Really all you can do is wait it out. Feed garlic soaked foods look for any sign of common disease. Is it being erratic at night? I really don’t know what to tell you besides you had a Spike and the tang is stressed. That’s where you got the hair algae from probably.
How about the amm, nitrite, nitrate levels? Phosphate? nitrates lead to the hair algae. Any recent swings in salinity? Your SG is up to 1.028 is that on purpose or is it swinging up there? (forgot to add water for a day then dumped it in?)
Get it eating again, garlic soaked? Selcon soaked? Attach some nori to a rock with rubber bands and drop it in
[quote=“IanH, post:6, topic:1149”]
How about the amm, nitrite, nitrate levels? Phosphate? nitrates lead to the hair algae. Any recent swings in salinity? Your SG is up to 1.028 is that on purpose or is it swinging up there? (forgot to add water for a day then dumped it in?)
Get it eating again, garlic soaked? Selcon soaked? Attach some nori to a rock with rubber bands and drop it in[/quote]
I agree the salinity is a bit high. Also before soaking food in garlic I would soak the food in selcon or some other multi vitamin. As for the hair algae it is growing because of a Nitrates, phosphates and light. As Ian pointed out these numbers are important too.
Any new tank inhabitants? Someone may be picking on the tang although the yellow tangs usually are the boss of the tank.
wow-
My SG is 1.030- i have an open/home made 30g fuge and only check the SG after water changes and not b4. My mixing barrel tests at 1.024. It must evaporate and go through the roof.
My temp creaped to 82- maybe the wx changes? turned it down
I am adding RO water-
I think it is the tank and not the fish- i have had the fish for 1.5 years and he is the king of the tank. His fin looks like it took a hit but dont think it is another fish.
Other levels- i have a phosphate reator and it is steady at 0.25
ammonia=0
nitrite=0
NITRATE= 5-10 range== something is wrong - i added new LR??? is the tank cycling? or something
According to my research on Hyposalinity the SG can be reduced faster then raised. This is not to say I would change it lower in one shot but it would be ok to do it over 2-3 days vs. a week
Both will work
If you remove some water and added the replacement water as ro it would change quicker. Do not add too much at one time and make sure the temp is correct when adding. As you do this continue to watch ph since the ro water will usually have a ph of 7 this could swing your numbers.
[quote=“a1amap, post:10, topic:1149”]
According to my research on Hyposalinity the SG can be reduced faster then raised. This is not to say I would change it lower in one shot but it would be ok to do it over 2-3 days vs. a week[/quote]
Not to say your wrong, but I thought I read somewhere basically the opposite. That SG could go up faster than down.
Either way slower is better, I go by about .001 a day for a target.
Water changes will help. You need to reduce nitrates and phosphates and/or grow a macro algae that will use the nutrients faster then nuisance algae.
Most information I have read is to raise SG by .003 per day but you can lower at a faster rate (from 1.024 to 1.009 in about 2-4 days. (When I did hypo I lowered the Sg from 1.025 to 1.01 in 2 days with a hippo and yellow tang.)
The reason you can lower the Sg faster? Natural Sea Water is much more saline than the internal fluids of marine fish. Because of this, they expend a considerable amount of energy to reduce the excessive salt load through the process of osmoregulation. So in this case his tang is working a lot harder to expel salt then it would at 1.025 and is most likely dehydrated.(among other things) Sounds weird but a fish in water is dehydrated. When you lower the saline it is easier on the fish so adjustment is easier. When you raise the saline level the fish must work harder so it is best to go very slowly.
[quote=“Rich_17, post:16, topic:1149”]
any harm in rubbing off that turf stuff or does that spread it[/quote]
Ok that’s too easy. I will leave it to CD0…What ever you makes you happy. Actually by removing or trimming you will encourage growth and export more nutrients. Once the nutrients are reduced the grown will stop and it will die back. Besides water changes and growing macro make sure you are not adding additional nutrients with your water change and top off water. Use a TDS meter and change filters on RO if needed
I just starting running my fuge light at night and off in the day. I have a lot of macro in the fuge. I am thinking about running the light day and night for the short term.