Yea, that does happens all the time. There’s lots of paid members on our club site that still shows as “Registered Member” rather than “Premium Member”.
Who do they need to contact once they pay for the membership and that it need to show “Premium Member” under their board name?
A, Agreed. In January I paid by accident I believe up through nov of 2013 and am still waiting for the premium member status. I guess I figured they at least have it on record somewhere.
I’m going to work on keeping everything straight this year… I’ll start coordinating w/ marty better and keep all the registered/ premium stuff straight…
Sorry, hopefully no one got p-o’d… I think we’re all just a little over protective of the par meter now… it took us MONTHS to get it back a year or so ago…
[quote=“reefman66, post:41, topic:4770”]
Yea, that does happens all the time. There’s lots of paid members on our club site that still shows as “Registered Member” rather than “Premium Member”.
Who do they need to contact once they pay for the membership and that it need to show “Premium Member” under their board name?[/quote]
Hopefully i’ll keep it all updated, but just pm me if somethings not right, and i’ll fix it up :
:
thanks guys
Thanks for taking care of us John.
Nope no one p-o’d, just wanted to make sure I was not breaking any rules or causing waves. :BEER
Will, do you have any par readings to share? or did you already post them somewhere?
And …has anyone with leds checked readings after any length of time? year or so, just to see what drop-off if any?
I swapped out some LEDs so I figuried I would give an update.
I am now running all Bridgelux LEDs replaced all my Crees
I have
20 Royal Blue with 60º optics
16 10K White with 60º optics
10 420 UV with 90º optics
02 660 Red with 120º optics
I don’t have nice pictures of my tanks so just readings
first of all the color is just right for me, 18K going to 14K for noon effect for 3 hours
Driving them @ 700mA except for the whites that driver is bad and only putting out 400mA for now so white are really under powered right now.
run UV and Red @ 100%
Run White and Blue at 60%
Lights are 10" above water line
The readings are all below the water line
1" 650
6" 450
10" 350
14" 300
17" 250
Good readings Hudz. sounds like you pulled an all nighter soldering chips.
These are the ones that you build a couple of month ago Frank? do you see any differences between the cree and the bridgelux? what drivers are you running them and how many per LEDs? BTW the reading looks great.
Read over the whole thing again and realize I have too much light probably why my colors suck. Those are some good strong numbers hudz. I hear when running LEDs Max should be 40% I’m trying this now. If its not a problem I’d like to use the meter again when its available. I think I need to tone the frag tank lights down a bit :
:
A, I built the original one back in April of last year, I am running Mean Well ELN-60-48D drivers one for the UV/Red, two for the blues and one for the whites.
The only problem I have with to much light is for my zoas that are out in the open, they still have great color and grow well, but stay small and grow very close together.
I am very convinced that the issues with Leds is covering the spectrum in the right amounts.
I am going to take off 4 UV and replace them with more 10K whites and then replace 6 of the RBs with Blues in the 465 range. I am trying to emulate a mix of Orphek fixtures, just noticed on their new high end model they are using 24 – 460nm blue and only 8 – 450nm blue
So I may be changing out more of my RBs for Blues in the 465 range
I’m also going to be changing to Meanwell LDD drivers just to tidy things up and run all 4 channels on my Apex UV/Red, White, RB and B all on their own channel.
OK after some more reading this will be the next change.
20 10K white
12 465nm blue
8 450nm royal blue
2 660nm red
6 420UV
Good stuff. I may follow suit if you have success.
Any idea who has this?
[quote=“beadlocked450r, post:54, topic:4770”]
Any idea who has this?[/quote]
I have it but the battery leaked and ate the inside. Call the manufacturer and they said would cost just as much to repair it as to replace it.
Revival of thread with new seneye par meter (not very easy to use yet). There is 3 tanks tested. I’ll try to make it clear as possible without a picture since I don’t have that talent.
Tank #1: 8gallon nano LED lighting rated @ 23w full power, blue & whites only
780 1" below surface
490 8" down from surface
Unable to test on sand (12" deep tank)
Tank #2 30gal long 4x39w t5 ho, 1-10,000K 1-420nm 1-460nm 1-“pink” (name worn off bulb) NOTE: pink and white bulbs are VERY old. over 1.5 years
375 1" below surface
240 6" down
110 12" down
Tank#3 55gal 2x96w PC (1-75/25 1-420nm) 2x 150w phoenix 14,000k fixture 6" over tank
360 1" below surface
95 1" below surface at end of tank
180 6" down-middle (note blocking light with arm)
*lower level readings were greatly affected here on with light obstruction
68 19" down on sand
Tank#3 2X NEW chineese 165w (120w actual) LED w/90? deg. (unconfirmed) optics full spectrum-3500K, 7500k, 12,000k, 420nm uv, 450nm royal blue, 460nm blue, 660nm red, 520nm green
Fixture 14" over tank
1110 1" below surface (max output)
710 1" below surface (40% white 60%blue)
35 1" down end of tank (40/60)
60 1" down center of tank (40/60)
470 19" down sand (max output under fixture)
The intensity of the LED fixture is without question superior, but, the spread of the light leaves much to be desired. Lots of shading with the fixtures, even when slightly angled twards each other. I am considering removing or replacing some or all of the optics. Also considering T5 actinic supplimentation.
so what was the original meter that was being used to measure PAR. The one with the battery leakage? It seems that one was being used easily by everyone and the Senseye is a little more complicated?
This new par meter isn’t really made for what we are trying to use it for. It’s made to be used in 1 tank not 50.that is why I didn’t even open the package. It looks like a nice product but not for this application. :TWOCENTS
thanks, I get that one is designed to stay put in one tank, what was the initial product that was being used in multiple tanks?