Ok, among other things, ive got several people asking me to make them an ATO unit. Instead of doing them one at a time ive decided to stock up on some parts. If all goes well, im going to bring one to the january meeting that will be raffled off. I will be doing a different DIY demo, but hopefully i can take a couple of minutes to explain it and pass it around. Unlike other DIY ATO that you see on the web, this will NOT be running 110VAC through the switch. It will utilize a relay and a 12VDC transformer. I will be making these as plug and play as possible so that everyone can use it, which means i will use hangon float switches that wont require drilling. Also, these will have a plug on them so that all you have to do is plug it into the wall and plug your water pump into the ATO, just like the $100 models. For those that dont use an ATO, what this means is all you need is a container(tote, tank, bucket, whatever) filled with your topoff water and a small pump, thats it. Instead of having to manually topoff your tank everyday, you simply have to fill the container as needed. The bigger the container the less you have to fill. Not only does it save a TON of work, but its crucial to a stable tank. Without an ATO, or very meticulous manual topoffs, your tank’s salinity will constantly swing.
I plan to stock up on most things, to get better prices but may have to order some parts. $35 should cover my cost. If anyone thinks they are interested, bring $35 to the meeting, and if you like what you see i can make you one.
Whats the safety backup part of it? Is it because your pumping out of a small top off tank that is only going to over flow X gallons?
Sounds good and cheap. How does it fair with your top off water being kalk? Can you easily remove the pump and throw it in another tank/tote with salt for doing easy water changes?
[quote=“IanH, post:3, topic:634”]
How does it fair with your top off water being kalk? Can you easily remove the pump and throw it in another tank/tote with salt for doing easy water changes?[/quote]
Ya know, if all the questions are answered now, the DIY part of the meeting’s gonna be kind of dull …
Actually, the DIY will be on something else. I know a lot of people are VERY reluctant to work with electric so i figured i would just pimp myself out for those interested.
Ian- Here is the safety part. Your first switch will be a “normally open” float switch. If your water level is higher than the switch nothing happens. As you evaporate water, the switch will close, complete a circuit and provide power to your pump or solenoid. Your pump will add water which opens your switch turning the pump back off. However, if something were to obstruct your switch and keep it in a closed position(which can happen), you will continue to add water until your reservoir is empty. I will build a ATO with a second float switch which will be “normally closed” If your first switch gets stuck and your water level raises, it will only go as high as your second switch. The second swich will open the circuit, turning off your pump. Its very easy to tell if your first swtich is obstructed simply by observing your water level. It should always be at switch 1, if you come home and its at switch 2, then clear the obstruction and quickly call me to thank me for saving your a$$ with the safety switch!!
You can easily remove the pump. Your water pump will simply plug into the ATO in a normal house electrical outlet. As far as kalk, i would use a solenoid and gravity. If you have room to put your RO reservoir above your sump, you simply plug a solenoid into the ATO and as you evaporate a solenoid is opened instead of pump coming on and you simply gravity feed into your sump. Much more simple and reliable IMO.
ICY - Since there was a lot less interest in the ATO than i thought, the one i build for next week will be yours. There isnt much sense in raffling off an item that most people dont want or cant use. Let me know if there are any features you specifically want(i.e., shorter/longer cord, GFI/no GFI, etc). Also, i will custom make the float rack/holder for you. If you give me some dimensions it will make my life a lot easier. The rack will hang on your sump, the bottom float will be your water level, the top is the backup cutoff. I need the two red dimensions. Thanks.
Hi there, new member here and new to reefing. I’m interested in your ATO and hope to attend the next meeting so I can see one and meet some other members. I’ll probably be interested in getting one as well.
If its ok with Icy, i plan to use his as a quick demo at the meeting so that you, and everyone else, can see it in action. If your interested after seeing it, all i need is $35 and the measurements mentioned in the above post. The turnaround should be much quicker than i first thought since i have found a domestic seller for the switches.
Ok, i got your floats in the mail today. The entire ATO is together and working flawlessly. I even impressed myself >LOL< As soon as you can get me the dimensions i can fabricate a holder and be 100% done.
Of course, that the easy part. The hard part is what do you plan to use to raise PH? I would just use kalkwasser for your topoff and use an ATO. Thats what im doing now and i dont know why i waited so long.
If you can think it up, i can build it. Its amazing what you can do with a couple of relays. For example, i can build you an contoller for your make up water that doesnt rely on a mechanical float. You could pump straight RODI in a container, when it reaches the level you want it can shut off your water and turn on a heater and powerhead automatically and turn it off automatically when it drains. Heck, if we wanted to, we could even build a salt dispenser >LOL< Relays are also really good to use when you want something to turn on one outlet when the other goes off or vice versa, very useful failsafes.
Ok, there seemed to be a reasonable amount of interest in the ATO tonight so i thought i would bump the thread. I bought enough floats, powercords, and relays tonight to build 5. As it stands, its going to cost me roughly $38 to build. Ill update the price when i get an exact price for the GFI/standard receptacle and plate. Hopefully it will be less than $38. In the meantime, im going to be on the lookout for a good bulkdeal on enclosure and GFIs. If your not mounting this near water(i dont know the exact NEC distance) you can skip the GFCI and save $8. Im going to front the cost for these and will deliver them at the Febuary meeting. If interested, please post, first come first serve. If you live up north i would like payment within a couple of weeks to help cover the purchase of the GFIs and enclosures. If you live down south you can wait until the meeting. If Bellamy is still interested, the first is his so four left! Please look at the attached diagram and let me know what your dimensions are for the green and read lengths. The red line will be the distance from the top of your sump to your desired water level.
[quote=“logans_daddy, post:17, topic:634”]
Ok, there seemed to be a reasonable amount of interest in the ATO tonight so i thought i would bump the thread. I bought enough floats, powercords, and relays tonight to build 5. As it stands, its going to cost me roughly $38 to build. Ill update the price when i get an exact price for the GFI/standard receptacle and plate. Hopefully it will be less than $38. In the meantime, im going to be on the lookout for a good bulkdeal on enclosure and GFIs. If your not mounting this near water(i dont know the exact NEC distance) you can skip the GFCI and save $8. Im going to front the cost for these and will deliver them at the Febuary meeting. If interested, please post, first come first serve. If you live up north i would like payment within a couple of weeks to help cover the purchase of the GFIs and enclosures. If you live down south you can wait until the meeting. If Bellamy is still interested, the first is his so four left! Please look at the attached diagram and let me know what your dimensions are for the green and read lengths. The red line will be the distance from the top of your sump to your desired water level.
