Best way to deal with Zoa eating Nudibranch'

So finally after noticing a colony of Zoa’s not opening I found the culprit. I have nudibranch’s in the tank. I do not know how all the sudden the showed up only that they are there. Only things I have added in quite some time would be a clam and a small itty bitty piece of zoa’s (forgot to dip these guys) My polyps were doing great til recently. I am thinking of adding a reef safe wrasse to help with this problem since I would hate to pull the whole rock and kill everything on it including the good stuff. I have not found any eggs on anything either.

Here is a picture of 1 from my tank It is a bright green on the tips.

Here is a picture I found on another reef site that is orange same body just different color

Do you guys think a 6 line would be sufficient? I know some wrasses can’t be mixed but would they be fine with
watchman goby
chromis
clownfish
foxface
anthias
damsel
dottyback
green spotted mandarin

The best way is to dip the rock or the colony.  

  You can try a six line wrasse would be the next thing to try

A sixline would be great imo, i have one and its a great fish…big time carpet surfers though… and i think you can put a hurting on the nudis #'s just by plucking out those you can see.

I had a sixline before when I first got into the hobby of saltwater.
What do you mean by “carpet surfers”?
Don’t the Sixline Wrasses eat copepods also? that is my only concern with having the Mandarin in the tank.

I plucked 2 so far out and 1 or 2 dropped when I was trying to get them.

[quote=“billrob71, post:2, topic:4494”]
The best way is to dip the rock or the colony.

  You can try a six line wrasse would be the next thing to try[/quote]

Wouldn’t dipping the rock become a problem getting the dip fully out of the rock and putting back in the display?

Cool pictures Jeff, try to post your question to (http://forum.marinedepot.com/Forum11-1.aspx), I can post it for you if you like. Manual removal sounds like a good idea.

well, you could just get rid of the zoos and grow acros. or maybe a fresh water dip for all of them. they slime up so much it doesnt hurt them. FW often kills parasites.

Thanks Rosti. I can try and post it up later today hopefully after I get done working at the shop. I am not a member but I think I will sign up on their forums.

As for the FW dip. How long do you leave the rock and zoa’s in the water? I need to get rid of these guys soon. Some spots are showing some painful looking spots on them.

I wish I remembered what site I got the picture of the orange nudi. Also wonder what camera they used. That was a great shot.

Wouldn’t dipping the rock become a problem getting the dip fully out of the rock and putting back in the display?
[/quote]

I use the julian sprun dip and it's a plant bases but I usually do a saltwater dip after it's done. 

NEVER had any problems when I used it.

I have Lugal’s solution (expert), Coral RX, ,Medicoral

Well, there is a lot of opinions and every one is very reasonable. Mine would be is to let it be, I don’t see any reason to compromise your ecosystem by disturbing and possibly damaging some critters for few zooas. Your system is stable now, don’t sacrifice it. In few month get few heads and start over, not a big deal. Don’t over think it. :TWOCENTS

[quote=“Rosti, post:10, topic:4494”]
Well, there is a lot of opinions and every one is very reasonable. Mine would be is to let it be, I don’t see any reason to compromise your ecosystem by disturbing and possibly damaging some critters for few zooas. Your system is stable now, don’t sacrifice it. In few month get few heads and start over, not a big deal. Don’t over think it. :TWOCENTS[/quote]

A freshwater dip should not compromise the tank. Since it would just be like adding top off water for the FW that is still in the rock. I do understand it will stress my zoa’s. I don’t want to see anymore die in my tank everything is doing so well and showing good growth rates. I have about 4/5 frags that have grown onto the rock and another that fell behind a rock I have to move and a few other small rocks with colonies.

zoos are covered in thick slime. they will be fine. try 30 seconds FW dip to start. and see what happens. or suck up a nidi with a turkey baster and drop it in a bowl of FW to see what happens and how long. that should give you an idea. like, Red Planaria flat worms die in about 15-20 seconds.

Let me first say the best way to remove them, in my opinion and most of those who really know what they are doing, is in a QT tank before introducing them to the system.

John had the best advice, but it was quickly moved past and I’m not sure anyone paid attention to it.

[quote=“saltcreep, post:3, topic:4494”]
i think you can put a hurting on the nudis #'s just by plucking out those you can see.[/quote]

True TLF Revive may not hurt the zoanthids, but it also states right on the bottle it is for stony corals. I’ve also seen these nudibranchs live through a revive treatment.(and so have three other employees at a local fish store they should really talk to the forth employee posting here and recommending the treatment :wink: ) MediCoral from Brightwell is, “Safe for all varieties of corals and their allies, including colonial and solitary polyps.” So you could try it, but nothing on the bottle speaks of zoanthids or these nudibranchs directly.

Miguel Tolosa claims in his book(not a book I would typically recommend as there is a lot in it I just think is dead wrong) that Salifert’s flat worm exit, “has disastrous effects on zoanthid eating nudibranchs.” I would recommend doing a dip vs a whole tank treatment if you decide to go that route.

Really manual removal and careful observation would be your best bet. Easiest way to do it would be to get some rigid tubing from your LFS, attach some flexible vinyl tubing to the end about 6-7’ in length, start a siphon out of your tank into a bucket with the rigid end in the tank, and vacuum those suckers out of there. Airline size may work, but will likely jam up on you frequently so I would go a size larger.(most LFS including one in Newark will have all you will need)

My recommendation would be manual removal.

I tried the turkey baster on all the nudi’s I saw and also my grabber I have. I know that I have more in the tank just do not see them.
Since I have removed the ones I could some of my polyps are already opening up.

I would not do a whole tank treatment for same reasons to much risk on everything else. I have been working on the cars this week so I have not been able to get my hands in the tank due to chemicals on me. I might try tonight or tomorrow to pull the rock and do the Fresh rodi dip. I would like to try a wrasse in my tank I love the look and colorations they offer.

The Wrasses eat copepods correct? I know I still have good supply in my tank of copepods due to my fat mandarin.

yes wrasse love pods! but if your mandarin only eats pods i would be careful, wrasse will out compete mandarin for food.

i have seen tanks filled with pests be wiped clean by a wrasse. once they learn its a food source they will not stop eating. i have seen yellow wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) and green wrasse (Halichoeres chloropterus) eat bugs of differnt kinds. A six line could probably work too. other wrasse may work as well, but those are your best bet IMO/IME.

Six Lines are great but also are pod hogs, I’m sure I still have pods in my rocks but I never see then on the surface anymore as he is always hunting from lights on till lights off.

I just picked up a six line. Looks good and healthy. It is not to big so hopefully pod production will keep up. I also have a lot of live rock to help with pods. Next time I go to TPP I am getting another bottle of live Phyto.

My chromis just started chasing the six line… I love the coloration of this six line. Very nice change of coloration for fish in the tank.

I saw another nudi today and tried 2 times to get it out and lost it in the current. next time I will lower the mp20 flow before I go in for the catch.

Frequent manual removal is still your best bet. Pretty much there is always instance proof as well like you mentioned the polyps started opening up soon after taking a few off. Let us know how it works out.

[quote=“JustSumGuy, post:17, topic:4494”]
Next time I go to TPP I am getting another bottle of live Phyto.[/quote]

There are local stores that sell that as well. For now that is. They’re going out of business fast. Could possible even be cheaper as I think some of the phyto has pricing set by manufacturer and you don’t pay sales tax in DE, so it would cost you less. Just my two cents.

[quote=“Gordonious, post:18, topic:4494”]
Frequent manual removal is still your best bet. Pretty much there is always instance proof as well like you mentioned the polyps started opening up soon after taking a few off. Let us know how it works out.

[quote=“JustSumGuy, post:17, topic:4494”]
Next time I go to TPP I am getting another bottle of live Phyto.[/quote]

There are local stores that sell that as well. For now that is. They’re going out of business fast. Could possible even be cheaper as I think some of the phyto has pricing set by manufacturer and you don’t pay sales tax in DE, so it would cost you less. Just my two cents. [/quote]

Pretty much all of the polyps have opened up again. The sixline is finally adjusting and the other fish are slowly starting to leave it alone… That six line looks real good to thanks to DPA for that awesome fish :slight_smile:
What store has that locally? I do not remember ever seeing it at DPA or at Bill’s

If you ever down in Dover, Fish Bowl always get them in.