I have redish slime Algee in my frag tank and my sump.it hasn’t made it to the dt yet. What causes this hand how do I get rid of it?
check your water, and have you changed your salt brand lately?
I have good luck using Chemi-clean
Yes,no nitrates,0.14 phos,cal is 500,alk is 7.9, no same reef crystals as always.led lights,light cycle has been the same for months.i will need a lot of chemi clean as I have about 400gal
J- Could be from your new lights yeah?
New lights on the dt,not the frag tank. Did you get salt yet?your due for a change.
yeah i need salt too need to make an order
Sorry guys i haven’t ordered salt yet. Had a lot going on here recently with family. I plan to order it on pay day though.
Chemiclean 6g enough for 900 gals.
Some things to check is your RODI make sure your still at 0 TDS and your RO storage and ATO containers for any slime build up on the sides.
I would take a more holistic approach to dealing with this problem. There are a number of conditions that will cause this problem, individually/collectively, and although one may be the overriding factor, I’d approach each one as a primary, or contributing factor. Starting with using good RO/DI water, if you’re not using it, you’ll be adding the needed nutrients every time you top off, and/or do a WC.
Here is a good article worth reading(although a little dated):
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
Are you doing any carbon dosing, i.e. Vodka, Vinegar, bio-pellets, etc.?
Are you using any GFO? PO4 @ .14 is a little high, you want to get it down to .03. What are you using to measure your PO4?
The use of “Red Slime Removersâ€ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ, can work in the short term, but if the issues that generated it are not resolved, it will simply keep reoccurring.
I don’t like using it, and would make every effort to solve the problem by other means, as noted in the attached article. I know of a couple circumstances where someone lost their system due to a sudden die off of the red slime algae(BGA) releasing toxins into the water.
Here is some more reading, when they are talking about blue-green (cyano) algea, they are referring to cyano bacteria, typically seen as red slime in our systems.
http://forums.tfhmagazine.com/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=24749
If your NO3 is truly ‘0’, you may have some success by dosing some Sodium Nitrate to get that number up a bit, i.e. 2-3ppm. I would do a search on google or RC for more info on this.
“If your NO3 is truly ‘0’, you may have some success by dosing some Sodium Nitrate to get that number up a bit, i.e. 2-3ppm. I would do a search on google or RC for more info on this.”
I noticed that if I get my PO3 down to 0 my PO4 will start creeping up to .08 .10, when I keep it around 5 my PO4 stays around .04
I have been using ro for yrs now.filters and di have been changed and tds is always checked when I make fresh water. I use rox carbon 24-7 that I change monthly. I also use gfo that is also changed monthly. My phosphates have always been where they are,(atleast 2yrs) without this problem.
I will look in my topoff tub for any life. I do agree about not using chemicals until I use all other choices. And yes I had a 75g fug full of greens that I had to split up because the cheato got too big for that tank. I noticed then when my nitrates dropped to almost nothing the greens started dying off. But not the cheato. All the live stock looks fine in all of the tanks. Just this slime in the frag tank and growing on the cheato in the sump.
You can try dosing peroxide, I used to do it a long time ago and it does the trick well IMO.
1ml / 10 gallons.
It does irritate zoanthids that I’ve noticed and some other random soft corals (causes them to close up) but after about 20 mins or so, they open back up just fine.
Todd is this a one time thing? Or as needed?
[quote=“BigCase, post:7, topic:7425”]
Sorry guys i haven’t ordered salt yet. Had a lot going on here recently with family. I plan to order it on pay day though.[/quote]
You have family there?lol thought the better half was going south for a few weeks?
It’s a daily thing, at least that’s how I used to do it. Kind of like dosing vodka.
Yeah they are in NC now. Just some family stuff back home. Lost my uncle last week and was rough on the FAM.
[quote=“beadlocked450r, post:14, topic:7425”]
[quote=“BigCase, post:7, topic:7425”]
Sorry guys i haven’t ordered salt yet. Had a lot going on here recently with family. I plan to order it on pay day though.[/quote]
You have family there?lol thought the better half was going south for a few weeks?[/quote]
Sorry about that. I also heard about the dogs too. That really sux!
hi jason, i think i just solved a similar cyano, brown slime, red slime algae problem in the old frag tank. havent done a water change in months, but fixed the bio filter. reseeded it. a couple months ago, Marty had Les Wilson, of Cobalt aquatics give a presentation at the FW club meeting. he spent a good deal of time and slide show on bacteria research he did as a marine biologist way back with Tetra. they isolated and patented the real nitrifying bacteria and developed the culture proceedure. most bacteria doses are apparently the wrong ones. their patents were sold and are now in instant oceans Bio-Spira and Dr. Times One and Only bacteria booster.
these are the strains that grow as thin bio film on all surfaces in the tank. not the water column. i got a small bottle of Bio-spira from DPA a few weeks ago and have been dosing a couple cap fulls a week. the difference has been amazing. slime stopped, i cleaned it off and filtered it out, stirred the sand and increased skimming. its getting really clean. time for a water change now. you might try it. it doesnt seem to be growing back. Ive had that slime for more than a year. this is great.
try some of the bio-spira instant start up booster for new tanks. a little pricey, but seems to have worked for me. im trying it in the other old gunky tanks now too. takes a while for the culture to build up in the tank and sand.
Thanks ken I will give it a try
Yeah, I hope it works for you too. I hate Slime! once it gts started, its hare to get it out. but i do think biology is the solution.