Off Topic - OBD II Automotive code reader software

DRC Archive General Saltwater Discussion
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First off I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse V6 3.0L and 2004 GMC Envoy
Most of the service is happening on the Mitsubishi as it is older; 65k miles. Recently the Check engine light came on again. The first time I replaced the Map sensor per the code the second time it was the egr valve.
The light stayed off for 3 days then came on again. I am going to get the code read this week. I had a miss fire last week and the check engine light may be that. (Codes read free at Autozone)
I plan on replacing the distributor, wires and plugs when the next nice day comes by. I am thinking of purchasing a code reader to save the drive to get the code read but the more I think about it I would rather hook it to my laptop and get a full readout. Hence my question. There are 1000’s of them on the market. I hesitate to pick up just any as I don’t want to get more/less then I need and I also don’t want some punk loading a virus to the cars computer and/or frying it. Any recommendations? I am not sure I know what I want yet but wanted to get some input. Some things I might would be interested in: Real time analysis of engine running, Cylinder Misfire Codes, Throttle Position Sensor, Manifold pressure, engine temp, EGR, O2…What else can be read? Can I have a vehicle spec chart or graph to check my output against? (Short of my own personal Dynomat)
I found this site http://www.autotap.com/product_family.asp?FamilyId=260. They are not the cheapest or the highest but the option for reading the info live seems like a nice feature.

Any info, options or sites to check out would be great

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you can get readers with car specfic data but thats gona cost u a lot more than you want to spend. depending on how much u want to get in to it or how much u will understand form the readouts i would just pick up a 60 $ code reader. real time data is gona be a lot more money havent checked out your link yet but i will post back.

Ford master tech. if i can be help to any one in the club will to side work for cheep or frags!!!

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seems like a good deal just rember a code is not a diag. its a tool can point you in the right direction. if u get a code for a part and just hang that part your gona waste all kinds of money

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I realize the truth to what you are saying as I replaced the EGR valve and I doubt it was needed. I took the car to a Mitsubishi dealer after getting the codes from AutoZone and they confirmed the same codes. P1400 and P0403. According to AutoZone the MAP sensor (P1400) could make the EGR look bad. Also since my miles per gallon were only off by 4 mpg he doubted it was it. He suggested I replace that MAp sensor first and retest. I did and the P1400 code went away but the other stayed. I ordered the part Mitsubishi said was for the other code and the light is back on. After doing some research I believe I was given incorrect info by both places. The P0403 code while it could be the EGR valve it is more common to be the EGR vacuum controller solenoid sensor. So even though the manufacturer said it was bad it still may not be it.

P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction

What does that mean?

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is controlled by a vacuum solenoid. The solenoid is supplied ignition voltage. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the vacuum solenoid by grounding the control circuit(ground) or driver. The primary function of the driver is to supply ground for the object that is being controlled. Each driver has a fault circuit that the PCM monitors. When the PCM turns a component on, the control circuit voltage is low, or close to zero. When the component is turned off, the voltage on the control circuit is high, or near battery voltage. The PCM watches for these conditions, and if it doesn’t see the proper voltage at the proper time, this code is set.
Potential Symptoms

Usually a fault in the control circuit, will leave no noticeable symptoms other than the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination. However, if the EGR control solenoid
is stuck open due to debris, etc. the code may be accompanied by misfire under acceleration, rough idle, or engine dying altogether.
Causes

The causes for a P0403 EGR code could be any of the following:

* Bad EGR solenoid
* Excessive resistance in control circuit (PCM controlled ground) due to an open, chafing or damage to the harness
* Poor connection at the EGR solenoid harness (worn or loose pins)
* Water intrusion at the EGR solenoid harness
* Blockage in EGR control solenoid holding solenoid open or closed causing excessive resistance
* Loss of supply voltage to EGR solenoid
* Bad PCM

Possible Solutions

With the ignition on and engine off, use a scan tool to activate the EGR solenoid. Listen or feel for a clicking, indicating that the solenoid is operating.

If the solenoid does operate, you’ll have to check current draw on the ground circuit. It should be less than one amp. If it is then the problem is intermittent. If it isn’t then there is excessive resistance in the circuit and perform the following

  1. When it’s activated see if you can blow lightly through it. IF you can’t there may be a blockage causing excessive resistance. Replace EGR solenoid as needed. If there is no blockage, disconnect the EGR solenoid and the PCM connector containing the EGR solenoid control circuit. Using a digital Volt-Ohm meter (DVOM) check resistence between the control circuit and battery ground. It should be infinite. If it isn’t, then there is a short to ground on the control circuit. Repair the short to ground and retest as needed.

  2. If the solenoid doesn’t click as it should, disconnect the EGR solenoid connector and connect a test light between the two wires. Using the scan tool, command the EGR solenoid on. The light should light up. If it does, replace the EGR solenoid. If it does not perform the following: a. Check for 12 Volts on the ignition supply voltage to the solenoid. If it isn’t present, inspect the supply circuit for an open, or a short due to chafing or breakage and re-test. b. If it still doesn’t operate: then manually ground the EGR solenoid control circuit. The light should light. If it does, repair open in EGR solenoid control circuit and re-test. If it doesn’t, replace EGR solenoid.

So if I had questioned the manufacturer I would have saved $80. What I find odd is that not all auto stores have the Solenoid listed and some list a controller. Also some do not list a valve. What are the connections of these 3 parts and are any a alternate name for the other? When I get home tonight I am going to pull my Haynes repair manual out along with some internet searching.

So my next task after I get the code read is to figure what is needed. I am going to replace the spark plugs wire and distributor rotor since I seem to have a miss and the originals are 9 years old.

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I used to trust the Mitsubishi parts place when it was Owned by Delaware Cadillac but when they switched with Castle Subaru/hyndia on 13 for their parts business I lost my trusted parts guy. If you know me I usually am positive and/or constructive but I have nothing nice to say about Castle Subaru on 13 except its worth the drive to go somewhere else. Del Cad had an awesome parts dept for Mitsu parts. The parts guy was honest unlike Castle Sub/Hyn on 13.

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Al, you mean OBD II, not CBD II.

I’m not familiar with the Mitsu so much, but am more familiar with the GM vehicles. I made a box to communicate with my OBD I (transam) car and used some free (or cheap) software to reflash the chip as well as other free software (with some modification) to get full readout (all sensors, ect.) from the car.

OBD II isn’t as easy to communicate to and most of the freeware folks have gone to commercial, from when I used to mess around with the stuff back in the day. I’ll look around but from what I remember $200 was the going rate back then.

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Looks like this will work for software er-forum.de

And this for hardware. http://www.obdpros.com/

Not sure of compatibility for each of the cars listed, but I believe it would work, check the protocol versions for your cars.

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Yeah CBD was a typo sorry

That first link was a binary file that wants to be saved. Kind of nervous saving a file without any knowledge what evil I may bring my way.

The hardware you show is $85 without the software (I’ve seen that site before). Did you check the link I gave? Its more about $200 but includes software. Is that software something you use? If you could look at that link and tell me the difference I would appreciate it.

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First link. Sorry about that. Got to that link from: er-forum.de from: http://www.obd-diag.de/ which I was led to from: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/engine-management-obd-ii-engine-diagnostics-etc/71038-free-obd-ii-software.html

Yea, I’ve heard good things about AutoTap, but never used it. Not sure if you wanted the cheapo version or not, the first link is for the software, its free.

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Make sure you are clearing your codes and they are setting again as well. You can pull the battery terminal for 10 mins to clear the codes. The car will have to ‘relearn’ a bit for a few days. If after a week or so the codes don’t return, your good to go.

PS I drive with my ‘SERVICE ENGINE SOON’ light on all the time, it keeps me company, along with the ‘LOW COOLANT’ light that’s been on for 3 years, good thing my temperature gauge doesn’t work!

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Hey Al, Have you checked all your vacuum hoses and connections for leaks? at 9 years old, the hoses get dry, stiff, brittle, cracked or just loose. you can cut a 1/2 inch off the end of a loose fitting hose and reinsert. a lot of those problems seem to revolve around vacuum response. its amazing how much a little leak, or loss of vacuum can throw all those sensors off. they over respond to a false reading. worth a look.

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[quote=“kaptken, post:11, topic:1172”]
Hey Al, Have you checked all your vacuum hoses and connections for leaks? at 9 years old, the hoses get dry, stiff, brittle, cracked or just loose. you can cut a 1/2 inch off the end of a loose fitting hose and reinsert. a lot of those problems seem to revolve around vacuum response. its amazing how much a little leak, or loss of vacuum can throw all those sensors off. they over respond to a false reading. worth a look. [/quote]

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look im a auto tech i live just south of dover and have a scanner if you want to meet up with me pm me your number