Trying to come up with a full list of things I would want to programmatically control on my tank. So far I’ve got.
1 Actinic lights
1 Day Lights
1 PH A
1 PH B
1 Doser?
1 ATO?
1 Fan(s)?
Possibly another PH? Anything else I could want to control now or in the future?
Building a kit to fully automate my tank.
Water level sensors. You could put one on the floor to shut off all pumps, or one on the sump so that if it gets to full the RO unit kicks off (to shut off an ATO as a backup).
A thermometer. Kicks on fans if the tank get to hot, and if it gets even hotter it would turn off the lights.
Wavemaker/powerheads?
I put two powerheads in there (PH A, PH B) and was planning on using them as a ‘wave maker’, think I’d need another? This would be for the 75, planning on using MJ400s (which are a bit much for the 55 right now).
Water level sensors, I’ll add that to the input list. I could run the pump through a relay I could kill if water is detected on the floor. Need to spec out a cheap ‘wet’ sensor, since a float won’t do much help on the floor.
Temp is on the input list, so I can kick on fan(s) or kill lights because of heat.
Oh, I thought you mean “pH” not Power Head. I would also inclue pH so that you can monitor tank pH as well as possibly a reactor effluent pH in addition. With a pH montor you could cotroll the use of either a calcium reacor or a peristalsic pump for kalk.
The 2 power heads should be fine (I’m assuming they have the sure flow kit). I’m not sure how sureflow kits work on a wavemaker setup though… they are kinda noisy starting up.
Skimmer and return pump. You’ll want to include a “feed” feature that temporarily shuts down everything that moves water for 10 minutes. This will keep your phyto from getting sucked up by the skimmer and your flake and freeze dried food from going to the sump.
[quote=“Cdangel0, post:5, topic:1136”]
You’ll want to include a “feed” feature that temporarily shuts down everything that moves water for 10 minutes.[/quote]
Thats a good one. What other features does your RK2 have 
Here is somewhere to look for ideas. Their forums have a lot of people asking for features to be included.
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/m_product_info.php?part_number=30-0011-001
Now just how are you going to say this:
[quote=“icy1155, post:6, topic:1136”]
Thats a good one. What other features does your RK2 have :)[/quote]
And then post this???
[quote=“icy1155, post:7, topic:1136”]
Here is somewhere to look for ideas. Their forums have a lot of people asking for features to be included.
http://www.digitalaquatics.com/m_product_info.php?part_number=30-0011-001[/quote]
The RK2 will also turn the lights off if the temp gets above a set temperature.
It will also allow pumps to be controlled via multi-times, oscillating timer, and allows for 3 seperate wave maker cycles.
If possible I would also set it up to send a text message if any of your monitored parameters gets too far out of whack (my RK2 doesn’t do that)
Great find on the forum there Icy, that should get me started with plenty of ideas…
Planning on the ‘feed’ or pause feature to temporarily cut flow.
Planning on opening a solenoid that will drip kalk for low pH. I wasn’t planning on using a reactor, but I suppose I should leave the option open.
I realized I could just look it up. 
[quote=“Cdangel0, post:8, topic:1136”]
If possible I would also set it up to send a text message if any of your monitored parameters gets too far out of whack (my RK2 doesn’t do that)[/quote]
Def. It’s going to be run on a PC so I’ll also be able to remote in and check status/change things as well or reply with an action via e-mail. Via my iphone non the less 
i want to do this on my next tank. my olny worry is that if the unit fails ur (insert word). didnt read the whole thread but how much $$$ was the unit?
Building it myself. $$ depends on features. Planning on being sub $300 for a fully featured (more features than the RKE) unit. Sub $100 I could do something like an RK2 hardware wise with more software features.
it would be cool to have your lights lower closer to the tank during the early light cycle, and then away and slowly off in the evening…then u can tune the bulbs to power on slowly till they peak for a little, and then slowly off…i was looking at a light that works like that and mechanical hoods/lights on youtube, its pretty neat.
According to most light and coral experts it would really only be needed for you viewing pleasure not the coral.
[quote=“IanH, post:13, topic:1136”]
Building it myself. $$ depends on features. Planning on being sub $300 for a fully featured (more features than the RKE) unit. Sub $100 I could do something like an RK2 hardware wise with more software features.[/quote]
Now see if you can do this and put in the right features you could probably sell them.
It would require a spare pc, an internet connection for some features and I’d have to charge my time to set it up and charge for my time writing the software. For someone else it would end up being around the same price of an RK2, but you could have potentionally more functionallity. BUT I’ll focus on making the first one first!
As an update I’m making this out of an Arduino, prototyping board. It WON’T require a PC to function, but would to interface w/ one and send SMS’s ect. I’ll still come in under the price of an RK2 (or w/e) w/ more functionality and programability by me :).
If I end up going all out it could be about the price if not a bit more than that of an RK2, but would have a touch screen LCD and wouldn’t need a PC to send SMS (email, ect).
Back to searching ebay for some cheap solid state relays!
If you are running M/H lights. 2 or more, you can set them up to come on one at a time. Like have one come on at 10 am and the next to come on at 10:15 am and so on, to simulate sunrise. And then set them to do the reverse to simulate sunset. And then have your moon lights set up to come on after sunset.
I’ve got T5s and do pretty much the same effect, actinics on for early morning and late evening, 10k/12k for daytime lights.
I should have 8 or 9 controllable 110VAC outlets w/ 2 or 3 of them able to push more than 1A (up to 40A if you want!) (lower current solid state relays are cheaper).