Im just curious about a few things and would like to hear from everyone,
How often do you test your waters?
What do you test for?
Do you keep a log book?
I test my ALK, MG, CALCIUM, SALINITY, NITRATE, and PHOSPHATE evry water change, which is now at once a month, I do a 20% water change. My ph and temp is monitored via probes all the time. I will check my Alk once a week also. And I keep a log of all the reading and changes to my tank. Hope this helps.
I usually do Bi-weekly test, but right now I do weekly because my water has been unstable. I test for ALK, MG, CALCIUM, SALINITY, NITRATE, and PHOSPHATE. My ph and temp is monitored via probes as well, on APEX Jr. As for log, I do have a program that I use to log everything in.
once a month–alk, trates/trites, ca., phosphates. frequently alk, ca, temp, salinity, during the interim period. mag infrequently. i use a free online record keeper.
I test for alk often, at least 1x week, Ca about 2x month. Mg & nitrate 1x month… Ph, never, but i do want a probe for my meter so i can keep an eye on it…
this is after a year and a half plus of dosing… when i first started i would check any param i was dosing before/after to see my results, and double check myself.
I don’t keep a log, but it would be a good idea
I monitor PH and Temp with Apex, test Alk, PO4 twice a week and CA, MG and NO3 every other week unless Alk jumps then I test all.
I test once a month, my weekly water changes at proper temp and salinity usually keeps things in check. I haven’t added anything recently, so my bioload has been the same for quite awhile. I dose with carbonates weekly between WC’s to keep the alk and pH up. Usually my clove polyps and shrooms are indicators when I need to change something in the water, when they look down I’ll test and adjust accordingly.
But unless something is wrong, I test once a month:
Mg, Alk, pH, Cal, Nitrate, Ammonia. I don’t test NitrITE much at all, it never seems to be a problem for me. I test for Salinity weekly before and after water changes, I like to ensure that they are exact while doing WC’s as to avoid shocking the animals.
I don’t test for phosphates . . . yet . . . and I have my reasoning. But I’ll keep that to myself. lol
[quote=“dajohnson02, post:7, topic:4840”]
I don’t test for phosphates . . . yet . . . and I have my reasoning. But I’ll keep that to myself. lol[/quote]
Come on go against the gran, tell us why :
:
. . . Because from what I understand there are different types of phosphates, and test kits only test for 1 type . . .
Again, from what I’ve learned, you could read low on one kit and high on another, because different test kits are looking for different precursors.
It seems that many people complain about their phosphate test kits because of the swing in readings from one sample to the next, let alone comparing 2 test kits side by side.
When I have a problem indicative of phosphate buildup, I will spring on a test kit just to see, but as of now it seems (knock on wood) that everything is alright. This is why I don’t test for phosphate.
Phosphorus occurs in waters soley as phosphates, classified as orthophosphates, condensed phosphates (ortho, meta, and other poly phosphates), and organo phosphates.
What the at home test kits are looking at is the orthophosphates (reactive phosphates).
to get a look at the other phosphates the sample must first be digested to break down into orthophosphates for testing.
Im conducting some experements for phosphate reduction over the next couple of days, ill let you know how it comes out. Suspended solids as well as other interferenceses can cause false readings with the at home test kits so i really dont know how accurate they can be, but this is one of the things ill be looking at.
[quote=“aonemarine, post:10, topic:4840”]
Im conducting some experements for phosphate reduction over the next couple of days, ill let you know how it comes out. Suspended solids as well as other interferenceses can cause false readings with the at home test kits so i really dont know how accurate they can be, but this is one of the things ill be looking at.[/quote]
I’m very interest in your conclusion, please keep us informed. Also, any thoughts on GFO use or for most of us the Seachem’s Phosguard?
I'm very interest in your conclusion, please keep us informed.+1
Im currently running pura phoslock gfo in my 10 gallon system, approy 20 grams of it and will be testing the results. I am also going to experement with ferric chloide for removal. Ill keep you posted…
I just ran a preliminary test on phosphate using an API test kit then a Hach DR 890. Interesting is all im willing to say at this time…
Samples were taken from my freshly set up uncycled 40 long, and my 10 gallon before and after a water change. The water used to change out 10% of the 10 gallon was from the 40 long.
Turbidity API HACH
Tank pH Alk NTU Po[sub]4[/sub] Po[sub]4[/sub]
40L 7.93 155 1.18 1.0 .06
10 gal
pre w/c 8.03 116 .275 .5 .47
10 gal
post w/c 8.01 123 .874 1.0 .36
After collecting my samples I added 20 grams of GFO to the filters in the HOB wisper filter of the 10 gallon, I will be testing over the next few days and recording the results as well as refining the testing.
So there a vast different from your 40L and your 10 gal. I’m guessing the 10 gal is a stand alone tank? The API is not that far off from the HACH, only by .04 on your 40L?
Off by .94 on the 40L, and off by .64 on the 10 gallon after water change. Pretty big difference, im assuming its due to the turbidity. Looks like it anyway. More to come…