A sincere thank you to all members that consisently contribute to the boards!

Guess I’m just impatient, inexperienced, and my tank is immature. We’ll see how the new tang likes the tank when I get 'em.

At least you have the right attitude :stuck_out_tongue:

i love seeing pictures of my tank and saying wow how you have grown. my first thought was that corals grew fast and large in matter of weeks…boy you learn alot. when i first started in S W i knew nothing. and 2 1/2 yrs later i learned i have alot to learn lOl

I really hope you dont plan to strikethrough every single fish you lose in your signature. Its a little morbid!

and 2 1/2 yrs later i learned i have alot to learn

yep. even after four years i feel like ive only scratched the surface.

“This is one of the things that always killed me (no pun intended) about LFS and their rule about bringing in a water sample after a fish has died to get store credit - there is inevitably going to be some ammonia detectable in the water.”

True there may be a detectable amount of ammonia, but if there salinity is 1.018 and Nitrates are 200 and they are trying to return an SPS coral…… Often times when I ask people what temperature or salinity they keep their tanks at they say, “they’re fine” and I ask them what is “fine” and they have no idea it’s either the green spot on the glass thermometer or the area marked on that little plastic thing with the white piece that moves up and down…

“Bioballs” haven’t read the rest of the thread, and I’d be surprised if someone else didn’t already comment, but I would remove them.

I too am learning new things all the time. We all are.

[quote=“logans_daddy, post:44, topic:962”]
I really hope you dont plan to strikethrough every single fish you lose in your signature. Its a little morbid![/quote]
Just so I remember, I was thinking about taking off the little yellow guy. Hopefully, I won’t be having too many to strike off!

I dont know for sure it looked like it was barely sucking any air into the skimmer so like a fool i stuck my hand over the water intake of the pump felt a twitch and all the water came rushing out the intake that was in the skimmer…i havent taken it apart at all to look either…

Sounds like it’s time to get you’re hands dirty and play around with it a little while. If you’re ready to give up on the old skimmer/pump and need help taking out the trash I could help you out there. :wink:

I racked up a long list of deads fast when I started off. Newark Tropicals sold me some, “cured live rock” that spiked my tank and killed just about everything.(I had a horrible cold at the time and could not smell the foul rock)

Not sure if you ever answered wether you were using the small or big prop, but if you were using the large one, i could believe that it might snag a sleeping a fish. It is INSANE how much difference there is between the two props. I add my third and final one last night and decided to try the large prop out, the thing was knocking down rocks and the intake was considerably stronger than the 1600. I wouldnt trust leaving it in my tank with smaller fish.

Nah its the small prop (i THINK). I don’t know I’m half/half now. I put my hand against it and it doesn’t feel as strong as I thought/used to so I dunno, then again a flat fish wrapping around it would seal/pull harder. It def does pull a vortex of water every now and then. Dunno, maybe he was sick/retarded from the get-go.

[quote=“IanH, post:52, topic:962”]
Nah its the small prop (i THINK). It def does pull a vortex of water every now and then. [/quote]

Did you figure out what I meant by the sold black part? The manufacturer words it better then I did. “Make sure the part of the shroud that has no intake slots is pointed toward the surface of the water.”

If you have it pretty low in the tank because it pulls in air then more then likely you don’t have the right part up. Then again if your fish really did have trouble before bringing it higher may allow it to pull even more water through because it isn’t fighting the density of water as much.

I’ll look again but I didn’t see a spot on the shroud that has no intake slots. I’ll check it out because I got a mj400 at TFP and I’m going to see to put the sureflow on that see if we can find out if it really makes 1300 gph, if so thats by FAR the best bang for the buck PH.

The density of water won’t change, water does not compress.

Water density can change and will compress, just probably not in our tanks!

Jon just used the wrong term, but he is still right. The deeper you move your powerhead, the less disturbance you will have on the surface. But you know that :stuck_out_tongue:

Duh, but its not going to flow more and the density isn’t going to change because of depth and when does it compress?

1 liter of water from the bottom of the ocean is a liter of water at atmospheric conditions. 1 liter of air at 3000 feet is is 10.8 ml of air at the surface.

Read me: http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/eng99/eng99234.htm

33 feet of water is 14.69 psi. If you can compress water your doing something right.

Water absolutely can be compressed, just like every liquid. However, it requires a LOT of pressure and the result is very little compression. I believe that the difference in densiites in ocean water has little to do with pressure and a lot to do with salinty and temperature. However, pressure is a very small factor.

I just read your own link and it says that water is compressible? I dont get. You said water cant be compressed, i said it can, you said im wrong and post a link that says it can? lOl

Anyways, not to interested in a debate on the properties of water. Back to what jon said. On your shroud there should be a spot about an inch wide that has no intake slots. This is what you want pointed upwards to help eliminate your vortex problem.

For the purposes we are talking about water isn’t compressible. Everything is compressible, but water is generally considered uncompressible because of the extreme pressure required, you are NOT going to get anywhere close to that in your fish tank or even deep in the ocean. The density would change based on sality and temperature correct. Jon stated the density would be different being higher in the water column, that is not correct.

Found the spot, it was face down against a rock, go figure.

Jon, I replaced the MJ1000 with a 400 and there is almost no difference in flow that I can tell by my eyes (both with the sure-flow kit). So based on our conversation the other night looks to me like the MJ400 w/ SureFlow is your best bang for the buck/lowest wattage. Although the setup isn’t quite as pretty.

So based on our conversation the other night looks to me like the MJ400 w/ SureFlow is your best bang for the buck/lowest wattage.

Good point! Your right, i think the gph is the same for all MJ using the smaller prop. A 12 will use 4X more power than a 4! The only reason im using the 1200’s is for the flexibility to upgrade to the large prop if needed, however, i doubt that i ever would in my reef. When i get my FOWLR i will probably do just what you said and swap the 12s for 4s in my reef and put the 12s in my FOWLR with the large props.