Clam under T5s

I am thinking of getting a clam for my tank. From what I understand these aren’t actually that hard of a creature to keep, their main need is lighting, correct? What are their requirements as far as water quality go? What type of light range are they looking for? I have no idea what kind of clam I want to get yet, but I assume different species have different needs.
Can anyone chime in who has clams?
I know someone (Icy?) posted a link on information on clams recently, I’ll find that and research it up myself, but I’d like to hear from you guys who have clams.

Muchos Gracious

With a resident clam expert, i wont even attempt to give advice. Hopefully Chris will catch this thread and chime in.

If i were you, i would check out this forum.

http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/

For what its worth, i keep a maxima and a crocea. IMO these are VERY easy animals to keep and grow like crazy in my tank. They should be attached to rock which would probably make them ideal for a T5 tank since you can place them closerer to the lighting. I have mine at about the midpoint in my tank under 250MH. From what i understand, a resonable amount of nitrates are actually benefical to clams. I would just make sure your tank is stable and that your keeping Ca/Mg/Alk stable and close to NSW levels.

I agree with the above - with Chris becoming more active on the boards I will let him take this one.

With that said, I think Icy keeps a Maxima on his sand bed under T5s.

I have crocea’s under my 6x54w T5 lights. I actually kept him under 96w PCs over the summer while I was at the beach. Some clams are very hardy, it all depends on where they come from (depth) wise. I am no expert though, so I will let the clam expert take over le-frog

[quote=“logans_daddy, post:2, topic:930”]
http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/[/quote]

Beat me to it! I dropped Chris a quick PM on RAF. You really should check out RAF for clam info. There’s a lot of it there.

Ok, this may be a little long for my usual posts but here it goes:

Clams are generally regarded in the hobby as very difficult to keep, however most of the deaths may very well result from shipping stress, and not to the animals being particulally hard to keep. Once clams are established in a system (more than 2 months or so), they can be very durable inhabitants and are actually able to tolerate wide ranges in temperature as well as levels of other water quality parameters that are deemed questionable for other invertebrates such as corals. There are 6 species of clams that are commonly found in the hobby:

Tridacna gigas: The true “Giant Clam”, these monsters can grow to over 1.5 meters in length and growth is extremely fast. While they are hardy, the adult size makes them poor choices for anything but the largest systems. These are generally tolerant of a wide range of lighting and prefer to sit on the sand bed.

Tridacna derasa: The next largest clam in the family, derasa clams also have exceptionally fast growth when they have the correct environment. These clams are tolerant of the lowest lighting, commonly thriving under PC lights. Like gigas, these clams prefer to rest on a sand bed when they are fully grown and their byssal threads that will hold them to rocks as juveniles will detach as they grow.

Tridacna squamosa: The third and final of the sand clams, this clam also happens to grow to the third largest size and has an exceptional growth rate, just like T. gigas and T. derasa. Like the other two sand clams, T. squamosa is tolerant of lower light conditions than some of its relatives.

Tridacna maxima: maxima clams are the first of the “rock clams”, which maintain a byssal thread connection to hard substrate thought their life. maxima can grow to a decent size, however the growth rate is slower than that of the “sand clams”. maxima clams generally require higher light, but under the correct conditions can thrive. Identification of maxima clams is relatively easy from their scalloped shell, which is more distinct in this species than any of the others.

Tridacna crocea: The smallest of the clams, crocea clams are also a “rock clam”. While they are relatively small compared to their other family members, they make up for the size in relatively bright coloration. They have a moderate growth rate and are fairly light dependent.

Hippopus hippopus: The hippopus, or horses hoof clam, is a fairly new appearance in the aquacultured clam industry. Unlike the Tridacna sp. clams, the hippopus clams do not extend their mantle past their shell. If I remember correctly, they are a “rock clam” and medium on the light scale.

In our tank, we have a derasa clam that is approx. 5 years old. He has grown significantly since we have had him the past year or so, however like most clams the majority of the growth occurs when they are younger, so if you buy a small clam don’t expect it will stay that way for long. As long as calcium levels are within an acceptable range, and lighting is adequate for the species in question, they should be fine and are great additions to any system.

Just as a side note: smaller clams do NOT need supplemental feeding. There is a common misconception that smaller clams need to be fed phytoplankton, however small clams can survive just fine without it. It does increase the growth rate of smaller clams, however is not necessary.

What size tank do you have?

What light fixture do you have? Number of bulbs and do you have individual reflectors for each bulb?

What bulb combination do you have?

What fish do you have and what fish do you think you might add in the future?

What crabs and snails do you have?

As for water quality, clams are reef inhabitants and would require the same water quality as any other shallow reef inhabitant.

Icys description is a fair description except for the grouping of some clams as “sand clams” or “rock clams”. All the Tridacnid clams are most commonly found right up on the reef. How the sand clam rock clam thing got started i dont know but it doesn’t match up with any reef surveys I’ve ever seen. Clams are plank-tonic in their larval stage and at the mercy of the currents untill go through metamorphosis and settle out. If one of these very small juvenile clams were to land in a sand flat (which they do) they would be quickly covered and killed by moving sands. In some very sheltered areas clams can be found on the sand but this is more the exception then the rule.

With all that said this really doesn’t amount to anything as far as keeping clams in an aquarium. You can place any of the species anywhere you like as long as the lighting is strong enough. Also some clam species are able to handle lower light levels then others but i would classify them all as needing high light intensity.

The best clam for someone new to clam keeping would be derasa followed by squamosa then crocea. The hardest of the clams to keep would be maxima.

I would also recommend investing in a QT system and doing a proper QT on any clam you buy. A QT can be set up quickly and cheaply. This will show you what you need to do http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/quick-easy-clam-qt-and-acclimation-t1911.html

I would also review this thread so you know so you know what to look for and how to handle the most common parasite to tridacnids Fish Supply Guide

Now a last word of caution. I would avoid any clams comming from Vietnam at this time and if you must have one from this area or that has been held in a holding system with clams from this area, a strict QT of at least 4 weeks should be done.

Also this should help in IDing the different species http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/tridacnid-clam-id-made-easy-t1994.html

First of all thank you to both Chris_Barb and Icy for your wealth of quick knowledge.

Chris_Barb I’ve answered your questions in your post (below)

[quote=“Chris_Barb, post:7, topic:930”]
What size tank do you have?[/quote]
55g soon (next 2-3 weeks) 75g

What light fixture do you have? Number of bulbs and do you have individual reflectors for each bulb?
Home made "fixture". Currently 4 but will be 6 bulbs on the 75. IceCap SLR reflectors for each bulb. Driven by standard Sylvania QTP ballasts (not overdriven)
What bulb combination do you have?
Front Brand Name Light Range UVL Actinic White "10k" UVL Super Actinic 420nm UVL AquaSun "12k" Current Actinic 460nm
What fish do you have and what fish do you think you might add in the future?
Current: (1) Tomato Clown (1) Blue Damsel (2) 3 stripe damsel (1) Zebra Goby Future: ?Not sure. I am not a fan of "aggressive" fish. No serious plans for any fish maybe a Koran Angel, but there are plenty of reasons not to get that fish for this tank.
What crabs and snails do you have?
(2) Emerald Crabs (?) Hermits (1) Money Cowney (1) Lettuce Nudibranch (1) Fighting Conch (1) Turbo Snail (2") (1) Turbin Snail (1.5") (3-6) Nass. Snails (1) Astrae (sp?) Snail (2?) Cerith Snails (4) Ninja Star (Astrae) Snails (1) Stomatella snail (I think) Others: (1) Brittle Star (2) Peppermint Shrimp (1) Cleaner Shrimp
As for water quality, clams are reef inhabitants and would require the same water quality as any other shallow reef inhabitant.

Icys description is a fair description except for the grouping of some clams as “sand clams” or “rock clams”. All the Tridacnid clams are most commonly found right up on the reef. How the sand clam rock clam thing got started i dont know but it doesn’t match up with any reef surveys I’ve ever seen. Clams are plank-tonic in their larval stage and at the mercy of the currents untill go through metamorphosis and settle out. If one of these very small juvenile clams were to land in a sand flat (which they do) they would be quickly covered and killed by moving sands. In some very sheltered areas clams can be found on the sand but this is more the exception then the rule.

With all that said this really doesn’t amount to anything as far as keeping clams in an aquarium. You can place any of the species anywhere you like as long as the lighting is strong enough. Also some clam species are able to handle lower light levels then others but i would classify them all as needing high light intensity.

The best clam for someone new to clam keeping would be derasa followed by squamosa then crocea. The hardest of the clams to keep would be maxima.

I would also recommend investing in a QT system and doing a proper QT on any clam you buy. A QT can be set up quickly and cheaply. This will show you what you need to do http://www.reefaquariumforum.com/quick-easy-clam-qt-and-acclimation-t1911.html

I would also review this thread so you know so you know what to look for and how to handle the most common parasite to tridacnids Fish Supply Guide

Now a last word of caution. I would avoid any clams comming from Vietnam at this time and if you must have one from this area or that has been held in a holding system with clams from this area, a strict QT of at least 4 weeks should be done.

So I take it I could keep any of these in either the sand or on rock and the only req. being adequate lighting, and normal (decent) water quality.

[quote=“Chris_Barb, post:7, topic:930”]
Now a last word of caution. I would avoid any clams comming from Vietnam at this time and if you must have one from this area or that has been held in a holding system with clams from this area, a strict QT of at least 4 weeks should be done.[/quote]

OK I gotta ask. Why avoid clams from Vietnam?

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:10, topic:930”]

[quote=“Chris_Barb, post:7, topic:930”]
Now a last word of caution. I would avoid any clams comming from Vietnam at this time and if you must have one from this area or that has been held in a holding system with clams from this area, a strict QT of at least 4 weeks should be done.[/quote]

OK I gotta ask. Why avoid clams from Vietnam?[/quote]

They are still angry about the war and will stage “Charlies” in your tank, hidden in the rockwork.

I belive it has to do with a virus that they can transmit to the other clams, but that is about 4th hand information.

Chris - The “sand clam” vs “rock clam” is something I dont agree with either, but I was using the names to distinguish between ones that keep their byssal threads all of their life (“rock clams”) and those that lose them as they grow older (“sand clams”).

I would however hesitat to place a clam that does not have byssal threads high up on the rock. Our clam frequently expels water to clear out anything trapped inside (such as brine shrimp that we feed the rest of the tank), and I have seen it move from the force of this several times. If the clam was high up on the rockwork, it could fall pretty easily from such a movement.

That lighting setup should be fine.

The problem is that clams from that area could carry a highly contagious protozoan. A new regulation was passed a few months ago that all imported Tridacnid clams need to be tested and have a health certificate but AFIK not every single clam has to be tested.

[quote=“icy1155, post:13, topic:930”]
I would however hesitat to place a clam that does not have byssal threads high up on the rock. Our clam frequently expels water to clear out anything trapped inside (such as brine shrimp that we feed the rest of the tank), and I have seen it move from the force of this several times. If the clam was high up on the rockwork, it could fall pretty easily from such a movement.[/quote]

I’d rather keep the clam on the sand anyway, I think they look cooler down there.

[quote=“Chris_Barb, post:14, topic:930”]
That lighting setup should be fine.

The problem is that clams from that area could carry a highly contagious protozoan. A new regulation was passed a few months ago that all imported Tridacnid clams need to be tested and have a health certificate but AFIK not every single clam has to be tested.[/quote]

Chris, thanks for the info mation and blessing of my lights

OK this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but I’m going to ask it anyway:

Is it possible to have too much light for a crocea clam? (6 lamp T5s individual reflectors)

I picked one up yesterday and initially placed it about 1/2 way up the rock work. All was good. For reasons not related to the clam I tore the whole tank apart this morning, I could not remove the clam from the rock I initially placed it on as it had set it’s foot. Well when I rescaped the tank the spot the clam was sitting ended up closer to the top of the tank, it doesn’t seem to be opening as much now as it was when I first put it in.

I’m chalking it up to stress from tearing everything down and moving everything around. but is it possible the light is too strong?

It should be fine with that amount of light, it may just be getting used to it. I have seen them directly atop a reef tank (about 6" below water level) that ran 400W MH’s. It probably just needs to adjust the increased light and should be fine shortly.

OK this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but I'm going to ask it anyway:

Is it possible to have too much light for a crocea clam? (6 lamp T5s individual reflectors)

No (with in reason of course)these animals come for areas that sit right on the equator and are found in very shallow water. They can surcome to light shock if not properly acculumated however.

I think they had some crocea’s at dpa I was tempted to get on saturday, but strayed as I suppose I should look for a derasa or a squamosa per Chris’s suggestions.