Since I’m starting over w/ a new tank, I figured I’d take the time to plumb in a line for an ATO from my RO/DI unit to my sump. This entails running 1/4" tubing from the kitchen sink down to the basement, across the house, then back up to the aquarium in the living room (30-40’). What type/brand of ATO are you guys using? Just fishing for suggestions.
Thanks!
Hey if you’re willing to sign a waiver holding the club and it’s officers harmless in the event of electrocution, fire, or pregnancy we have some nice ATO boxes we can sell cheap >LOL<
I personally still use the 5 gallon bucket method of ATO - but I know BillRob71 has done some research on them and is looking to put the guts from a commercial one in to a DRC box. I’d send him a PM if her doesn’t post here soon.
Haha I’m not the litigious type anyways! Thanks Craig, I’ll send him a PM.
if you find one hat will pump that far let me know i have to go from a closet up to the attic and back down the wall and out to the tank bout 35 feet span
Craig the ATO doesn’t determine how far it will pump but the pump that the ATO is operating. You could easily hook an ATO to a Mag12 and use it to fill a swimming pool a block away.
i thought the ato controal couldnt handel the amp draw of the larger pumps.am i wrong?
I don’t need a pump for my ATO. The pressure from the RODI unit is more than adequate to get the water to the sump on the other side of the house. Are there ATOs available that do not just control a pump (that I don’t need)? I basically need a float valve that opens when the water level gets low.
I found this link (thx Jon) to another ATO discussion but I’m not sure any of these will fit the bill for what I need. I don’t need a pump to turn on, just need a valve to open as the water pressure from my rodi is good enough.
http://delreefclub.org/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=28&topic=3965.0
You really don’t need an ATO at all then. What you essentially need is an ASV (Auto-Shut Off Valve). Hooked up t a float switch this will enable your RODI to automatically top off your sump when the level gets low enough to drop your float switch. When the float switch goes up it creates pressure in the ASV and shuts off the RODI.
Simple plan and design. I only see 2 concerns with this idea.
Oh but if you want to do it that way you can probably get all the pieces you need form one of our LFS for under $20.
Hahaha… on the divorce decree… “it was her turn to mop”
Yeah…I’ve had enough water on my living floor this past week to last me a lifetime. I agree that the float valve is the way to go, but I would like some sort of backup system to the float valve that would mitigate any potential sump overflow issues. As far as your two concerns:
I have a line plumbed in directly from my RO/DI output under my kitchen sink to the sump, so I really wouldn’t have to take anything apart to make the replacement water (if I understand you correctly). The RO unit automatically creates and stores the water, then when it would be called for at the sump, the ASV would just open and allow it to flow into the sump.
This is a major concern. The flooding anyways. My wife realizes how lucky she is and would never THINK of leaving me… ;D
drill a hole in the sump, near the top, insert half inch bulkhead, and put an overflow hose on it and run it to a drain, or outside. that should work. It wont save your tank from going fresh water, but the floor wont get wet.
I think what Craig is talking about is you would have to take apart the RO water line from the sump, in order to make saltwater for a water change. But you could just put a tee in the line with a shut off valve and use it to fill your water change pail.
Ken - that is a GREAT idea!!
John - exactly -thanks for clarifying my point.
So is there any bullet proof way of not ending up with a wet floor? That is my biggest concern with having everything automated, if something fails, your tank turns into a freshwater setup and the floor becomes a swimming pool. I’d rather carry 5g buckets all day and have my tank and floor normal, but I really want to automate top off and water changes SAFELY. Am I asking to much? verdict_in
yes. our tanks top off this way and i know shawn has been doing this for years and has never had a spill. i know we dont use the mechanical float switch talked about earlier in the thread and shawn says ASOV’s frequently failed and shouldnt be relied on. We actually just replaced one that failed and was always draining water through the waste line. I asked shawn to reply to this post and he said that he has posted similar information previously about it and it should be searchable. He also gave a detailed schematic to the club for the ATOs with parts list. I asked him to make a diagram of the auto WC system he built for Paul and of all the failsafes we use on our system. He said the only thing you need is a redundant float that stays out of the water, a digital timer with an interval set that will only allow a little more water to top off than evaporates daily, and to make sure that the timer defaults to OFF when power/battery goes out. Another thing he says is important is to put the solenoid on the main in tap water line for the rodi instead of the rodi out. This way when the tank isnt topping off during the timer interval there cant be a leak. He says this actually makes this way of topping off safer than using a reservoir despite all the people that say this way is dangerous. The reason is that if any part of the rodi unit leaks like the canisters, fittings, or tubing going to reservoir or drain there wont be a mess because the main water feedin the rodi is turned off. The last thing he says people can do if they are really paranoid is wire a water on floor sensor to the normally on solenoid on the tap water line but we dont do that and he says its overkill. i had him look over this post and he says everything is correct but i apologize if i didnt explain it well.
No need for apologies, thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I a more of a hands on visual learner. I understand putting a float valve on a timer, makes perfect sense, since the most you can add is what the timer lets you. Just have enough space in the sump if the pump was turned on the whole time that it wouldn’t overflow, if infact the valve does get stuck. I am not sure I like the idea of having the RO/DI add the water directly to the tank though for ATO. I’ve been told that isn’t good for whatever reason I don’t remember (big help there) but that I should put it into a container then add it as needed. Something to do with the RO/DI going off for a gallon or two each day isn’t good, it should just run for a longer period of time once a week or so, maybe makes the filters last, I can’t remember. I’d also have to have a separate valve to prevent the topoff water from going too low tho so the pump doesn’t run dry. I am considering using a gravity/vacuum fed ATO like the one used on the solana setup. Just have a sealed container above the sump line with a hose fed into the sump. When the level drops air gets into the container and water is released until it is above the hose and seals the vacuum back up. Any thoughts on that? I would love to see a schematic of what Shawn used, especially with what parts he used, what to buy. Thanks for the help.
pm sent
Could you send me that schematic as well please?
Thanks!