Triton method recommends most salts in the 8dkh range.
I think the 2 most popular right now are still red sea blue bucket and tropic Marin.
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Triton method recommends most salts in the 8dkh range.
I think the 2 most popular right now are still red sea blue bucket and tropic Marin.
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So I noticed I got the black bucket (coral pro). It definitely says it has an 11.7 dkh. But it has a great magnesium and calcium level. So I guess I’ll give it a try
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Here is a chart for comparisons
Interesting. Maybe I’ll have to test the next batch of water I mix up. The Kent label says Ca is 550-575 and Mg 1350-1450 when mixed to 1.024-1.026.
Also, don’t remember if I posted on here, but I’m pretty sure my YLNB has pretty much lost interest in the clam thankfully. Clam has opened up close to normal again, and I moved the clam up a bit onto the rock so it gets more light.
YLNB? (Brain fart)
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Yellow longnose butterfly
Gotcha. Lol
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Anyone want to solve my STN issue? Alk has been around 8 now that I’ve noticed the issue. Calcium is 475. SG is 1.025. Temp is 78… I got a frag from sanjays tank at the swap in Lancaster which has been STN since it was attacked by a whelk. I moved the abro higher for more light and flow last night. Should I just bite the bullet and frag it? Wouldn’t have much of a piece left after that process. I’ve tried covering the area with superglue (r2r advice).
Stn sucks. Anything could be a factor. Some sps is harder to keep then others and change does not do them well. If it’s so far gone that only a nub is left then I would try and frag it below the affected tissue. Flow not being the same alone can do a lot. Frag swaps alone are stressers for them. Sometimes it’s ok to start them lower. Losing color from lack of par vs bleaching from to much is better imo
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It came from Sanjays tank which was MH lit. I’m sure it was getting plenty of lighting. I’ve had the frag for several weeks now and it was doing fine until the whelk took a chomp out of it. Since then it’s been STN. I’ve fragged it once, but can try fragging it again I guess. Sucks to go from a 3" frag to a little 1" nub though lol. It’s got good PE on the top half, but the bottom is where the STN is occurring and it’s slowly growing.
If it is spreading frag it, the CA glue is just to cover an exposed area to make it less open to infections, if there is an infection under or around it, then you need to get rid of that and in most cases it means fragging it to a clean section.
The solution to this particular STN problem is a very simple one…
Get rid of the Welk!!! :FLUSH)
Oh I caught the whelk don’t worry. They seem to come in spurts. Pulled like 5-10 last week, and haven’t seen one since. It had been weeks before then since I had seen one. I guess I’ll try to frag it tonight above the affected area and put it in a different spot :SURRENDER
Here’s the frag in question. No STN on any other corals.
Ok. I went ahead and did it, it’s fragged. I cut probably 1-2 mm above the necrotic tissue.
In the last 24 hours I would say my little frag has almost lost half the tissue on it
Not surprising, it"s hard to stop STN once it starts.
I think fragging it drove it over the edge.RIP abro ☹ï¸
IME my best luck in saving STN is to cut about a 1/4 inch or more above any signs of necrosis and then iodine dip it and glue to clean frag plug.
I am of the camp that STN and RTN are from an infection and the iodine and glue help clean and seal it. But just like other kinds of infections if it spreads to the bone or skeleton in corals case it often becomes deadly.