Oh yes it is. Is it just in that one spot, or is it everywhere?
it is on about 4 or 5 rocks from what I can see. the ones towards the top. How do I get rid of it ? I took them out and scrub them in some ro water but came right back in a day or so.
First question, then I need to plug in my phone, it’s going to be a long post. How much coral do you have, and if it comes down to it, are you willing to pull them out and put them in another tank temporarily, or if worse comes to worse, possibly lose some?
The corals I have are :
xenia
frogspawn
hammer
cabbage leather
monti
zoas
candy cane
trumpet
toadstool
duncans
kenya tree
mushrooms
acan
goniapora
pervona
unknown acro
I also have a clam, coral banded shrimp, coral beauty, chromis, and yellow tail damsel.
If I have to pull them out I will.
Fwd:Brightwell Aquatics MicroBacter7 500 ml
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Before you kill everything try this! Dino is not an algea but a bacteria. This stufff is also a bacteria but the good kind. There is a lot of info out there on how to get rid of dino. This wont hurt anything in your tank! This stuff is what is said to work. I dont know if any other brand will work the same or not. Its realativly inexpensive. Some people also do lights out for 3days. Cover the whole tank with cardboard so all light is out and that is also said to work. Try the safe options first.
How To Treat Dinoflagellates-Saltwater Aquarium: How To Treat Dinoflagellates-Saltwater Aquarium - YouTube
Warning - Tips for getting the most when dosing H…: Warning - Tips for getting the most when dosing Hydrogen Peroxide! - YouTube
Great videos Jason! I will leave the peroxide to my last resort. I am going to black it out for 3 days and get the mb7. see how it goes.
This is what I did - and when I had them, I had them BAD.
First and foremost - regardless of what you think is right, or what anyone tells you - absolutely NO waterchanges with new water. Dino’s are extremely adaptable to varying conditions in the system - but like all bacteria and algae, they need nutrients to grow. Lots of people think waterchanges are the best thing you can do for dinos, but if you think about it, waterchanges are doing nothing but adding pure, raw, fresh nutrients to the tank.
Now, that said the first thing you want to do and have ready on hand is at least 2 to 4 sump socks. You want to put one sock inside the other. Depending on what you have going on with a sump or not using one, doesn’t really matter - you want to suck out the dinos every single day into those socks. When I did it, I just used an empty salt bucket, put the socks in there and sucked them out into the bucket so I could see what I was doing. It may be just as easy to put the socks in the sump, suck the dinos out into them and the water returns back into the sump. That’s the main goal - re-use the water that you sucked out with the dinos. All the dinos you suck out will get trapped in the socks and just put the water back in the system. You’re essentially doing a water change without adding fresh nutrients. IME - I think this was the key thing that helped me out.
If you’re running a skimmer, run it wetter than normal, but not enough that it’s pulling more water. You don’t want to add new saltwater to the system. If you’re running carbon and GFO, that helps. Just make sure you change it all out once a week at a minimum. Carbon’s life is actually very short lived in a system anyway - something like 2 weeks before it looses it’s effectiveness. Bottom line is change it often.
Feed your fish the smallest portions of food (basically starve them) until the dinos are gone - to the point where you’re feeling bad about it. Just make sure whatever you do feed them doesn’t go floating all over the place adding to the nutrient issue.
Lights out - I did it for 3 days - covered everything in black plastic trash bags and cardboard. It did help knock them back, but since I had them so bad, they came right back.
I tried raising my pH to 8.6 but I just couldn’t keep it there. I think you need to have it elevated and stay elevated consistently during the battle. I just couldn’t keep it there, so that was a bust for me.
Peroxide - I did it and I think it was the last nail in the coffin for me. The dinos were pretty beat down when I started using it. I think the dosage I used was 1ml / 10 gallons (you’re going to need to read up on it before messing with it). I think it was maybe a week after, I had it under control. Since the majority of my issue was all through the sand bed instead of the rocks, it was beat down. Then I sucked the top 1/2" of my entire sand bed at the end and it was gone - never returned.
Thanks Todd! I will get to working on it.
Good luck - keep us posted.
will do! the other thought process i had was to find some where for my livestock and tear down the tank and start it over! but will try the other stuff first.
Karen if it was just that easy! Its been know to be alot worse in new tanks! Due to the lack of benificial bacteria being bresent in the tank. :TWOCENTS
Well that sucks. When do I add the mb7 before or after blackout?
Yesterday!
I have to order online. LFS didnt have it.
question. yous guys who used H2O2 for the final solution, did you order that high concentration peroxide in the videoat 35%, or did you use regular drug store medicianal peroxide which is only 3%? it would make a big difference on how much you dose, per the video.
Just wondering. one neglected frag tank system was full of it. so thick and dark reddish brown, i could pull it off the tank like a pond liner sheet of rubber. doing a little cleaning tonight. scrape it off the glass, and stir up the tank, and then net out all the floaters. until its clear. it blows right off the rock and sand in sheets. fresh water does kill it. i gave the chaeto a few rinces in the bucket before putting it back in. should clean up for a while.
Use the regular 3%. You can use the concentrated stuff, but you need to dilute it and adjust your dosing accordingly.