I’m wondering if anyone use or know how to connect the high pressure switch to turn on/off the RODI unit booster pump?
I was told to put the switch between the RO module and auto shutoff valve. I did that but, it’s not turning off the booster pump. So, apparently it install incorrectly.
So, does anyone know how to install this thing? Thanks
I dont really know A. but a quick dogpile search found this instruction manual. one option is with a float level switch or shut off float valve.
they mostlyare installed with a pressurized tank reservoir. the tank has a high pressure switch that turns off the pump and feed valve.
you might need a different pressure switch .
I’m guessing , but sounds like it should go in the final water out hose but before whatever valve turns your water on/off… educated guess as to where the pressure differential would be most drastic to control the switch. :
:
[quote=“kaptken, post:2, topic:5314”]
I dont really know A. but a quick dogpile search found this instruction manual. one option is with a float level switch or shut off float valve.
they mostlyare installed with a pressurized tank reservoir. the tank has a high pressure switch that turns off the pump and feed valve.
you might need a different pressure switch . [/quote]
Thanks Ken. I do have a float valve in my water reservoir and everything is fine on that end. In the Spectrapure schematic it ask for solenoid. I was not aware of that. I guess little bit more research.
[quote=“saltcreep, post:3, topic:5314”]
I’m guessing , but sounds like it should go in the final water out hose but before whatever valve turns your water on/off… educated guess as to where the pressure differential would be most drastic to control the switch. ::[/quote]
I’m gonna give it a try John and see if that will work.
If it’s the switch I am thinking of, it goes on the output of the booster pump and then to the input of your RO unit
[quote=“houndsbayman, post:5, topic:5314”]
If it’s the switch I am thinking of, it goes on the output of the booster pump and then to the input of your RO unit[/quote]
That’s where it is now John and it’s not working. I just went to the filter guys website (where the unit came from) according to them, the booster pump is install after the first stage which is the pre filter. And now that I look at their schematic again. The pressure switch goes between the auto shutoff valve and the DI housing. Maybe I’ll give that a try or the way John had mentioned, after the DI unit where the good water comes out at.
Do you need a booster pump? The last time I did the math you saved a couple of pennies a year in water, but spent a couple of dollars a month in electric. In this area water is not sparse and electricity is primarily produced in methods that significantly harm the planet it. So either way your not saving money or the planet by using a booster pump. I did the math a couple of years ago though, so it may be different now.
Does the thread say " do i need a booster pump… opinions please"
… or… “do i need hermit crabs from a group buy”
unless we can cash in all these :TWOCENTS for some real cash, then i’d say just keep them for yourself…
thats just my :TWOCENTS
[quote=“saltcreep, post:8, topic:5314”]
Does the thread say " do i need a booster pump… opinions please"
… or… “do i need hermit crabs from a group buy”
unless we can cash in all these :TWOCENTS for some real cash, then i’d say just keep them for yourself…
thats just my :TWOCENTS[/quote]
:
: correct John. I do not need a booster pump, I have one.
Jon, I might not be the greenest guy on this planet earth. However, I’m doing what’s makes me happy. By running the RODI unit to produce the cleanest water for my reef tank to make the tank happy and me happy. By the way I do have :TWOCENTS to pay for the wattage that this small little pump produces.
A, do you have a solenoid on your RO unit. I use one on my unit to stop the flow in the unit. The auto top off will not stop the RO unit from discharging water thru the drain tube. The selenoid create the pressure to stop the unit and I think it then stops the pump.
A have you checked out permeate pumps i think they would make the system automatic. some ro systems don’t have a shutoff valve built in, that would take the place of a solenoid or you can get a shutoff for it i have one somewhere around here. so if your float shuts the product water off the waste still flows unless you have a shutoff valve or permeate pump then it will shut down completely. i think thats what houndsbay is asking but in a different way with a solenoid. And gordonious the booster pumps help in many ways and are needed in some applications with low water pressure. also A personally I would avoid too many on off cycles, with my ro when it first comes on i get tds creep. I’ll get a high tds when it first turns on but after it runs a bit it’ll drop a lot, but bsing di i guess it won’t matter just go through di faster.
Tim, I do have a shutoff valve ( the white circular thing right?) and I also have a pressure switch (the thing that connect to the booster pump and suppose to shut it off when the pressure gets to 40psi).
But I do have to check and see if the waste water line still producing dirty water even when the float valve is shut off.
Also, Tim you said to avoid too many on off cycles. What if I’m using it to fill my ATO container and it just stay fill and of course slow drip to refill the container. You think it would go through DI as fast?
So from what you guys are telling me. I do need to get either the solenoid or a permeate pump. Let me try the way the maker of the unit suggests and if all else fail I will get one of the two that you guys mentioned. Thanks guys
A, here is what I use. It’s called a RO shut off valve
here is a link, check it out
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=14690
[quote=“houndsbayman, post:13, topic:5314”]
A, here is what I use. It’s called a RO shut off valve
here is a link, check it out
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=14690[/quote]
Yes John, I do have that hook up as well.
if the white circular thing has one line in and one out in the waste line thats the restrictor. some ro’s have an internal shutoff some have an external and some don’t have on if its external it’ll have four lines to it. i also have a pressure guage to check your house pressure. best thing to do is use the water from your storage container at least a few gallons at a time, this will avoid short cycling the membrane.
kens link shows a good diagram how its supposed to go but check these reviews out especially the 2nd one