175g Oceanic Bowfront Build

[NerdCage]

Since I decided to get into the hobby, my father-in-law has been trying to get me to take his friend’s Oceanic 175g Bowfront. Seemed too big to start, and I didn’t have a good spot, so I kept passing.

After a year in the hobby he wore me down, I made space for it in my basement and moved it in this past weekend.

The tank is over 10 years old, but it’s never had a drop of water in it. They guy bought it to setup a freshwater tank, but never did.

First step was prepping a really un-level, un-flat basement floor. I went with self leveling concrete and a trash bag underneath in case I ever need to remove it.

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[TheEngineer]

Welcome to the club :Welcome)

[NerdCage]

Next came the move. I had Tim from http://www.hydrographicsaquariumservice.com/ move the tank for me. His price was very reasonable, and he did a great job. Got it down the basement steps, no problem.

I’m breathing a little easier, it passed the 24 hour leak test this morning.

I’m currently working on plumbing and the sump. It’s being tricky because the curved stand with the center post doesn’t give me a ton of options for getting a tank in there. I have about 70"x16" to fit something, or 55"x18" depending on how I fit it. Only problem is I can’t get anything that would fill the whole space in there through the doors. I’m currently thinking about a series of 20g tanks from Petco’s $1/gallon sale.

In the sketch attached, water will drain from the tank into the 20g on top. That will be my Water Change compartment. Water will flow out of that, into the tank on the bottom right, where my skimmer will sit. I’ll have valves so I can cause the tank to drain directly into the skimmer, pump out the water in the top tank, fill it with RO/DI, add salt and mix. I’ll then switch the vales to put that tank back into the flow.

From the simmer tank, the water will go to the tank on the left where there will be baffles and an outlet to an external pump. I’m working on a layout where I can have the flow go Tank → Skimmer → Baffles → Return Pump <-> Fuge.

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[NerdCage]

The plan I’m currently working through is based on this design: Using a bean animal design on dual overflows - Reef Central Online Community

Tank has two corner overflows, each bottom drilled for a 1" and 3/4" bulkhead. My plan was right: 1" full siphon, 3/4" return. Left: 1" dry emergency, 3/4" wet skim. I’m looking to get 600 GPH through the sump, but concerned the holes I have aren’t going to be sufficient. Glass-holes.com lists the 1" bulkhead as being good for 300 GPH gravity drain. I’m willing to take the return up and over if getting the extra 3/4" bulkhead for drain would help. Though that puts me in a position where the dry emergency alone is not enough to handle the full flow of water should the other two get blocked. I’d appreciate any input or suggestions on this one.

[houndsbayman]

Don’t really understand what you mean by a “dry emergency, wet skim”

Why not just use both 1" bulkheads for drains and both 3/4" for returns. That gives you 600 GPH

[beadlocked450r]

I can tell you that if you run 1" drain at full syphon you wont have any issues with draining. I have about 4500gph going down 2 1" drains and i cant keep the 1" full without closing the ball valve. If you plumb it properly ou sholdnt have any issues. Pm me if i need to elaborate or this. I also have 2 differant sumps 1 is homemade and 1 is custom made with buolt in skimmer. Im not sure how well the skimmer wiorks i never used it but its good for upto 200g. Pm me i can send you pics if you like. Not looking to get rich just get rid of some stuff

[beadlocked450r]

[quote=“NerdCage, post:3, topic:8346”]
Next came the move. I had Tim from http://www.hydrographicsaquariumservice.com/ move the tank for me. His price was very reasonable, and he did a great job. Got it down the basement steps, no problem.

I’m breathing a little easier, it passed the 24 hour leak test this morning.

I’m currently working on plumbing and the sump. It’s being tricky because the curved stand with the center post doesn’t give me a ton of options for getting a tank in there. I have about 70"x16" to fit something, or 55"x18" depending on how I fit it. Only problem is I can’t get anything that would fill the whole space in there through the doors. I’m currently thinking about a series of 20g tanks from Petco’s $1/gallon sale.

In the sketch attached, water will drain from the tank into the 20g on top. That will be my Water Change compartment. Water will flow out of that, into the tank on the bottom right, where my skimmer will sit. I’ll have valves so I can cause the tank to drain directly into the skimmer, pump out the water in the top tank, fill it with RO/DI, add salt and mix. I’ll then switch the vales to put that tank back into the flow.

From the simmer tank, the water will go to the tank on the left where there will be baffles and an outlet to an external pump. I’m working on a layout where I can have the flow go Tank → Skimmer → Baffles → Return Pump <-> Fuge. [/quote]
Have you tryed to put the sump in through the back of the stand? Once its in its there for life!

[beadlocked450r]

Oh yea :Welcome)to the site

[houndsbayman]

Jason, please check your pm

[NerdCage]

[quote=“icecool2, post:2, topic:8346”]
Welcome to the club :Welcome)[/quote]

[quote=“beadlocked450r, post:8, topic:8346”]
Oh yea :Welcome)to the site[/quote]

Thanks, I’ve been lurking since the frag swap. Karen asking for posts inspired me to document when I’m working on here.

Yeah, I’ve been reading, apparently the gravity flow rates from glass-holes.com are a totally different thing than flow rates at a full siphon. I think I’ll be fine with the 1" bulkhead.

[quote=“houndsbayman, post:5, topic:8346”]
Don’t really understand what you mean by a “dry emergency, wet skim”

Why not just use both 1" bulkheads for drains and both 3/4" for returns. That gives you 600 GPH[/quote]

I want to do a Bean Animal drain system in this tank. I tried a Herbie in my 60g, and it’s ok, but a little finicky and not quite silent. I’m trying to improve with this build and get it really nice and quiet, along with the added fail safe.

The idea is that one pipe takes a full siphon to handle most of the drain. A second takes a partial siphon, just enough to do a little surface skimming. That second pipe keeps the system in balance. Small fluctuations in the output of the return pump are handled by that second “wet skim” pipe. Finally, the “dry emergency” is a pipe up above the normal level of the water. It’s designed as a fail safe. If the full siphon clogs, the wet skim will convert to a full siphon and handle the water. If - by some chance - both the siphon and the wet skim clog, the dry emergency will become a full siphon when water reaches that level and keep your tank from overflowing until you clear the clogs.

I probably would be fine with the 1" drains and 3/4" returns, I just feel better knowing I have a system in place to limit the risk.

[beadlocked450r]

[quote=“houndsbayman, post:9, topic:8346”]
Jason, please check your pm[/quote]
I did, i will send it over tonight after work

[TheEngineer]

I have a herbie on my 50g and used it on my previous 75g too. The bean animal is an improvement on it, but doesn’t work with an unmodified reef-ready tank like the herbie. My herbie is pretty dead silent and I find I only have to tune it maybe once a season.

[houndsbayman]

thanks jason

[beadlocked450r]

You can do the bean you just need to bring the return over the back of the tank and use the 2 1" as full syphon and the 3/4 as backup. And i would then use eductors to increase the pump flow like these Bulk Reef Supply - Search Results for eductor. Thats what i used on my new tank.

[bnelson]

[quote=“NerdCage, post:10, topic:8346”]
Thanks, I’ve been lurking since the frag swap. Karen asking for posts inspired me to document when I’m working on here.[/quote]

Good work Karen!! PoM

& :Welcome)

[bnelson]

[quote=“beadlocked450r, post:14, topic:8346”]
You can do the bean you just need to bring the return over the back of the tank and use the 2 1" as full syphon and the 3/4 as backup. And i would then use eductors to increase the pump flow like these Bulk Reef Supply - Search Results for eductor. Thats what i used on my new tank.[/quote]
Those eductors are awesome, I’m definitely putting those on my next tank.

[NerdCage]

[quote=“beadlocked450r, post:14, topic:8346”]
You can do the bean you just need to bring the return over the back of the tank and use the 2 1" as full syphon and the 3/4 as backup. And i would then use eductors to increase the pump flow like these Bulk Reef Supply - Search Results for eductor. Thats what i used on my new tank.[/quote]

Already have the educators, plan to use them for sure. I made up all the return standpipes last night. Did most things threaded so I can pull them out if I’m not happy with how it is working.

[NerdCage]

I apologize for the hiatus. Work, family, and the holiday left me with very little time for the tank, much less time to post about it. So allow me to catch everyone up.

First thing I did was notch the overflows to allow me to put in the connector. I was pretty nervous about screwing something up, or scratching the glass. But it went really well.

I used a coping saw for as much of it as I could, then scored it with a knife when the saw couldn’t get any closer to the glass (about the last 1/4"). It broke pretty clean, and fortunately both breaks went upwards, so I was able to file down the jagged material.

The two corner overflows will be connected by a 4" x 1/5" PVC Angle. (Cut down from 4"x4").

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[NerdCage]

Next it was time to start building the back wall. I’m using the pond foam and slat method. Eggcrate is cut to fit as the backing of the foam. I chose to zip tie dry rock to the eggcrate, but obviously this could be done 100% foam. The panels are cut into 3 main pieces so they can fit in the tank.

I got luck, and a nice big 2’x4’ box got delivered to work. I took that home and used it to foam and salt in. I used Becket’s Black Pond Foam, about one can for each of the large panels. I put down a layer of foam, then added a bit more at the bottom, and randomly to give different thicknesses to the final panel.

After waiting 10 minutes to let the foam skin over, I started pouring in the salt. I used three 40 lb bags. I started working around the panel to build a boarder. Next I sprinkled salt lightly on everything to start it evenly. I then just started dumping. The weight keeps the foam from expanding too much.

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[reefman66]

I have never done this project, but I’ve seen it done differently. What is the purpose of the salt on top of the foam? What does it do?