wahoo! so my 90 gallon is finally running with only a minor leak (where the pump is connected to the pvc just falls back into the refug.) would that possibly cause any problems in the long run? the level in the refug seems to be staying the same (right at all the lines where it falls down) anyways so i wanted to cycle my tank using the table shrimp like was suggested… i also have a bottle of the live micro bacterias do i add that when i add the shrimp just like i would if were to add fish? or do i still wait and add it when i add fish? also what would be the ideal temp? my other tank is kept at 82 should i keep my 90 gal at 82? or should i lower it? also right now the salintiy is at 1.023 is that 2 low or is that good? i know alot of stores keep it at like 1.025 but in order to rise it to that should i just add it to the tank? or should i just wait until i start doing water changes seeing as though im not planning on putting anything in until its established? please let me know! Thanks!
TJ
a leaks never good…if i had a slow drip like that, id be at work bitting my finger nails off…is the bottle like a biological booster? As far as temp. you should look at what corals u plan on keeping, but i guess your around the general target range…it may be a tad low…the same with the SG…but then again it all depends on what your going to keep in there.
any ammonia yet?
havent checked it yet for ammonia havent put anything in there yet unless there is from a few snails dying in my refugium from stagment water but i drained all that stagment water out and put ro in so i dont think there should be was going to throw some table shrimp in there like was suggested on here for the cycle and yes i actually got it at the meeting its nitromax and i also have some old biospiral left from when i started up my 55 gallon just a little bit though not enough for the 90 gallon
Any rocks, sand, ect. to establish the biological fitration on/in? SG, temp, depends on what you read, who you talk to, ect. I shoot for 1.025 and would probably just add some salt in since you just got it up and running and there isn’t anything live in there. I try to keep my temp around 80.
That’s a lot of questions
leaking at the pump - should not be a problem since it falls into the sump but it is a cheap fix to replace the tape and reattach the fitting.
Throw in a small shrimp in let it float for a few days then I would pull it when ammonia spikes. The spike should happen in a day or 3. I would add the bacteria at the same time.
Ideal temp - That’s a debated topic. The average is 78 - 80 but Check this out: http://delreefclub.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemid=1
The salinity for fish only is fine at 1.023 usually for corals most aim for 1.025 - 1.026
On the reef in shallow pool areas this can also vary.
If you intend on raising you could do it through water changes but if the tank is empty no live rock or live sand I would add it direct. (Only if the tank is empty and sterile) If you have added rock and “Live” sand I would do it through water changes.
Don’t add fish till you see a spike and reduction in nitrates and ammonia.
Add fish slowly…especially in a new tank. It takes time for the bacteria to increase to eat the waste on the new occupants. This will be less stressful for the fish.
[quote=“xwhatmeworryx, post:1, topic:722”]
only a minor leak (where the pump is connected to the pvc just falls back into the refug.)[/quote]
Unfortunately it is probably a good idea to try to fix it. A small leak can lead to a big leak. If there is any pressure on the line at all a drip could potential turn into a squirt which might not shoot right back into the sump, but onto your stand, floor, or power outlet. While it currently isn’t hurting things it would be a good idea to fix it.
Before I type too much more way too many “?” in your posts. People are lazy. They don’t mind helping with one or two “?”, but if they have to read a whole long thing and take the time to write out all the answers, many people will just skip the thread and ignor it.
The bacteria could be added pretty much whenever and really if you use live rock isn’t required.
Ideal temp is debated for a mixed reef. My recommendation would be 80. Lots of people go with 78, but 77 is too low and 82 is fine. Why dance the line when you can get things right in the middle.(HUGELY an opinion hear. Making any kind of sold declaration of what a perfect temp is would be like fighting words in this hobby.) If you trust my opinion go with 80, other wise spend a couple weeks reading books, articles, and if you want forums.(books and articles probably better sources)
“should i keep my 90 gal at 82?” Many of my tanks stay at 82 the majority of the time.
NEVER EVER add salt directly to the tank. Next time you do a water change add water at a slightly higher salinity 1.026 and it will raise in time. I like 1.026 for a tank containing inverts or LR, but again you will find opinions.
Oh and if you are not doing water changes then just top off with salt water vs fresh water and your salinity will raise as your homes heating dehumidifiers the air in your house sucking fresh water out of your tank and leaving the salt behind.
Best of luck. Post other questions if needed, but try a couple at a time. 
Another problem with that many questions. By the time I wrote my response four other people had already responded, lol.
well do u think the leak would be a problem if i cant actually get to until like saturday? the levels in the regium tend to be staying the same it actually just by me looking seems to be the same probelm i had in the other spot without the o ring so i was planning on looking and seeing if theres an o ring in tehre but i really cant get to until about saturday or so. thanks to DPA for showing me exactly what to do to fix the other leak! now this one should be the same fix wise o ring lube, clean up the threads wrap in tefflone tape and walla! the only thing i dont feel like doing is getting those stupid u tubes going again verdict_in there soo hard 2 get going without sucking water in my mouth and than getting the rubber tube out without breaking the u tube seal… it took many attemps before i finally got it right! also it doesnt neccessarly say marine on this nitromax all it says is the brand tropic science was looking it up and there is a nitromax marine would it make a difference if i used one that is originally intended for freshwater? thanks everyone for responding!
TJ
Saturdays fine. I would not leave a small problem that’s cheap to fix undone.
As for the bacteria I believe they are different but wait for one of the marine biologist to answer.
also is it hard to do that set up like how armco did witht he lr with the tonga branches on the bottom i really liked that but my fear is the branches woobling and the lr falling and breaking the tank lol probably wasnt going to do it for this tank but thinking about it for when i set up another tank down the road (most likely when i get my own house)
Tonga stacks well. If you fear the rock work falling you can secure it with PVC and zip ties or epoxy putty. DamnPepShrimp did pillars using a PVC frame. Link= http://delreefclub.org/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=28&topic=473.0
Try looking into a product called an aqualifter to start the siphon in a u-tube or even to keep it going at all times.
It is extremely rare that LR ever breaks a tank. Many many LFS keep there LR in glass tanks and random employees making min wage lug these rocks in and out of the tanks and I have never heard of a tank breaking at an LFS due to this.
As far as the branches on the bottom there is many different approaches to create similar type things. One you could place PVC under it to lift it up and keep it open. It is possible to paint the PVC,(Krylon fusion black paint is pretty much considered reef safe) but it often comes off in time. Black PVC is available, but custom ordered, or purchased only with hefty shipping charges often. Clear acrylic rods are often a great solution, but can be difficult to come across and plan out. I have heard of a plastics place in Phili that has them, but don’t know the name or contact info.
As far as working with the tonga as Al said Epoxy, PVC, zip ties, or even fishing line could be used. Most of which will quickly get covered in algae in a healthy system or over grown with corals and hardly be noticeable with a well aquascapped tank.
Black PVC, Lowes on 273 - in stock and almost the same price as white.
Acrylic rods, Walmart - look in the bike dept they use thin white rods as flag holders for kids bikes. cheap 5$-10$ for a 4’ rod
also there is gray pvc it would be sch 80 pvc ot even can use electric conduit pvc. the aqua lifters are around 13 dollars and are worth thier weight in gold. they will restart syphon every time you loose power all by thier self. just make sure you use the black air line tubing for this. it will keep algea from plugging them up. black air line tubing is called stealth tubing and most lfs carry it. got mine at that pet place for like 4 bucks.
And for what it’s worth Armco rock work is built on top of a PVC shelf structure, it’s not stacked. Rich just did a REAL good job of hiding the PVC.
Yeah,~~~
It’s a real nice set up growing to max! I still can’t believe we have had “TWO” whole club meetings there recently, and with all the visible drool marks left dripping down the front glass of the tank from our digitally crazed members, there are still no pictures posted on the forum???
Yet??
That’s my fault. I will get some images up at some point. Here are some really old images.
Things have grown in a lot more since this and now there is only one yellow tang.