what is the best protien skimmer for a 10 gallon fuge for a 55 gallon aquarium? i was thinking about the biggest one coral life make but i thought i should ask the sight first. thank
Is the tank drilled or are you using an OTB overflow. The answer to this would change my answer a bit.
Some links
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/proskimrart2.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimbestof.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
i was goin to feed the tank water in the fuge without any drill required. i tink i am going to put it in the first baffle but im not soure.
So you are using an over the back siphon to take water from the display to the sump, correct?
Just want a better understanding of the set up you are attempting.
thats correct. (i am also going to put my heater down there) after it passes threw the alge chamber the water will be shot up into the display tank. i think i am going to use a 500 gph pump and put a valve to make soure the flow isnt to great.
In regards to the pump with a valve:
If you restrict the flow you will increase the pressure. Less water will flow but it will have more pressure behind the water. Think of your garden hose and how you press the nozzle. At first it is very light flow (lot of water is held back) but as you restrict the water and open to a certain point the water has a lot of force. Now think of the same hose without a nozzle; low force large flow. Large flow is way better then large force. Also the water that is held back is doing no work yet it is using energy. Get something for the watts you are applying.
By using a “t” and a valve off the main line the water can be directed back to the sump and can be used to tumble a macro algae. See Attachment…
I will say with a 500 gph pump I doubt you will have too much water flow. Lets say the tanks are on top of each other and the flow will have to go up about 4 feet vertical and 0 feet horizontal. We will only use 1 90 degree elbow and include the ball valve you mentioned. We will assume the pipe is 3/4 inch diameter and its a Mag 5 pump (500 gph). Total losses are 4.48 feet of head pressure, or 1.94 PSI. with a flow rate of 279 GPH. See what head pressure can do? When you plumb the tank you will probably use another elbow or a 45 which will decrease the flow more. I don’ t think flow reduction is an issue. Most would say 500 gph is enough for a 55 gallon but I would add the “T” and a valve for water changes not reducing flow.
Ok that was .03 cents worth EvIl GrIn
Sump.bmp (350 KB)
Is this an over the back siphon with an overflow box, designed to only siphon when water is pumping? Or are you hoping to restrict the siphon or pump and try to get as much water siphoning out as you are pushing up?(bad, bad idea) Have to ask because I actually had a friend try to do the second of the two.
Jon
i was going to siphon the water down via gravity. i though i could put a valve or something. what do think about a 800 gph pump threw 2 returns. it would more or less look like a V.
I think there may be some confusion regarding the over-flow.
There are 2 methods of getting water from the DT to the sump.
- External over-flow box. Hangs on the back of the tank and siphons water from the DT through plumbing down to the sump.
- Drilled tank (internal overflow) - hole in the tank allows water to naturally follow gravity down to the sump.
If you drill the tank and use a slightly larger drain pipe you will drain the DT at the same rate you push water back up (assuming the pipes aren’t too drastically different). Having 2 return lines would allow flow through more area of the tank reducing the need for power-heads, wave makers etc.
If you opt for an over-flow box you need to be very aware of how fast it can drain vs. how fast the pump will push - otherwise you run the risk of ruining carpet.
I like Al’s idea of "t"ing off the retun line to send water to the DT and back to the sump. this enables you to put a valve on the sump line to restrict flow to the sump and force mroe water to the DT if needed. It also enables oyu to ensure the DT will drain at the same rate as the pump can return water - thus saving carpet.
There is a third meathod which for the purposes of this hobby I would call the wet floor meathod. Start a syphon just the way you would during a water change, but have a ball valve on the tube so you can change how much water is coming down. Then clamp the tube to the side of the tank and when the water starts to get full in the sump turn the pump on. Play with the ball valve until you have the water going up and the water going down even.
I’ve heard of people playing for this for two -three days and failing 8-9 times before they get it to work! Well work for 48 hours until they are asleep and then it drains their whole tank.
I could be reading it the wrong way, but it sounds like you were about to try the wet-floor method. I’d avoid it. 
As Craig said there are two ways to really do this. Overflow box(read $70-$80 and may still cause you wet floors in the future) or drilled tank(either DIYS or purchase a pre-drilled tank).
Jon
+1 Craig is an expert on a wet floor system. Not because of his overflow as his tank is drilled but he always leaves the RO unit on. 
Overflow Box
In the < $250 Area http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~action~view~idProduct~ACUPD~idCategory~FIPSISSIUH~category~Up_To_150_Gallons-Spray_Injection-In_Sump-Protein_Skimmers-Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies~vendor~.html
In the > $250 but < $300 Asm or Octopus Skimmers. Same design of the skimmer except the asm is a better material and quality. Octopus bought the designs and builds them cheaper for a lower retail price. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~category~ASM_G_2_Protein_Skimmer_w__Sedra_3500_Pump_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Protein_Skimmers_In_Sump_Venturi_100_250_Gallons~vendor~All_Seas_Marine_(ASM)~SearchStr~~action~view~idProduct~AG1151~idCategory~FIPSISVSHT.html
I have found that the sub $200 skimmers are good if you maintain the perfect bio-load but most people end up buying a new skimmer. Ken uses a seaclone skimmer and loves it. It is undersized and under powered but because he does maintaina balance with what goes in and what eventually comes out it works well. The rest of us are not that good. Buy a good skimmer.
If the tank is not tempered drill it. This will save you a wet floor at some point. My over the back overflow failed 2X after I thought I had it right. The pump used when you use a hang on the back. has to be under rated compared to the overflow.
[quote=“a1amap, post:11, topic:644”]
+1 Craig is an expert on a wet floor system. Not because of his overflow as his tank is drilled but he always leaves the RO unit on. :P[/quote]
Well you have to be an expert at something
I think worse then leaving the RO unit on is that I have utilized the “wet floor” method due to a cheap skimmer.
On more then one occasion I have had my CSS (Coralife Super Soaker) jump from dry skimming to extremely wet skimming without any prodding from me. Usually resulting in draining about 5 gallons of water from the tank.
Being as I can not afford the skimmer I want (Al’s) I am working on a design that will force the water back in to the sump if the collection system for the skimmer fills, thus preventing wet floors and dry pumps.
Oh yeah - moral of the story - buy a good skimmer.
BZ - hey, it was nice meeting you last night. exactly how far along are you in your setup? are you still in the planning stages? what size tank do you have?nevermind. 55g right?
the reason i ask is its probably not too late to have an overflow without purchasing a drilled tanks. i would definitely not go with the HOB(hang on back) overflow kit becuase of all the reasons mentioned above. there are a lot of hand members in this forum and im sure we can help you out. if the back of your tank is not tempered we can drill it and build an external overflow box with durso style drain. very quiet, efficient, and it wont take up any real estate in your tank. also, the advice about the returns are a good one. in a 55g, two loc line returns with a SWCD could almost eliminate the use of powerheads.
i dont think anyone has suggested it, but a 10g might be a little small for sump/fuge. you may want to think about a 20g. they will fit under a standard 48" stand with some coaxing.
also, craig is 100% right. dont skimp on the protein skimmer. it will probably be one of your most important investments. it doesnt mean that you need to spend a fortune. there are several affordable, high quality skimmers. also, purchasing an used skimmer is always an option. i saved almost $400 by getting my skimmer used and ive never had a problem with it.
some of the ideas i mentioned might seem a little complex, but they are really easy, cheap, and efficient.
Well im not an expert but I belive most, if not all 55g tanks are tempered.
[quote=“icy1155, post:15, topic:644”]
Well im not an expert but I belive most, if not all 55g tanks are tempered. [/quote]
I think just the bottoms are tempered. The back shouldn’t be.
yeah. we’ve had this discussison before
i was previously under the impression that only the bottom was tempered on 55g but apparently a lot of the older ones are temepred all the way around. if you buy a newer 55g tank then only the bottom should be tempered. you can find out by using a pair of polarized glasssess. if you can see a crosshatch pattern then the glass is tempered.
as for where i am right now i am still planning the 55. i do have a well running 25 with planty of zoos, mushrooms,a colt and a couple toadstools. the reason why im using the 10 not the 20 long is because it will not fit.right now i can stand the 20 long tank on the 55 stand. how much would it cost for the bulk head and what not???
i would use a 3/4" bulkhead for the drain and 2X 1/2" for the returns. you can get all three bulkheads for about $10 off of ebay.
3 X bulkheads $10 + s&h
glass for overflow $5-10 cut to order at lowes
GE silicone $5
misc plubming parts and pipe $10-15
not to mention that a lot of us have stuff laying around that could probably be donated. i have extra plumbing fittings, pipe glue, pipe cutter, and i can get free aquarium safe silicone from work. also, there are plenty of people that would help you drill your tank, me included, you just need to find out if its tempered on the back. what brand is it and when did you get it?
what size pump should i use. what kind of alge should go into the fuge. u are talking about pvcp right??