Cycling tank

As I am new got a few questions about cycling my tank.

Ronert gave me some fish food (flake) to start my cycle. I added it last night. This morning the water was cloudy. I think the ammonia test read 5 ppm. It was really hard to guess the color. It was different from the 0 ppm of last night.

So around noon today I added the bottle of starter bacteria that I picked up at my LFS.

Right now there is no LR in the system but it will be added soon I hope.
Ok so my questions are
(1) what sort of ammonia spike should I see?
(2) how do I rinse off the prefilter for my pump? Before I put in the bacteria I rinsed it in tap water then RO water.

Right now I am thinking 3-4 weeks adding a small cleanup crew (as long as the ammonia and nitrite levels are down) and 3-4 weeks after that adding my first fish or two.

So it sounds like I will be testing everyday now.

First of get some LR in the soon as possible as it will increase the biodiversity of bacteria and microfauna in your aquarium and help with the cycling process. Getting biologically alive water and sand is not too difficult, but you want all the die off in the LR to happen and be handled by the system. If you cycle your water for 6 weeks to prepare for animals and then add all your live rock at once… you really need to wait at least another month to let your tank cycle. (In My Opinion)

Daily testing is for sure important. Test Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate and record all the results in a log.(I used Microsoft excel, but just a little scratch notebook will work)

At this point you may not see much ammonia any more as it may have been converted into Nitrite. After you have the majority of LR in your tank try adding prawn, krill, table/cocktail shrimp, silver sides, or something of the sort(meaty fleshy aquatic animal to rot away in your tank and cause a spike in ammonia) Since you have already had some level of ammonia processed in your tank before this time it may happen fairly quickly. I would not recommend adding any live animals to your tank(besides bacteria and rock) until the tank has sat for at least a month after your ammonia spike and at least a week after your Nitrate has returned to 0ppm. Some people may argue you can add animals when your Nitrates are below 20ppm, but trust me you want your tank to be able to process Nitrates well before you are adding fish and food or your tank may struggle to keep up with the waste.

Again all of this is my opinion and you will find marine tanks have been set up in many millions of different ways.

I wouldn’t spend much time on the forums on this website, but this is a good article to read through if you haven’t already.

Also as far as adding a clean up crew I would not do that first. Higher invertebrate life such as snails, hermits, and crabs are more sensitive to water chemistry fluctuation then hardy soft corals and fish. You can add a couple of hermit crabs, but I would steer clear of snails. I know a lot of people add snails early to eat algae, but I would be shocked if you could find a single reefer who can say they never lost a snail during there first 6 months of running an aquarium.

If you are moving towards a reef I would personally add zoanthids first, then mushrooms(if desired), then hermit crabs, then fish, then snails…. Suppose it really depends on what you want to put in there.

What size tank? What is your salinity and temp? What do you have in the tank for water movement? What sort of filtration?(I would personally leave off skimmers and remove carbon during at least the first three weeks of the cycling process)

Hope this helps.

[quote=“Gordonious, post:2, topic:1055”]
First of get some LR in the soon as possible as it will increase the biodiversity of bacteria and microfauna in your aquarium and help with the cycling process. [/quote]

Couldn’t agree more. the sooner you add rock the sooner you will complete your cycle and can begin adding fish.

[quote=“Gordonious, post:2, topic:1055”]
you want your tank to be able to process Nitrates well before you are adding fish and food or your tank may struggle to keep up with the waste. [/quote]

The amount of time it will take to grow enough anaerobic bacteria for a new system to handle nitrates would mean she could not add fish for many months.

Once your Nitrates stop going up start doing water changes to bring Nitrates down. Continue daily water changes until Nitrates reach zero. The most effective way to reduce nitrates in a new system is removal through water changes.

[quote=“Gordonious, post:2, topic:1055”]
I would personally leave off skimmers …[/quote]

Only until LR is added, you want to be able to remove as much organic waste (LR die off) as possible to prevent your levels from getting too high and killing off previous stages bacteria (i.e. nitrites getting so high they kill off ammonia reducing bacteria)

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:3, topic:1055”]

[quote=“Gordonious, post:2, topic:1055”]
I would personally leave off skimmers …[/quote]

Only until LR is added, you want to be able to remove as much organic waste (LR die off) as possible to prevent your levels from getting too high and killing off previous stages bacteria (i.e. nitrites getting so high they kill off ammonia reducing bacteria)[/quote]

Very good point to bring up, especially if it is uncured stuff. This could be personal opinion as well as case by case bases. If you get all your rock from local reefers or real actual cured rock from an LFS then I don’t think a skimmer would be important during the first month. If you order the rock online(usually ridiculously expensive) or buy uncured rock from an LFS then I would use the skimmer for sure.

I use the words “real actual cured LR” as most LFS that claim they have cured LR don’t actually have fully cured stuff. Look for an LFS that has there LR in the tanks with other animals. Only two places I have seen do it are Dr. Mac, DPA, ECE, and occasionally Greenbank.(check our list of local stores at the top) The tiny bit of die off you may experience moving the rock won’t amount to 1/10th what a table shrimp will contribute waste wise.

Fully cured LR would essentially eliminate a cycle all together. An adequate amount of cured LR can result in a full cycle taking place in less then 3 days as the necessary bacteria is already there.

See if I can remember all of the questions.

The LR will be added tomorrow. Buying it from someone (on here) who is breaking down to a smaller tank.

I have posted this elsewhere but to make it easier here is my setup:
75 gal RR
20 gal aquarium for sump (only running about 9 gal in it right now)
using bioballs right now but may get rid of those sooner than planned. My son discovered they can stack together like blocks.
2 200W heaters in sump
mag 5 pump returning water to tank
right now I have a Koralia 1 in the tank but going to replace it with the Koralia 3 I picked up today.

Forgetting something…

Oh lights just got stock fluorescent lights right now.

Need to hold off a little bit (wait a few paychecks) before we can upgrade lights and buy a skimmer.

Still probably forgetting something. Oh well.

Temp 79 (think I got the heaters set right now. Had to have them higher when they were in the DT, now that they are in the sump (and more importantly the mag 5 is running) setting them to 79 is holding the tank temp better)

Salinity 1.022

pH 8.3

KH 11 (if I did the test right I may counted 1 drop twice) but I also don’t know if it was bright yellow or just plain yellow.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Getting cured LR will make things much more stable much quicker.

I love the Koralia 3 - it is a great pump, but in a 75 I would definitely run at least 2 of them ( I run a 3 and a 4 in my 75) they are amazingly quiet and efficient.

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:8, topic:1055”]
I love the Koralia 3 - it is a great pump, but in a 75 I would definitely run at least 2 of them ( I run a 3 and a 4 in my 75) they are amazingly quiet and efficient.[/quote]

I’ll second that. Either another K3 or K4 or consider a modded maxijet.

You’ll find varying opinions amongst hobbyist for salinity, but I would recommend a higher salinity. 1.025 - 1.026 is more in line with what most of your animals will experience in the wild on average.

Jon

[quote=“Gordonious, post:9, topic:1055”]

[quote=“Cdangel0, post:8, topic:1055”]
I love the Koralia 3 - it is a great pump, but in a 75 I would definitely run at least 2 of them ( I run a 3 and a 4 in my 75) they are amazingly quiet and efficient.[/quote]
I’ll second that. Either another K3 or K4 or consider a modded maxijet.

You’ll find varying opinions amongst hobbyist for salinity, but I would recommend a higher salinity. 1.025 - 1.026 is more in line with what most of your animals will experience in the wild on average.

Jon[/quote]

Agree with you both on K3/K4’s — but she’s running FOWLR for now, so flow isn’t near as important. She can go until she get’s coral to get another powerhead.

And I give that until this afternoon, when she picks up Lee’s rock …

Even with FOWLR she could get dead spots in the aquarium where ditritus will settle and cyano will form. I suppose it will depend on the particular animals though and how they like or handle flow.

Hmmm… DPA really isn’t out of the way when going between Del Mem Bridge and North East.

[quote=“MiniMomma, post:12, topic:1055”]
Hmmm… DPA really isn’t out of the way when going between Del Mem Bridge and North East.[/quote]

Its worth the trip

Stopped by DPA yesterday on the way home. Started drolling over the coral. Picked up another powerhead.

Other than trial and error how do you determine where to place your powerheads?

Got the LR (Thanks Lee and Karen) in yesterday and arrainged it last night. Took a picture but didn’t get a chance to upload it and can’t from work.

[quote=“MiniMomma, post:14, topic:1055”]
Other than trial and error how do you determine where to place your powerheads?[/quote]

Trial and error is really it. I put mine in and futzed with them daily for a week or two before being satisfied with placement. with a Fish Only system you’re just trying to eliminate dead spots where food and waste can accumulate. Once you start keeping coral you’ll adjust to try to give each type of coral the flow it requires for happy healthy growth.