http://easymeters.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=214_217&products_id=443
$789 is cheap to you? Heck for a fraction of that ill drive over and do water tests for you ;D
i would actually pay someone if this thing doesnt give me good results. i can never desifer the color chart on the calcium and mag tests. my blue might be different from the people who designed it. i always get some crazy reading on the calcium test
[quote=“tat2tillidie, post:3, topic:562”]
i can never desifer the color chart on the calcium and mag tests. my blue might be different from the people who designed it. i always get some crazy reading on the calcium test[/quote]
you’re not using a titration type (drop drop drop till the color changes) of test? if not, why not? if $789 seems cheap, you shouldn’t be skimping on test kits …
get a good titration type of test, like salifert. then all you have to look @ is a color change - not a color chart.
btw … what the heck does this thing test? the web page doesn’t even tell you.
And, sorry Bellamy, but I have got to under bid you … i’ll test your water for $725 … a savings of $64 …
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[quote=“ronert, post:5, topic:562”]
btw … what the heck does this thing test? the web page doesn’t even tell you.
And, sorry Bellamy, but I have got to under bid you … i’ll test your water for $725 … a savings of $64 …
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you have to click on specifications to see what it test but here i will post what it test. i think that some will work but most wont. i think its for freshwater. but here is what it tests for
Multi Parameter Specifications
Parameter Range
Aluminum 0.00 to 1.00 mg/L Aluminon
Ammonia LR 0.00 to 3.00 mg/L Nessler
Ammonia MR 0.00 to 9.99 mg/L Nessler
Bromine 0.00 to 8.00 mg/L DPD
Chlorine dioxide 0.00 to 2.00 mg/L Chlorophenol red
Chlorine, free 0.00 to 2.50 mg/L DPD
Chlorine, total 0.00 to 3.50 mg/L DPD
Chromium VI HR 0 to 1000 µg/L Diphenylcarbohydrazine
Chromium VI LR 0 to 300 µg/L Diphenylcarbohydrazine
Color 0 to 500 PCU Platinum Cobalt N/A
Copper HR 0.00 to 5.00 mg/L Bicinchoninate
Copper LR 0 to 1000 µg/L Bicinchoninate
Cyanide 0.000 to 0.200 mg/L Pyridine-Pyrazalone
Cyanuric acid 0 to 80 mg/L Turbidimetric
Fluoride 0.00 to 2.00 mg/L SPADNS
Hardness (Calcium) 0.00 to 2.70 mg/L Calmagite
Hardness (Magnesium) 0.00 to 2.00 mg/L EDTA
Hydrazine 0 to 400 µg/L p-Dimethylaminobenzaldehyde
Iodine 0.0 to 12.5 mg/L DPD
Iron HR 0.00 to 5.00 mg/L Phenantroline
Iron LR 0 to 400 µg/L TPTZ
Manganese HR 0.0 to 20.0 mg/L Periodate oxidation
Manganese LR 0 to 300 µg/L PAN HI 93748-01
Molybdenum 0.0 to 40.0 mg/L Mercaptoacetic acid
Nickel HR 0.00 to 7.00 g/L Photometric
Nitrate 0.0 to 30.0 mg/L Cadmium reduction
Nitrite HR 0 to 150 mg/L Ferrous sulfate
Nitrite LR 0.00 to 0.35 mg/L Diazotation
Oxygen, dissolved 0.0 to 10.0 mg/L Winkler
pH 6.5 to 8.5 pH Phenol red
Phosphate HR 0.0 to 30.0 mg/L Amino acid
Phosphate LR 0.00 to 2.50 mg/L Ascorbic acid
Phosphorus 0.0 to 15.0 mg/L Amino acid
Silica 0.00 to 2.00 mg/L Dimolybdate
Silver 0.000 to 1.000 mg/L PAN
Zinc 0.00 to 3.00 mg/L Zincon
well, all those tiny numbers are impressive, but you can rub most of them out with a POLY PAD for about $6 bucks, and not have to worry about all that testing. What’s left to do is add a little lime water top off each day and occasionaly some Randy part 3 magnesium mix… then just test PH to insure you are not overdosing, and alk and calc. level. I Use simple, cheap API test kits for that.
I was happily using the randy 2 part mix for a couple years, but recently something went wrong. couldn’t keep alk and calc and ph up no matter how much i added each day. so i drifted back to adding a little lime water top off each day with Mrs. Wages Pickling lime, from walmart, and a couple times a week a boost from baked baking soda,(sodium carbonate) and some extra calcium chloride. the tanks seem to have stabilized with less additives, and higher PH and smaller daily swings.
Now I’m happy. I still Don’t know why, but it’s workin.
They say the first sign of insanity, is doing the same thing over and over again expecting a different result.
So If that doesn’t work, try something different.
Ok so it is around that time where I’m supposed to replace my MH bulb with a new one. I bought the fixture from someone else on ebay who had replaced it once, i assumed with no problem. However the fixture is stuck together and I can’t get it apart. I have a Viper 150W. The two halves seem to have fused together some how. I think maybe someone tried to paint over it and forgot to separate the pieces? I don’t know but to no avail, I can’t get it open to change the bulb.
I was wandering if anyone wanted to take a crack at opening it. Or my other option is to break the glass that is covering the bulb, open the fixture, replace the bulb and replace the glass. Only problem is I can’t replace the glass since I don’t have a shop with necessary tools to cut glass. Unless the website has replacement glass. So if anyone can help it would be really appreciated!
if its paint just use a razor knife at seams to cut paint i am in dover so if you are close i could help but you are up north right? could also lightly and i mean lightly tap with hammer at seams after screws are removed to loosen.
Would you not just remove these 4 screws?
Yes that one, and yes i have removed the screws. I have tried a knife on the seams to no avail and i’ve put the knife in the seams and hit it with a hammer, no avail. I’m going to try my x-acto knife next and see if I can get anything to work. And yes I am in Newark, DE.
ok then use a striaght blade screw driver and place in seam. with a clockwise and counterclockwise twisting motion in few spots should pop it open. must have salt creep in seams and fussed parts together. even a thick butter knive sideways will work. if this fails get a BFH. bigger f$%@* lOl hammer.
Probably a water tight seal.
Hidden Reef sells Vipers. You might be able to cal them and see if they can talk you through the process.
I’ll take a look when I get home. I have the (pathetic) user manual somewhere.
Still no luck. I’ve tried stripping the paint around the seams, no luck. Butter knife can’t do much and neither does a screw driver on the seams. There isn’t that much leeway. The seams are pretty flush with one another. I’m going to let the tank sit without light for a day and see if maybe the light just needs to cool down and I e-mailed JBJ to see if there was anything they could think of of if they offer to sell replacement glass pieces. I’m not sure. We shall see. Any other ideas? lol
Are there any sticker on the plastic? Sometimes there is a screw hidden under the sticker
Nope no stickers. And even though i’ve let it stay off for 2 days now, it isn’t helping any. I noticed the bulb is starting to “expand” at one end and looks like it will explode or break any day. So I’m getting more and more depserate. I don’t really know what to do. I’ve tried to move the pieces and make them get loose but nothing is happening. It just feels like it was glued or something. No word from JBJ on help with it.
Hammer? Just kidding. Where are you located?
never heard of a bulb expanding and exploding. i will be at dpa tomorrow afternoon around 1 pmish if ya want we can try to open it there. i will bring the 16 pound sledge hammer incase all else fails.
Becca if you want to bring it by I’m sure we can get it open. If not leave it at DPA for a day. One of us will get it open when we stop by.