first off how often do most of u change your vho bulbs?
any reckomend brands or places to buy?
a lil poor right now workmans comp for the last 5 weeks hasnt payed well. so i was also wondering about changing just 2 of the 4 bulbs this month and maby 2 next. the set up is 4 48 inch vho 2 10k 2 actitnic ice cap 660-009 would it be better to do the 10k or the actenic first. the bulbs in there now are genx i think they have done a good job as we keep several sps but i would be up to recomendations of better bulbs. thanks for your help guys. o ya ps the bulbs have been in around 6 months i just feel like its time for a change of bulbs looking at the tank if that makes sence.
I usually change mine out one a year.
I went to Delaware Premium Aquatics and got the best price.
Yeah, i had DPA order me some UVL VHOs last week. no shipping! I like the UVL or formerly known as URI,. they have the best actinics. I should change them every 6-9 months but oftern forget to write down when i install them and go beyond. but the light quality degrades a lot after 8 months. although people who use icecap ballasts seem to have them last longer.
(((((icecap ballasts seem to have them last longer.))))) >LOL< ;D ;D ;D ;D
They do in deed.
8 months to a year is the general consensus on life for vho’s. I use UVL 10k and super actinic 6 footers on the big tank. I use a 430 ice cap ballast to power these. Personally I say you got a couple months left in those bulbs unless they are overdrivin so replace 1 or 2 now and the rest later.
And yes ice cap rocks 
How/why do the ice caps make the bulbs last longer I’m curious (don’t have an opinion either way, just curious)
something to do with the lamp starting control circuitry, which soft starts the lamps, extends cathode life, and the frequency and amperage they put out. a combo of technical stuff. and they are repairable. which adds to the cost. but a good ballast.
URI sells an ICECAP made ballast, called the A4 URI ballast, which is a 660 painted red, without a dimmer and heat sink. you can find it some places for $130.
[quote=“kaptken, post:7, topic:1666”]
something to do with the lamp starting control circuitry, which soft starts the lamps, extends cathode life, and the frequency and amperage they put out. a combo of technical stuff. and they are repairable. which adds to the cost. but a good ballast.
URI sells an ICECAP made ballast, called the A4 URI ballast, which is a 660 painted red, without a dimmer and heat sink. you can find it some places for $130. [/quote]
Cool, good to know. I might have to look into upgrading to an ICECAP for my T5s
O-Yeah! The 660 ballast will drive 48" T5’s at about 80 watts each and still make them last longer. And the UVL lamps are sposedly made to handle that extra wattage. although i think the Icecaps will drive any T5 HO lamp the same without much harm.
Yup, The ICECAP VHO ballasts are the best, in my opinion. And the UVL lamps are great too. But lamp spectrum, phoshor composition are a matter of taste, vision and personal preference. THe choice is yours.
But theres no advantage in wasting your watts and lamp dollars. so seek the best and most efficient light to the tank delivery systems. IE: Ballasts, Lamps, Phosphors and Reflectors to get the most bang for your buck in the form of Quality life supporting Light into and onto the corals in your tank. Think of it as a total sum solution. What performance at what cost? Cost to performance is not always linear.