I am upgrading from a 72g corner to a 120g. When i get the 120 setup i am under orders from the boss to sell the 72g corner (only one tank).
I plan to take everyting out of the 72g and put into buckets.- Then put the sand, rocks and fish with 50% of the water from the old tank into the new tank and put the frags back into the old tank. Then leave the frags in the old tank for some time and maybe a month later put the frags into the new tank. Then sell the 72g corner.
I could save more water b4 the transfer in a mixing bucket?
??? will the new tank cycle even if i use the water and stuff from old tank (using a new FUGE).
that’s a beautiful corner tank, i must say!
seems to me that just moving everything from one tank to another does not mean there’s a new cycling that has to be done. i aint no expert, but that makes sense. except for the sand, there should be no prob. sand when disturbed can release all kindsa stuff into the environment. kapten ken understands the sand bed really well, so maybe he can send some info on that issue yr way.
It will cycle. The real question is how big will the cycle be ???
Disturbing the sand will release the stored nutrients/junk that has accumulated over the years.
But by removing all the biological filtration (sand/rock) from the old tank it will also cycle. Your softies will be fine I would worry more about the SPS coral.
The good news is your sand bed is shallow so less to disturb and your bio load looks small (yellow, 2 percs)
If it were me, I would put fresh sand in the new tank and add the rock, fish and corals minus any sensitive corals (SPS). The 50/50 water mix is fine. The bacteria in the rock will colonize the sand bed and once the new tank cycles (should be smaller) you can slowly add the old sand. (washed in fresh saltwater to remove nutrients and junk). This will give you live sand that is clean and not going to trigger another large cycle.
Al, pretty much nailed it, but your sand bed looks super shallow, so I doubt there are much of a bio filtration coming from it or nutrient build up from it. I don’t think you will have much trouble, just keep an eye out daily when you do the change over. Maybe bump the water change schedule a little and/or add some carbon.
If you could get the 120 setup for about a week and throw a rock or two from the 72 into there that would be a better bet…
[quote=“Rich_17, post:6, topic:1875”]
Is there a disadvantage to the rocks sitting on top of the sandbed.[/quote]
YES! Its called a rock slide. When we were setting up our tank, we just put the rocks on the sand. Well that was cause of rock slide #1, because the rocks will eventually settle through the sand and when they do they shift a little. you would be better off putting the rock in first, and then the sand to make sure that everything is stable.
Oh before I can forget watch your torch coral and that little brain frag. As I am sure you know since you are keeping three or more species of Euphyllia in that tank they all put out sweeper tentacles and will hurt near by stonies. Twice in the last two months I have had some Euphyllia sting brain corals.(Don’t worry moliken it wasn’t the one I got from you)
People have kept marine tanks in the past doing 50% water changes and you are changing from a 72g to a 120g which isn’t twice as big. Many times I have done 50% changes on tanks that I have serviced for my work and the tanks have been better for it.(because conditions were pretty bad I DO NOT recommend 50% changes are a regular part of maintenance and they should be avoided) But I think you will be ok.
I have also upgraded tanks many times with that much of a change and been fine. I have also split tanks in two with adding 50% new water in each tank. I am also continuously starting qt tanks by using cycled water from other tanks with no problem. It is 100% doable.
I agree with what Al(a1amap) and was going to say almost the exact same thing.
I am sending you a PM please give me a call sometime during the day, so I can help with at least some phone tech support in plain English.
As far as the sand goes either set the rocks in first(at least the bottom ones) so as Icy said they will not shift around as animals dig under them or power heads move sand around OR as Al said lift the rocks up.(I have seen this neatly done with thick clear acrylic rods.I have a source)
I would also add that I think many people have gotten the idea of taking things slow, but when it comes time to set upgrade a reef tank they move too fast. I have ran 75g tanks for… years with out having water overflowing down the over flow box. These tanks run with out chillers, skimmers, reactors, or whatever else. Just power heads, heaters, and lights. This typically requires frequent water changes, but will do more then just keep the animals alive.
If you are worried about stressing the animals out too much with all the new water from the larger tank and fuge then move them one night and wait a week until you add any water. Probably best that you set up the new tanks plumbing and have everything ready as it may be a lot easier to work on with out hot lights in the way or water you could drop things into.
Really think out the new tank as well. Take a look into closed loops and seriously consider making swiss cheese out of your new tank.(lol it’s not really that bad)
[quote=“Gordonious, post:10, topic:1875”]
I am sending you a PM please give me a call sometime during the day, so I can help with at least some phone tech support in plain English. [/quote]
I would like the perfect world and have all my live rock ready for the new tank but my 72 only holds so much (and it is full) I will end end up buying more at some point.
Q- is it better to buy it in advance and store them in a mixing bucket or just wait and set the tank up and buy later.
I have my 30g QT running with dead (semi-live) rock for the base waiting for the big move.
well, ive had live rock in a couple trash cans with a lid on for a year. no heater and just a good air stone to keep them aerobic and alive. I was letting the dark clear them of algae. but with the airstone some of the starfish and sponges stay alive, and the rock fresh and alive. i took some out for the sump of the new frag tank, and to my surprise, after a year, i see some of the anulid type worms still poking out of the holes in the rock.
so you could shop for a few show pieces, as you find them, they take time to find. and keep them in 20 gallon black trash can with air stone and a heater if you want to preserve more life. and they will clean up some and be nice. if they are real good, put an actinic lamp over them too. to my surprise, my rock , a year in the barrel, still had a bit of purple coraline. which seems to be coming back now that its in the sump, with only room light. otherwise they are mostly clean rock. and a few yellow sponges too.
but storing in a trash can with an airstone for oxygen and mixing and heater will work. and use your old tank water from water changes to change the barrel water. It;s alive.
With the quantity of rock you have you probably don’t need to purchase any more live rock unless you find something you really really like. I stopped buying LR many years ago. There are many sources of dry rock that actually looks really good. Try looking into Marco rocks for starters. There is another one that is supposed to be really good, but I forget the company currently.
Also looking at your current tank it seems to be healthy. If you are happy with what you have currently and just want to replicate it in a bigger scale then I wouldn’t purchase anything “liveâ€ÂÂÂÂÂÂÂ. You run the risk of importing tons of pests.
It will be expensive to do as well. Consider not only the price of the rock, but the price of curing as it can be difficult to buy truly cured rock. Massive water changes and skimming will hit your water bill, electric bill, and perhaps most important your time. Uncured rock will surely cause some casualties with your stonies. Oh and the rock is likely to smell and the tank will smell and your house will smell and your wife will hate the tank even more.
I would recommend using a heater where ever you store the rock unless you plan to keep your temp in your reef tank with out a heater.
Others may disagree, this is just my opinion. There is more then one way to go about just about everything in this hobby.