shrimp are very sensitive to nitrates. you’ll prob want to wait…
[quote=“saltcreep, post:21, topic:4684”]
shrimp are very sensitive to nitrates. you’ll prob want to wait… [/quote]
I have a cleaner shrimp, he’s fine. I am speaking of the cleaner wrasse. Thanks though
[quote=“saltcreep, post:21, topic:4684”]
shrimp are very sensitive to nitrates. you’ll prob want to wait… [/quote]
He was talking about a cleaner wrasse, (not shrimp) much much harder to keep alive
I think you would be best to stop all additions till you know your tank better, you might want to keep a written log.
You need to learn stuff like, what are my tanks normal parameters
What are they right after a 20% water change, +1 day +2 days +days
what are they after a 10% water change, +1 day +2 days +days
what are the differences between 8, 10, 12 hours of light
These should be taken without dosing anything
That will give you a good baseline to know how fast your NO3 and PO4 go up and how fast your Ca. Mg and Alk go down. I know this sounds like a lot of work and time but with this info you can really start tuning your tank in.
OK, no more additions. I’m still planning on doing a water change on Friday. Something like 10 gallons (65g tank w 20g sump/fuge) to start getting some cleaner water through those guys’ gills.
Or should I just do it now and then let the livestock rest for a few more days before another interruption?
Also side note: Where can I find a block of filter foam to set down in my sump? I have 3 aquaclear filter inserts shoved down there to stop microbubbles. They seem to not be working as well as they were initially, so I’m looking for a better fit. I have an eshopps sump.
I appreciate all the input, and will continue to observe and learn.
-Josh
Water parameters are perfectly fine yes po4 is not great for Sps but you have no Sps. I would bring it down( in time). There is no reason to panic with po4 at .38 on the Hanna checker. It is a new tank and will take time to adjust. A good thing is rinse your frozen food in water when it thaws rinse and drain water add some garlic, it’s supposed to help in fighting parasites and aid in fish health. The nori soaked in garlic is good too. Don’t remove the fish or corals too much stress. Let it be it will get worse or better, it will get worse if you remove fish and start pulling rocks, once your fish are 100% established it will get better keep all as stable as possible. Feed them but not too much maybe one cube of mysis shrimp w garlic and one nori piece a day. Water change normally. Your nitrate above 10 will effect some corals and 20 will effect inverts anda bit higher fish, from what I’ve read. But your readings are fine for the fish. I would raise sg to 1.026 feed good food low in po4 and rinse it and it’ll be fine. My hippo is nuts. It had ich and went away after 2 months now the powder brown got bead up and stressed now it has ich. It’ll keep happening ich will always be there. Just keep the fish happy and unstressed and they’ll fight it.
block of filter foam is a hugh nitrate producer as goes for bio-balls that is why as reefkeeper do with out them. Other route to go is rock rubbles, it help somewhat with bubbles.
I would do a water change as soon as you can making sure the saltwater mix has been mixed and stablized for around 12 to 24 hours. you then can take a reading of a 10% water change and check every day to see if NO3 or PO4 are climbing. You could do a 10% water change every few days if needed, I do a 20% water change every 7 days.
Where are your micro bubbles comming from your drain or your shimmer output ?
if from your drain you could use a sump sock, but make sure you clean then every 3 or 4 days
Not sure on how I’m gonna make my ASM mini-g stop w microbubbles, I already have about five pounds of rubble piled around that thing.
As for the little chromis that is harboring more Ich, would it be beneficial to remove him and by doing so reducing the number of reproducing parasites?
BTW, Thanks again Dunk. Let me know when you’re around town.
-Josh
Also, is it common for Ich to appear on the eyes of the animal? The hippo has a white dot on each eye, and I’m wondering if that is Ich itself or if it just BUSTED up its face?
[quote=“StoneReefer_210, post:22, topic:4684”]
[quote=“saltcreep, post:21, topic:4684”]
shrimp are very sensitive to nitrates. you’ll prob want to wait… [/quote]
I have a cleaner shrimp, he’s fine. I am speaking of the cleaner wrasse. Thanks though[/quote]
sorry verdict_in… i’ve always wanted one, they never seem to live long from what i’ve heard.
I know Rosti had one, at a time, but i didn’t see it in his last video. If it didn’t live in that tank “fish paradise” then forget about it
btw, do you have, or can you take a pic of the sump setup? that would help us all, help you with the bubbles
We should change thread name to: Reefer Madness. I have a feeling that’s cliche as hell, but fitting.
Here are a couple shots of the sump. I threw a couple stones on the air outlets, not to block them off but to diffuse the bubbles. I don’t see a difference in the tank’s appearance though. I think I need more rubble…
stack that rubble up high, jason aka beadlocked has a cleaner wrasse it is old has had it a long time it is awesome, in 7 years of keeping this tank i tried a cleaner like four years ago well it died. now i have tangs and after seeing jasons wrasse i wanted on so tried one a month or two ago well it died. None of these looked good at all they didn’t eat they just disappeared, I asked dpa if they had one and they ordered one in, it took a while to come in they told me they have two suppliers one that the wrasse only eat off fish and then die and one that eats reg. food well I got one and its a great addition it shoots around chases the magfloat and eats chunks that fall off. It cleans the fish too so hope this ones a survivor i think it is it has great personality. it eats any food in the tank ahen i walk up to the tank it swims back and forth in front of me lol It is only a few days old, but the longest i kept one was two days
[quote=“dunk, post:31, topic:4684”]
stack that rubble up high, jason aka beadlocked has a cleaner wrasse it is old has had it a long time it is awesome, in 7 years of keeping this tank i tried a cleaner like four years ago well it died. now i have tangs and after seeing jasons wrasse i wanted on so tried one a month or two ago well it died. None of these looked good at all they didn’t eat they just disappeared, I asked dpa if they had one and they ordered one in, it took a while to come in they told me they have two suppliers one that the wrasse only eat off fish and then die and one that eats reg. food well I got one and its a great addition it shoots around chases the magfloat and eats chunks that fall off. It cleans the fish too so hope this ones a survivor i think it is it has great personality. it eats any food in the tank ahen i walk up to the tank it swims back and forth in front of me lol It is only a few days old, but the longest i kept one was two days[/quote]
:
: eating food!
[quote=“StoneReefer_210, post:30, topic:4684”]
We should change thread name to: Reefer Madness. I have a feeling that’s cliche as hell, but fitting.
Here are a couple shots of the sump. I threw a couple stones on the air outlets, not to block them off but to diffuse the bubbles. I don’t see a difference in the tank’s appearance though. I think I need more rubble…
[/quote]
Where is the water entering the sump? the white pvc next to the return pump?
ok, now i see a sock next to the skimmer… what is the white pvc?
just picked up on the pic, make sure there is no metal in the plumbing… also your nitrates being 5-10 are ok i would shoot for 5 or less and .10 po4 or less, now you have soft corals and fish, which will tolerate higher levels(and may do better with your levels). If you can find your tank balance ex. amount of food/rinsing to maintain these levels without all the media to remove it then you are good, remember the tanks new and will adjust but some po4 and nitrate are needed even with sps if not you will have to add coral food and coral food contains both. I had high po4 very high I got into sps and added gfo reactors. it brought po4 down pretty quick and i lost a xenia due to it i think corals get used to the levels and fast changes have negative effects.
White PVC is the return line. Water comes in on the left throuogh the filter sock, then enters the skimmer area which contains that few lbs of rock, goes over and down that spill way and back to the pump. The filter sock contains a nitrogen “sponge”. Which actually seemed to work early on. If it keeps trates low, I’m good with that.
Where’s the garden hose going to?
BTW, I bought this tank on consignment. It came with everything, I removed a sketchy hose end by cutting down from it and added the correct fitting. There was no metal at anypoint when I began running the tank.
Is this setup inferior?
The section of garden hose goes from the top of the pump up and then down to the return PVC in a little loop.
inferior… not at all, i’m just trying to figure out the bubbles… so is it just the skimmer? if you turn off just the skimmer, do the bubbles stop entering the display?
Wow, it’s the same with the skimmer on or off as long as those filter blocks are in there. There is still microbubbles maybe sand? floating around, but it’s usually crystal clear. That is until I cleaned those filter blocks and now here I am.
I just removed one filter block and the whole tank filled with microbubbles.
[quote=“StoneReefer_210, post:39, topic:4684”]
Wow, it’s the same with the skimmer on or off as long as those filter blocks are in there. There is still microbubbles maybe sand? floating around, but it’s usually crystal clear. That is until I cleaned those filter blocks and now here I am.
I just removed one filter block and the whole tank filled with microbubbles.[/quote]
If you can “isolate” where the bubbles are coming from, then some ideas for easy fixes will start flying.
When i used to use those foam blocks, i remember it would take a bit for all the air to work out after a cleaning.
it looks from your picture, that the only two bubble making things could be the intake water (but thats in a sock) or the skimmer…
so you said with the skimmer off, it still does it? a common thing is air getting drawn into a water return line, and blown out into the tank, it doesnt take much, sometimes the little drilled “anti back sipon” holes that are drilled i return lines are a good place to start. Or any joints… they dont always leak water out, sometimes they’ll just draw air in.
btw, what size is the return pump? and what diameter is the pvc return? looks pretty big, might just be the angle?