Ok guys,
Remember 75 rr w 30 gal sump. Going today for skimmer, but also wonder what u guys dofor filtration.
Right now I got nada. Drain line goes 1in from bottom of sump, baffles and then back via quiet one 3000.
Change and add sock? Add canister? Just curious of pros and cons. I do have room /layout for fuge too.Btw, everything has settled down real nice, zoos growing, hairy shroom has split in 3 and moved different directions cross the rock!
Glad to hear things are settling down for you.
I wouldn’t add a “canister” per say. You can look into running GFO(Granular Ferric Oxide) or aluminum oxide to help keep phosphates low.(which will help with reducing algae and boosting coral growth) Also consider running activated carbon to help clarify the water, remove organics, and remove toxins the corals release which slows the growth of other corals. Both of the above are either run in a bag carefully placed in the sump(so it doesn’t end up sucked into a pump) or in a media reactor(I prefer a Phosban 550 media reactor myself, but bulkreefsupply has some popular models as well).
I would recommend keeping some spare activated carbon around just in case of an emergency. If the tank has been over fed, or an animal has passed away after a water change adding activated carbon is the second thing to be done.
A small foam block like those added to hang on back fresh water filters should be added to the tank as well. This isn’t really added for filtration, but to help seed a hospital or QT tank should you need/want one in the future. It takes a couple weeks at least for this foam to get biologically seeded, but only takes a second to realize you have a sick fish and want to help it in the best way possible.
I personally run several other types of filtration as well, but these are a bit more complicated and for advanced hobbyist(part of running a “low nutrient” system)
Rough order of importance in my mind:
-A balanced biological system(live rock and tanks initial “cycling”)
-Water changes (15-20% weekly would be a good start, but these numbers can very drastically and still have positive results)
-A good protein skimmer
-Activated carbon
-Phosphate remover
A quick note on filtration socks. I don’t like to use them unless I have the ability to keep the return pump off after feeding so the fish have a chance to feed on the food before it gets stuck in a sock and rots away. I won’t count on anyone’s memory to turn the return pump back on so I use a controller to do it. Even with the feed button on a controller the filter sock should be swapped out twice a week for a clean one. These very often aren’t maintained properly and in my opinion end up having more of a negative effect on the system then a positive one.
Just my two cents. Good luck!
I agree with Gordonius, but would also add that along with LR (live rock)I’m a big fan of DSB’s(Deep Sand Beds). But it’s important that you use the right size and type of substrate and infauna.
Here is some info:
Whatever you do, it will all take time to cycle, mature and stabilize, so patience is key.
Many people like deep sand beds, but I personally think they’re a ticking time bomb and not for beginners or dabblers. If you’re a seasoned, experienced, dedicated hobbyist then you may choose the deep sand bed option, but I personally wouldn’t recommend it especially to someone who is asking the question in the subject line of this thread.
I believe even those on this forum who have and love their deep sand beds will agree there are risks involved in keeping them. With a young cycling aquarium the chemistry swings a great deal and a new hobbyist often has a hard time resisting impulse buys on animals they see they believe they’ll never find again(or get such a great deal on again). Beginning hobbyist also often can’t resist trying to improve their aquarium and cleaning things up too quickly could starve the sand bed.
There are countless thriving successful beautiful aquariums without deep sand beds. The hobby is complicated enough without learning deep sand beds the same time as everything else.
Since it was brought up, I was wondering about opinions regarding the best way to run Activated Carbon . . . Passively, or via reactor. I’ve heard this kicked around a bit, and nothing definitive has been derived. I understand that more flow and more surface area will clarify more water, but is too much flow through a reactor overkill? (obviously tank size has to be taken into account . . )
You can squish a bug with your finger, or shoot it with a .50cal . . . . either way, it’s still dead.
What are your thoughts . . . Passive A.C. filtration by setting a mesh bag in the sump, or pumping water through an A.C. reactor? :
:
[quote=“dajohnson02, post:5, topic:4970”]
Since it was brought up, I was wondering about opinions regarding the best way to run Activated Carbon . . . Passively, or via reactor. I’ve heard this kicked around a bit, and nothing definitive has been derived. I understand that more flow and more surface area will clarify more water, but is too much flow through a reactor overkill? (obviously tank size has to be taken into account . . )
You can squish a bug with your finger, or shoot it with a .50cal . . . . either way, it’s still dead.
What are your thoughts . . . Passive A.C. filtration by setting a mesh bag in the sump, or pumping water through an A.C. reactor? ::[/quote]
Definitely a reactor with slower flow for more contact time. Use a good grade of GAC, i.e. ROX 0.8 @ BRS.
Thanks again guys, I was gonna ask about reactor as well…we will give that some time. It may not seem like it, but I do understand slow and easy,I am on livestock. Hard part for me was patience with everything else. Asm g2 is in and running, give it a few weeks to get dialed in and go from there.
Thanks for putting up with me.
I just have a big fuge, skimmer, carbon reactor and phosphate reactor.Hey boggy, I don’t want you to think any of my posts about “newbys” were directly pointed towards you or anything. I often try to keep my responses on the forum so that they will work in many situations and none of it will be bad advice in certain situations. Even when someone like the all mighty president of the reef club posts I may say something like, “It may be wise not to have an auto top off hooked directly to the house plumbing, but to use a reservoir” not because Craig is known to cause leaks, but just because someone less knowledgeable and experienced as Craig may read the post.
I’ve heard a wealth of opinions on GAC and media reactors. 50% of the time in my own aquariums I use reactors. 50% of my new clients I use reactors with. I’ve spoken to many smarter and more experienced then I on the issue and heard a variety of answers. I run GFO in reactors about 90% of the time.
One note on reactors versus bags with GAC. If a bag is left to float around in the sump or if you pour a water change or freshwater into your sump and move the bag to where it gets sucked into a return pump and round up… this could lead to lateral line on your fish and royally pi$$ your corals. Make sure the bags are very secure and tied tight or just a good reactor.