Coral help

“U still don’t know who u are talking to yet I’m there all the and 99% of what is in tank u recomended and was purchased at DPA”

I knew who you were after the first post.

“that kinda look like spiders” look for pictures of Zoa Spiders or Sea Spiders(Pycnogonid).

Any pictures would be extremely helpful.

By now you have to understand there is a lot of things going on in your tank and it is too complicated for me to give you a precise answer to specifically treat the problem you are having based on, “my corals are not looking good at all they look like they are dying”.

I have heard you say you have moved several things in and out of QT. How often are you moving things? Explain the set up in the qt tank. Please also check and post all the water parameters of your qt tank.

Sorry if I missed something, I am late for work, I’ll check the boards tonight and post more questions for you we can figure out exactly what is going on.
Jon

What are some of the things I should be doing? I get all levels at least once a week but usually do it twice a week. I took it slow waiting until DPA said it was ok only bought from highly recommended places like dr macs, dr fosters and DPA oh and got two clownfish from Greenbank. I am always watching tank very close so if something were to change I know what it was like or catch the problem in time. I am a little confused about what buffers to use and if I need reef builder as well. What other products should I be using like trace elements, or stronium Im still not sure on what is the best to use and add to my 24g reef tank. I Just want to make sure I am providing the corals what they need to be healthy. Is there a all in buffer that helps with maintaing calicum and kh & gh or is better to use seperate

I know u need pics but I don’t know how to shrink them to fit

The corals are turning brown and shrinking up. They are not opening and only moved once which was from main to at I just did certain corals at a time and in small amounts to avoid issues. It’s a 10 glass tank with live rock and sand a hang on filter and one powerhead it’s not really at I was going to use it for ref and I just put live rock in about 2 weeks I had dead spots in main tank so took out few pieces of lr and put in 10g

As for lighting I am using stock lid and bulbs. I did upgrade to outer orbit hqi but my temps got to 84 with fan so after 4 days of trying different things I returned it and went back to the stock lid but they were doing well with that light

As far as what buffers additives etc to dose. Always remember that it’s never a good idea to dose anything you can’t test for.

Consistent weekly water changes will provide all of the trace elements that your tank needs. it’s not until you start keeping a large CUC (clean up crew) or LPS or SPS corals that you really need to worry too much about dosing calcium etc.

If you have a need (i.e. low PH) then it would be acceptable to dose to correct a low parameter. Such as using kent marines Pro Reef Buffer 8.3 PH. I have found this to provide diead on accurate PH, as well as good calcium and alkalinity levels.

Trace elements, minerals, vitamins etc will all be replaced with your water changes, doesn’t hurt to add a LITTLE BIT occasionally, but they’re really not needed if water changes are up to par.

How long ago did you swap the lights back and forth?

It’s been a good month to month and a half since I changed lighting

I do a 10% water change weekly and I use to water. What cuc will loosen sand with slime we have 3 turbo snails, and a few hermit crabs and they r never in sand cleaning always on of and snails just make a mess

I also have a bak-pak 2r+ protien skimmer and so far works great I had the nano fission that thing was more of pia then anything. What about vitmin c for clown fish I was reading an article and it mentioned vit c just curious what people thought about it

[quote=“dnc15, post:29, topic:1024”]
I do a 10% water change weekly and I use to water. What cuc will loosen sand with slime we have 3 turbo snails, and a few hermit crabs and they r never in sand cleaning always on of and snails just make a mess[/quote]

Cerith and Nessareus snails are good for turning a sand bed, as are sand sifting star fish.

[quote=“dnc15, post:30, topic:1024”]
What about vitmin c for clown fish I was reading an article and it mentioned vit c just curious what people thought about it[/quote]

I’ve never used vitamin C for clowns. not sure what benefit it provides, will need to research. I ave kept multople types of clowns for years and have seen no ill effects from lack of vitamin C supplement.

I think you’re issue with the corals is ging to be related to light and flow. Probably shocked them with a quiick change to bright light, then they spent the next month trying to reacclimate to lower lighting. Lack of direct flow prevents getting enough food to the corals to keep them happy.

Have you tried spot feeding DT’s or Oyster Eggs with a turkey baster yet?

Okay, here I go…

Some will disagree, but here is my input-- Stop putting things in your tank. Don’t dose ANYTHING. You started with a small tank, larger would have been easier to control, and slower to crash. A tank the size of yours will never need dosed with anything. The Pineapple tree is non-photosynthetic right? I’d give that one away. You need to start out with corals that will live without being fed. This includes a huge variety of soft, and LPS corals. No need to jump into something too soon. The feeding may trigger ammonia spikes, which will lead to increased stress on fish and corals. The up and down dosing will make you go apeshit. Just do a huge water change (Use regular ol’ instant ocean, no need for the fancy stuff yet), be prepared for another minor cycle, and start again. I’m sure the good folks at DPA had your best interest at heart, but they also have to sell things to stay in business. Maybe the additives will help your tank, just not right now.

  1. Big water change
  2. NO DOSING ANYTHING
  3. Give away the pineapple (& any other non-photosynthetics you have) for now
  4. Bi-weekly water changes (give the inhabitants a break, consider how invasive this process would be in your home)

Less is more. Good luck!

Joe

I would slightly agree with Joe in the fact of just slow down, it sounds like you are moving things around changing things. Even when things are out of wack you should move them back into line slowly. Nothing happens fast except for bad things.

" am a little confused about what buffers to use and if I need reef builder as well. What other products should I be using like trace elements, or stronium Im still not sure on what is the best to use and add to my 24g reef tank. I Just want to make sure I am providing the corals what they need to be healthy. "

Most of us try to throw a lot of chemicals and foods and money at our tanks to start with and end up with a closest full of chemicals we never use. Most of the chemicals you can over dose and hurt much more then you are helping. I know I’ve said it before and perhaps some others will chime in and agree, “If you don’t test for it, don’t add it.” You don’t yet have a strontium kit so that should stay on the shelf. Sorry to say that most of the chemicals you have purchased… probably a waste of money.
“I also have a bak-pak 2r+ protien skimmer”
How often does the skimate cup fill up?

I have two clown fish I’ve had for three years, two more I’ve had for a year and about 50-60 more I’ve had for a couple hours.(new thread about that soon:-D )

Joe, “The Pineapple tree is non-photosynthetic right? I’d give that one away.”
I don’t believe they are entirely non-photosynthetic or impossible to keep. She probably has a better chance of keeping it alive then most of us actually. Not to sound sexist, but women are much better feeders then guys. You do have an extremely valid point though that the extra food for non-photosynthetic such as sun coral or deep water gorgonians, but… well another common name for Capnella Sp. is…. Kenya tree. This is a slightly different species then the common Kenya Tree we see most often, but very similar in care requirements as far as I understand.(and it is prettier to in my opinion)

Joe “but they also have to sell things to stay in business.” I have ALWAYS hated LFS and the advice they give. It is a shame too because trust me when I say any LFS can do very well suggesting people do the right thing for there tanks. People often don’t listen to me and say they don’t really need that expensive skimmer thing and then turn back to another LFS and buy chemicals… but they also often return later after finding the internet and realize I was right. If they don’t, they probably didn’t really care enough and won’t be in the hobby long anyways. I won’t jump on the soap box too much, but you can ask anyone I have helped out at the store, I usually talk people out of more then I talk them into. It is possible to get good advice at an LFS if you visit the right ones. :wink:

THE PLAN:
Unfortunately, looking at the images of her tank today at the shop, leaving things alone and taking her hands out of the tank now would be worse then starting over and she would for sure lose everything. The zoanthids, and possibly mushroom, have been over run with a bacterial or protozoan infection most likely. I recommended using a coral dip under the max time(10min) with normal dosage. After the dosage they are to be placed back into the tank up off the sand and in slightly higher flow.(closer to current power heads and one additional power head will be added) If things didn’t dramatically change for the better in 48 hours she will repeat it again with twice the dosage(by package instructions). We also said that the corals would not be moved around too much, so they get a chance to settle. After that we will give them a while to improve and closely monitor and take things step by step. We also plan on dramatically cutting back on the feeding for time being, but spot feeding the Duncan 8 mysis for a little extra energy.

We came up with a short term plan(next 3-4 days) and a long run plan including careful feeding and a tank upgrade in the near future. Luckily this hobbyist didn’t simply get her information at just a plain old LFS and found us here at the DRC.

Keep us up to date!

Wow that was a long post. Hope I got everything.

MORE is not always better. Usually , Just right… is enough. or as Mark Twain was fond of quoting: All things in moderation, including …moderation.

So strive to find the correct amount to keep things happy.

I just want to clear up something I don’t use chemicals I think if it can be done naturally that is best…I was just curious about all the products and what others were using I’m new to this and am gathering info.I want nothing else but healthy enviroment and I knew my main tank was not healthy which is why I moved coral and it is doing much better in the at. DPA does not just sell u things they r the only store that doesn’t and I love that and appreciate that. When u r new and asking questions about what u need and is best u want someone to tell u if u need it and DPA has done that foe me more then once saved me slot of money and they r probably the only store that does everything chemical free for as long as possible. They steered me away from that before I even had tank setup and only thing I use is supper buffer to maintain and I haven’t used it since the tank started with issues and every once in a while I would add purple up which I will no longer be using. I knew I had to move corals when I seen them I am very aware of what goes on in my tank I am firm believer if ur going to do it, do it the correct way. Which is why I am asking all kinds of questions and everyone has VERY helpful and just want to thank everyone for helping me and giving me the info to be better

I went to pet Kate tonite with my mom she needed dog food so I walked her around to the fish and it was horrible to see the fish like. The tanks they have r way to small and the poor fish are not cared for. When u walk in DPA u can tell they honestly care for their animals. They are my number one store and I wouldn’t buy a fish from any other LFS

By the way jon checked levels in at and they were good it had a touch of nitrite so I replaced filter and I’ll do 10% water change prob less it is due for it’s weekly water change. Then I’ll retest test tomorrow I also tested right after I fed them. I just did the normal testing is there any certain testing I need to do besides the basic testing kit

Hey Jon, no offense meant, but if you didn’t sell things you wouldn’t be in business. That’s all I was getting at. That’s what a store does. The reef club is another matter, so you have a tight line to walk. I’m not mad at you.

What is the benefit of keeping the animals in a ten gallon QT when the display is only twice that size? Why not just change the water and start over? If there could be a worse scenario for someone inexperienced with the hobby than having a small tank and keeping the parameters in check, it’s having a tiny tank and keeping the parameters in check. Also, if I read correctly

[quote=“dnc15, post:24, topic:1024”]
It’s a 10 glass tank with live rock and sand a hang on filter and one powerhead it’s not really at I was going to use it for ref and I just put live rock in about 2 weeks I had dead spots in main tank so took out few pieces of lr and put in 10g[/quote]So this isn’t really a QT. It’s a tiny tank built from her larger tank. I don’t see how any of this is good for the fish/corals. That’s why I said to do a large water change and let things calm down for a cople of weeks.

DNC15- Ask around a bit and every reefer on here (excluding SPS keepers) will tell you that the times their tank looks the best are when they forget a water change and it’s been three weeks. Give it some recovery time.

I know the tank is not realty at the tanknwas supposed to be used as refugium that’s why it has sand lr. However one clown fish had gotten a infection so took lr out and Pvc pipe. I was storing lr in bucket until safe to put back in tank. The filter is on just to keep everything cleaned since the tank was so small didn’t want levels to get sky high. The clown fish has been in clear to put back in main tank but then issues started so. I just moved other fish to smaller rank as it was having difficult time breathing. That’s what my plans are to leave it alone but couldn’t just let everything if I could help it. As soon as I’m done the dip and levels r good and get all cleared trust me I am leaving it alone I have been working extremely hard to be able to do that and ley it thrive. I was aware that smaller tanks were harder but it is extremely hard was doing great for 4 months so I can do it but I will upgrading.to 65g to make things better and less stressfull for me and corals. The new tank is re and I will probably have within 2 weeks I have already order the tank and can’t wait to get it. We had decided on 24g due to limited space and the cost but the 65 will just fit and the cost well will equal out in a week with all the time ur will save not working with such a limited space will be nice