ReefKeeper Lite Question

DRC Archive General Saltwater Discussion
1

http://www.digitalaquatics.com/saltwater/RKL

so they are selling basic RK lites now for $99…

Basic: ($99.99)
1 x Head unit
1 x PC4 (4 outlets)
1 x temperature probe

Here are the better packages:

Plus: ($279.99)
1 x Head unit
2 x PC4 (total of 8 outlets)
1 x SL1 (Inputs: pH, ORP, Temperature, 2 x Switch Ports)
1 x Temperature probe
1 x FREE Digital Aquatics pH probe

NET: ($379.99)
1 x Head unit
2 x PC4 (total of 8 outlets)
1 x SL1 (Inputs: pH, ORP, Temperature, 2 x Switch Ports)
1 x NET Module
1 x Temperature probe
1 x FREE Digital Aquatics pH probe

i know it has wave maker capabilities, as well as other timers…

can someone explain the inputs to me, is it just saying this model is capable of a pH input that you have to purchase additionally…and so on…

what are the switch ports?

also can someone explain the difference between having 4 outlets for a tank and 8…

anything else would be greatly appreciated…ive been going reef crazy as of late, i need to post some pics of the planted tank once i get the cam back from the GF…with the holiday near, this is the only thing im asking for.

2

I’ll start with the easy one:

[quote=“longballz84, post:1, topic:2426”]
also can someone explain the difference between having 4 outlets for a tank and 8…[/quote]

It’s simple the number of outlets available to be controlled. Always go with more. Lights take up at minimum 2 outlets (actinic on 1 and daylights on the other). Heater takes up the 3rd (and maybe a 4th). Powerheads (minimum 1 - I run 3 on my 75).

[quote=“longballz84, post:1, topic:2426”]
can someone explain the inputs to me, is it just saying this model is capable of a pH input that you have to purchase additionally…and so on…[/quote]

The inputs are just that - places to plug probes in to. It may be capable of a PH probe, and ORP probe but you will have to purchase the probes seperately.

[quote=“longballz84, post:1, topic:2426”]
what are the switch ports?[/quote]

For controlling reactors. If you have a calcium reactor you’d plug it in there so that when necessary the controller will turn it on (and off as necessary) based on a corresponding probe.

I did quite a bit of research on controllers about a year or so ago and settled on the ReefKeeper 2 (no longer in production) I looked at each piece of the RKL (Lite) and priced them out seperately - in the end with all accesories and options the RKL ended up being more expensive then the RKE (Elite) and didn’t have nearly the functionality. The RKE will send you a text message if one of your parameters being monitored swings too far out of line.

Over all you may want to consider a used RK2 - I love mine, and I know a few others that use it that love theirs. The wavemaker function is really nice, the “feed” mode which shuts everything down for 10 minutes for feeding is nice as you never have to remember to turn them back on later. I like the fact that if my temperature gets above a certain level the RK2 will automatically shut my lights off until the temp goes back down to a set level.

Overall I liked the Reef Keepers better then the other controllers, but was disappointed with the RKL. Digital Aquatics wanted to put out a controller for under $149 to compete with the Neptune but I think they put too basic a model out. With the exception of the temp port I think everything else could be done by a Coralife digital power strip.

The RK2 is more then enough for my needs, but it someone were willing to spend the money on me it’d be an Elite all the way (lunar cycles, text messaging, email alerts).

Again these are simply MY opinions and should no way be considered a professional review. It’s been quite a while since I’ve looked at them.

3

i believe switch ports are for float switches. what u are talking about calcium reactor controlled by ph is on the pc4, is a switched outlet

4

[quote=“addicted2reefin, post:3, topic:2426”]
calcium reactor controlled by ph is on the pc4, is a switched outlet[/quote]

You’d be correct - sorry read it wrong and apparently didn’t think it all the way through.

5

controller vs controllers i would go with a neptune systems aquacontroller. the customer service from digital aquatics(reef keeper) is horrible. and the net functionality on the apex blows the reef keeper elite out of the water.

the rkl is a great unit as is the aquacontroller jr. the aquacontroller jr can be hooked up to a computer, and can also send txt messages alerts via aftermarket software. if u want something to controll/monitor ph, controll lights, powerheads and a few timers a rkl or ac jr will do. if u get a rkl u wanna go with stage 3. 2 pc4s is a must as is ph probe. if u only want one pc4, and ph buy the rkl base on and a sl1 seperatly. 99+60 = 160 which is much cheaper than rkl lvl 2.

what you would want to controll on a switched outlet is lights, heater(temp control), powerheads(wave maker), reactors/ato pump. this would be about 6 outlets atleast.

6

the only other thing a coralife strip cant do is ph monitoring and ato control :D. the rkl can now interface with any module other than the net too.

7

last post on this thread untill someone else post i promise! FWIW im investing in an apex. 500 bucks and you get a great controller with the best internet capabilitys. you can controll you tank over the internet/

8

lol, thanks addicted+Cdangel0, im really just now getting my feet wet with this info and its all appreciated…

i was also reading up on the neptune, and customer service is an important part of every purchase i make for the tank when it comes to equipment.

i think when it comes to switch ports, 4 would be enough initially, but i could probley quickly outgrow that…

u are know free to post again, lol

9

If I were going to go with one of the entry level models I would probably make it the Neptune Aqua Controller Jr. I think you get more bang for your buck then you do with the RKL. But like I said before - I’d REALLY like to have a Reef Keeper Elite.

I haven’t heard bad things about Digital Aquatics customer service. They have their own forums on their site as well as on RC. Even if you just have a question and they are not monitoring the board at that moment SOMEONE probably is who can answer it for you.

Definitely do your research and compare each model to it’s counterpart.

10

many people on rc have said getting ahold of digital aquatics is a crap shoot. i have no first hand experience, as im still looking into a controller

11

does anyone have any experience with putting powerheads on timers?

i tried hooking one of my koralias to a timer and the prop would get stuck from time to time, and i would have to put my finger in to get it started again…

i would like to buy an MP20 next time i find a tank breakdown, but i was just wondering if anyone has accomplished this successfully…i would like to have one of my pumps come on and off around ever 5 to 15 mins.

12

i have tunzes on timers. only running for a week, though. one’s on then the other in 15 min segments.

13

Paul - Im not sure which Tunze you have, but the ones with the transformers/drivers should not be put on timers.

longballz - ive had MJmods on a reeffanatic wavemaker for over a year. the only issue is the making a humming noise periodically, but ive had no start/stop issues with them. the come on and go off in about 30 second intervals. the vortechs are nice. i have an mp20 and an mp40. couple of minor issues here and there, but i think they are the best thing out there for the price.

14

if you could logan, can you explain the differences between the MP20 and MP40…

i know the controller is different, but besides that i dont really know to much…i would awesome the 40 is much more powerful than the 20…which is crazy because those 20’s really kick…

what would be the pros/cons of the MP models in general? i know some people would consider the price a con maybe, but i dont when it comes to quality of that standard.

also, do you think i could run 1 mp20, and my return pump only (a mag i got used, no clue of the gals. rating but it kicks hard)…to support my 55 gallon? right now the tanks mixed reef, but im slowly going lps/sps totally.

15

shawn, i have the 6025’s. are they also the no timer? could you explain why they should not be timed?

16

FWIW,
The maxi-jets with the mods are hit and miss.
I’ve one that makes absolutely no noise on start up or while running (no hum), I’ve one that ALWAYS clacks on startup, but no hum, and one that SOMETIMES clacks on startup and SOMETIMES hums. I run my MJs around 30sec on 15sec off intervals.
If they all were like the first one I would happy as can be, but it has been hit or miss with me for them.

IMO the MPs rock simply because they can adjust flow, they are DC pumps and therefor the flow they produce is adjustable based on the controller. I don’t know what the differences are between the 20/40s, never used them. The only downside I see to them is they won’t interface with another controller (I like everything in one) and of course the price is a bit of an ouch point.

17

Hey Mike, you might want to check out some of the deals over on Reef-Geeks, a vendor had some MPs for a great deal.

18

I’ve heard you can fix the clacking of the Koralias with a small piece of drinking straw on the shaft. But I’ve never tried it, I run 3 different Koralias on a timer and only 1 of them clacks and it is so minor I rarely even notice it anymore.

Which - thanks for reminding me - is something else I like about the Reef Keepers. They have a “soft start” for powerheads used on the wave maker function. It starts them off at lesser power to reduce the clacking noise and once they get spinning it gives them full power.

19

this question got stuck at the bottom of pg 1
shawn or anyone, i have the 6025’s. are they also the no timer? could you explain why they should not be timed?

20

Paul - The 6025 doesnt have a driver so its probably not as big of an issue. I acually have the same pump. Manufactures, of course, never recommend putting their powerheads on a timer but i dont think its as big an issue with the nano pumps.

Mike - the MP20 and MP40 are actually the same exact pump. The only thing that makes them different is the driver. Also, the wirless interface is related to the generation and not the size. All new MP20s and MP40s come with the wirelss interface. Im not sure if the interoperable, but my guess would be that they are. If you have an MP20 and you want an MP40 you only need to buy the new driver(which is still expensive!). This has been the same for Tunze pumps for years. I know they are expensive, but the features you get for the price make them more than worth it. They are literally plug and play!