I have an old PC light that i want to gut and put T-5 lights in, the light is 48’’…
I bought a 18’’ t-5 fixture at the ECA swap for really cheap and was wondering if i can use the end caps in there?
so my plan would be to buy two more end caps for a total of 4…then buy the ballast and reflectors…
is it this easy, or do i have to match ballast with caps?
i have a t-5 light on my 55, but this will be on a breeder tank…ive never seen a t-5 ballast, but i have taken apart a lot of PC’s…is the ballast footprint for both lights about the same? that was also my concern…on second thought i remember someone selling a t-5 ballast at a meeting a while ago and it was slimer than a PC ballast…and just about as long.
also from a wiring aspect i work around electricians who im sure can wire it up…any concerns i should have here?
any other concerns with retro’ing an old PC light into a t-5 light?
I did this to my light fixture a while back. It was a 48" 2X250H with 4X 24" PC. I gutted the PC and installed T5s. Its probably one of the best things i have ever done and have preached this method for a long time.
My advice would be to stay away from the workhorses, triads, sylvanias, etc and go with an IceCap 660. Its a FAR superior ballast in most ways, very flexible, and has a very high resell value. You can absolutely use the endcaps you already have and pic up non-waterproof endcaps for the rest. You can buy them for $1.99 a pair. I actually have 3 extra laying around and a whole spool of wire when you get around to it. You can mount the 660 internally but i would recommend a mounting the ballast remotely. As far as the footprint for the ballast, you should be ok becuase most OEM PC ballast only fire 2 bulbs so there is more than likely two ballasts in your fixtures now. You can pick up a molex style power connecter for about .25 cents that doesnt need any special tools to install. Its the same style connector used on the 660 and computer power supplies in case your not familiar with them. This would allow you to quick-disconnect your ballast from your light fixture. When your ready to build i can give you a hand if you want. It would only take us about two hours to completely gut and rewire the fixture and your welcome to use my wire.
I will go along with Shawn saying that the icecap 660 ballasts for 4 T5s is much better. But that is because they overdrive the 48 inch T5 lamps at VHO 80 watts each. nothing wrong with that. more power, more light output. But for a regular HO retro, the workhorse ballasts are good too. They just run the lamps at their normal rated power.
If the budget is low you’ll be fine w/o the icecap660 (~$150). If you have to choose between the icecap and individual slr reflectors, I’d go for the reflectors and cheap ballast. You can keep just about anything with decent water quality and T5s with individual reflectors
If you have to choose between the icecap and individual slr reflectors, I'd go for the reflectors and cheap ballast. You can keep just about anything with decent water quality and T5s with individual reflectors
I dont disagree that SLR is the way to go or that reflectors are important. However, i would go with overdriven bulbs and a flatplan reflector any day of the week. Couple of things to keep in mind. Your going to being putting these in a fixture which means it will sit higher off the tank than a retro and its going to likely have glass or plexiglass splashguards. The truth is that you cant grow anything with NO T5s unless your tank is VERY shallow or you put all of the higher light corals at the VERY top of the tank. The people, like Ellen and TOTM winners, that have great luck with T5s also have top of the line fixtures with full T5 arrays. Quality makes all the difference in the world of T5 lighting. I know, my first lighting system 5 years ago was a 4 bar SLR retro powered by triad ballasts and the only SPS i could get to grow was in the top 6" of my tank which really limited my aquascaping. For me, with lighting, you always start with the ballast. If you cheap out, you will regret it. Keep in mind also that although the 660 is expensive you will also only need one not two like most of the cheaper ballasts. They are also MUCH more versaitle than any other T5 ballasts and its something you will likely keep forever and if not, you will get your money back if you sell them. Used NO T5 ballasts are pretty much given away but a 660 in good condition will always go for about $100. Im not saying that you should buy equipment based on the resell, but its always a point i consider when making purchases. High end equipment costs more, but it also retains it’s value better on the secondary market if you ever decided to upgrade.
the price on the 660 ballast wouldnt kill me, and since i could run 4 bulbs off of it, that would be a plus…ill be doing some research…
thanks logan, the caps and wiring would be greatly appreciated…the DIY projects are just awesome, and i cant wait till im capable of building an entire system (tank, stand, light, skimmer, ect…)
this would be cool to do at one of the meetings, i now 2 hours is pretty long, maybe i can prep. the stuff to cut some time…
within the next 2-3 weeks ill be making a purchase.
To add to what Shawn said and to clarify some terms.
For a 4 foot T5 lamp, a NO(Normal Output, 400 miliamp) ballast runs it at 28 Watts like the T5 strip lights at Home Depot, a HO(High Output, 800 miliamp) ballast runs it at 54 Watts and an Icecap ballast drives the lamp at VHO(Very High Output, 1500 miliamp) of 85 Watts for the VHO rating.
The Icecap ballasts not only cost more initially, have higher resale value down the road but are also repairable. You can send them back for repair not only during the warrantee period, but any time there after, and for a repair fee have it made good as new. unlike most ballasts they can be opened to replace parts like circuit boards and fuses and stuff. Potted electronic balllasts cant be repaired. just toss it and buy a new one.
The Fulham WorkHorse 7 ballast operates 4 4 foot T5 lamps at the 54 watt HO amperage of 800 miliamps. and is pretty dependable and costs about $35-$40.
UVL also markets their A4 VHO ballast, which is an Icecap 660 painted red. It usually goes for about $130. and is warranted by Icecap.
Individual parabolic reflectors are the best at directing and focusing the total lamp output into the tank. Flat pan reflectors have way too much restrike on the back side of the lamps and put much less ofyour lumens into the tank. its a Billiards type geometry problem. You can make the good shot from anywhere on thetable to the pocket, or hit the pile of balls and just bounce around. I read somewhere the proper width of a parabolic reflector is 5 times the diameter of the lamp. so for a 5/8 " T5 that would be 3 1/8 inch. most reflectors scrimp a little and make them about 2 1/2" , but that little peaked fold above the lamp helps make up for it . the small “W” helps get the light around the lamp so thatthey can be mounted closer together.
thanks for the additional info…i dont know a lick about overdriving…so ill just spew some crap i heard from someone…
if you could analyze overdriving the bulbs is it worth it? would it use more electric? (although minimal probley)…does the life of the bulbs drastically shorten? would i see the added benefit if i had a tank with OD lights next to one with HO lights?
also i failed to mention…my ultimate plan for this lighting system will be for my marine planted tank…does this change anyones mind on the route i should take? the tank is also 13-14’’ deep max…who knows tho because right now these are my plans, and i dont really want to short sell myself on the lighting for future purposes…
if anyone can add anything else i left out please do…this lighting stuff is interesting with boundless options.