I mentioned this a while ago in a thread…i was talking about it today at DPA…this link has great info…
the biggest advantage i see to aquasurf modding your vortech is the set-up of modes you can run not available to the typical vortech user…
you can run 100% wave for a couple hours, switch to reef crest, and go to straight blast…all without bothering the controller…check it out and let me know what you think…
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1233800
EcoTech Marine has amazing customer support. These guys live and work in Pennsylvania USA. After spending how much on two MP40s and a battery back up I won’t be moding mine to break the Warranty.
With the, AquaBus Wireless Expansion Module (WXM) I can sit back on my couch and create a storm. Or when I kick into feed mode to feed my corals I can have a very light solid on flow so I can see which way the current is moving and just lightly broadcast food upstream from my LPS. Or if I want to show off to friends the real fun of a Vortex I can kick off my return pump and let the water level come down a little bit… anyone seen the videos from MACNA? (or better yet see real waves in person?) No matter what I do it’s a fairly simple program to have the controller kick things back into normal if I haven’t been messing with things for a while. If I cut my return pump off and make some serious waves after a couple drinks my sump won’t stay stagnant for long and my tank won’t crash.
I know you got yours cheap used and if you don’t already have a Neptune controller yet it’s a lot more to put get to that point. After buying everything new I won’t be modding them.(especially since I plan to get the WXM soon)
The warranty on mgy 40s and 20s is definitely up and I’ve had mine for a while now…Over the past two years I have a additional driver for my mp40 W and another wet side that Im thinking about breaking some of the “Protection Bars” off because I read it alters the flow a little better…I really like the Module, seems to do everything the aquasurf would do…I want to get the battery back up but after the re-call it kind of scared me.
Ive been thinking about getting the mp60 but again a ONE YEAR warranty on a 700 dollar purchase isnt to assuring to me…plus i hate buying the first release of anything, kind of how i got screwed on my first PS3 and X-BOX 360…
All I really want out of the vortech that it doesnt do now is the ability to run different modes through out the day…I’ll be getting a controller sooner than later…So the neptune is looking more appealing after that link…
I’ll have to come over and check out how it works Jon…youve got me very interested…
Wait until it is all the way hooked up. I’ve been busy with other things recently.
As far as first generation you won’t get screwed at all. The one they had a MACNA was fully function and they have improved things since then. EcoTech Marine has changed out many parts in the past with their clients for free because they didn’t work perfectly. I know they will stand behind their product. That is why I have already ordered two of the MP60s for one of my clients.
Does your new tank have water in it yet Mike? Do you know if it is drillable or what company made it?
i was told the tank was custom built…right now I’m taking it a little slow, typically I would of had it filled with water 48 hours after purchase…the tank measures 48"*36"*24"…the tank has two holes drilled about 5 inches from the sides and 8 inches from the back…looks like i couldve been an old lobster tank or something…not sure
I want to incorporate 2, maybe 3 sumps…thinking a planted fuge, something to let the mangroves grow like crazy, and a bin to hold live rock ive been buying…the tank is def. drill-able…it has two holes in the bottom but they are in funky spots and im not sure if i want to work with them or not…may end up capping those and making new ones…
I was thinking about selling the mp20 I have for really cheap, and bucking up and working a saturday and I’d have close to the money…Or I could get the controller!! Either way I’m getting myself something nice for the tank, as my christmas present ha
“the tank is def. drill-able…it has two holes in the bottom”
If you meant for these to be connected they shouldn’t be. One does not imply the other. The bottom of Aqueon 120g tanks(just short of the size of your tank) are tempered bottoms with megaflow(2-4 holes in them). There are special ways these tanks are created, but the bottom line is a hobbyist can not drill the bottom after they have purchased or they will end up with shattered glass. Just be careful.
Got ya…thanks, im trying to avoid drilling it again, and I have a couple ideas…i may run 90’s off the bulks heads and run PVC to the back corner of the tank…and build a durso style overflow in the corner…
or just turn both holes into durso’s without an in tank overflow…not to sure yet
If the tank is 100% for sure drillable you could use the current holes for a closed loop and add a coast to coast “Calfo style” overflow with 3 holes to go the silent method. I actually ordered a ton of glass drilling bits before I decided to go with even bigger holes on the project I was working on. Just let me know.
Because of the odd position of the holes can you describe how you recommend I plumb it? I would use the bottom as my returns? And then add the back siphon thingy on them (forget the tech. term)? I’m going to try to build the stand tomorrow. The new tank is a half inch too big for my old stand
No, no, no. If you use the bottom as returns and the back for the overflow holes you are going to end up with a drained tank and a wet floors. You need to read up on what a closed loop is perhaps. My recommendations were to do both a closed loop and add more holes for overflow. If your plans count on a check valve to work there is a good chance they’ll fail.(though I’ve seen it done for over a year with out failure I wouldn’t recommend it.)
First question for you to figure out is if you are game for drilling more holes or if you are going to stick with what you have.
Ok I brushed up on my closed loop lingo, and I’m open to the possibility, but not sure if thats what i would like to do…
also i am willing to drill more holes in the tank…the guy who i get my rock from has used the check valve method for a while so i didnt know if it would be a possibility for this tank…Not really the route i wanted to go, but i was just considering all options…
I’d never count on a check valve personally, but have seen some tank set ups that required one. Your tank could be set up with out one.
Why wouldn’t you want to do a closed loop? I like the combination of using a variable speed pump on a closed loop with an oceans motion as well as a couple of vortex. The closed loop in this case would hit the smaller areas and let you point flow in specific locations which may be lower flow due to large coral growth or rock structure and just basically prevent any dead space. The Vortex would provide the majority of the flow. This is of course the pricey way to go about it. Just set up your closed loop with whatever you have and use true unions so you can modify things in the future and clean things when needed.
If I did the closed loop, I’d like to use an SCWD with it…I’m not against it, the more I think about it and read…the more I can see setting it up this way…doesn’t look like I’ll be getting the stand done today so I’m going to figure out how I want to plumb this thing
I recently read some feedback on the SCWD that made them sound horrible. OceanMotions seems to be the way to go, but the returns to my original comment about it being the pricey way to go. Look into them as an option as well.