes every 2 weeks now instead of once a month (or maybe a little longer… verdict_in)

I know I read a post somewhere about containers that we can use, now I just gotta find it and see if there is somewhere close that sells em.

looking at your picture, the water flows right to left, with the first filter being a seditment , seconde filter should be the 5 micron and the third the one micron carbon block. it will work with them reversed, but it will clog sooner.do some reading and you will find that rodi machines work best with the water around 70 degrees or so.using well water could have more seditment in it ,so watch the first filter as it will clog quickly.

I am not real sure that the 5 micron is where you are saying it should be, but I am not real sure I have a 1 micron filter in this system. From what AWI said, the 1 micro filter has a yellow cap on it, and I do not have a filter with a yellow cap on it. I have two that are white and one that is red. So I think they are in the correct order for the filters that I have.

I will take a better picture of it and post it if need be.

I also understand how the RODI system should work. The paperwork that came with the system says for ever 1 degree below 70 (i think) the system loses 1.3% efficiency. So I have a decent handle on how the system works and how much water it should be making.